e-locker rear axle conversion?

I found the responses very helpful. My question was for planning purposes since the truck is still on order; I will not get it for 4 to 5 weeks yet. I will not do anything to the differential until I drive the truck for a while to see if it develops the howling noise. There is no point in jeopardizing a possible warranty claim. But at some point, based on the advice here, I will probably go with an air-locker. I may not have too much use for it, but as was pointed out, a locker can reduce stresses on the drive-train in extreme situations and does make off-roading easier, in general.

 

Jeff, by that same token. Would it be just as easy to do the same with the OR to allow the locker to be used in 4hi, 2wd, etc?

 

probably. There's a bunch of threads in the 2nd gen section I think called the 'grey wire' mod where it just gets hooked to a relay to work at any time. Really not sure if it works for 3rd gens yet.

But for OP wouldn't it just be easier to go the route of an air locker?
Would probably be cheaper, and better.
Find they are a little better since they work to much higher speeds, and aren't as tricky to engage.
Only problem I've found with E lockers is sometimes you have to throw it in neutral and then roll back and forth to get it to engage properly. If you're in a bog you can't always do that. I haven't used e lockers a lot though so maybe I'm just biased or inexperienced with them. Past rigs I've driven with lockers had air lockers all the time.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U1SLSV9wNk

some helpful info
its definitely better to have a locker at times like he says in the video which I have experienced, much better to just slowly creep up stuff, less chance of damage.
not sure if you're thinking of doing it as well but front lockers can be really handy as well.
works great if you're doing rock crawling. But from a personal experience, I was out wheeling with a guy that had a 4runner. He broke a front CV, had he not had the front locker he would've been stuck in 2wd. Once a CV goes the diff is just sending all power to the broken cv, but if you lock up you can get the power to the other wheel. It could really help at times.

 

So question, sorry if this was answered couldn't find a clear one, does a 2017 TRD Sport 4x4 DCSB A/T have an 8.0" diff or the 8.75" rear diff? And is the 8.75 worth swapping it out for?

 

You have an 8", if you had a factory locker or manual trans you would have the 8.75"

I doubt you would need to swap, and if you did swap, I personally wouldn't go with an 8.75" not a lot of aftermarket support at this time.