Audio Dilemma / Blown Sub (SWR-T10)

Hey all, sorry for the long post, but need some advice...

I had a custom audio solution install almost 2 years ago in my 2013 DC consisting of the following:

Kept the stock head unit
(1) Hertz 5 channel amp (HDP5)
(2) 6.5 Components in the Front (SPR-60C)
Kept rear speakers (set head unit fade control to fronts only)
(1) 10" Alpine Type R Shallow (SWR-T10)
(1) Custom enclosure installed behind rear passenger seat (sealed)

All said and done, I was had a very "nice" upgraded audio system with OEM look.

Fast forward to yesterday... I started to hear a rather loud rattling sound. I originally thought it was the sliding window security bar I have up in the window. Tore the back apart today and discovered the rattle is more of a popping sound and it's coming directly from the sub itself. :-(

Took the sub out and couldn't see/find any noticeable damage, but I am no expert by any stretch.

I guess this is my question. Is there any chance the sub is not blown/ruined? I didn't think my amp had enough power to damage this sub? If it is, what options do I have? I could simply replace the sub with the same at about $350. Is there better recommendations? JL Audio or Sundown for example?

I also see a lot of new options now available for ported boxes with (2)10s or perhaps (1)12 or sealed boxes with (2)12s... I did like the sound, but was often looking for more/lower bass. Any better options at this point for my money?

Thanks all!

 

Hi. Sorry to hear about your subwoofer issue. Before throwing out any new money I would double check any wires etc. but earlier I actually read up on alpine and their coils going bad. You can always take it somewhere to get looked at.
I recently acquired a JL 13tw5 from another memeber. He actually has a sundown audio subwoofer.

Here's the link.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sundown-sa-12-in-a-double-cab.466030/

Looks like it's running about $215 for the 12 inch and anywhere from $170-$200 for the 10 from Amazon.

If you go with the 10 probably be a perfect fit (but I would double check the specs and the depth of your box) and I hear great things about sundown. If you go with a 12 you can probably just make the hole bigger in your current box.

You can find a JL 10tw3 woofer alone from Amazon for about $250 and the 12 for about $265

I would replace the sub unless you are looking to get an enclosure for 2 subs. Depends on how deep your pockets go and what you really want. Just tossing out some price ranges and options for you. Keep us updated.

 

Any chance the sub was just loose in the enclosure? Like maybe the screws had come loose? Check the terminals (if you have any) for the same thing? Does the cone feel scratchy when you push straight in on it? Test the coil(s)?

AFAIK the Sundown SD3 is going to give you the best output in a shallow sub and is among the better sounding considering all low-volume (airspace) subs. Of all comparisons I've heard between the JL and Alpine shallow 10s with the SD, the Sundown simply is in another category. I have a 10 and find it a fantastic SQ sub with enough output to get most people through the day. Dayton HO will fit in a similar enclosure and give similar output (maybe more?) as well as great SQ - and it costs less...$200 or so for the Sundown and like $130 for the Dayton.

 

Remove the sub and shake it in the direction of it's movement (up and down). I once had a subwoofer shipped to me with a loose pole piece. It didn't make the sound all the time but it would on harmonic notes. Took me about a week to figure it out. Might be your issue and it might not. But this will tell you if there is anything loose INSIDE the subwoofer or not.

Also check the connection of the cone to the top of the voice coil. Sometimes a coil will get hot enough it doesn't burn out but it may melt away from a plastic cone. Had that happen once too. Your sub has a rather interesting design. If I think of anything I'll let you know. If you can get a video of it playing and making the sound (both inside and outside the enclosure) that would be helpful.

https://images.crutchfieldonline.co...0/1950/products/2010/26/500/g500SWRT10-T.jpeg

 

Thanks for the info guys... I did a real basic check of the sub yesterday when I took it out of the enclosure. I couldn't see any visible damage and all the connections/wires looked solid as well. I did some light pressing/flexing and did not hear anything (no scratchy sound), but it was pretty tight. I don't have anything to compare it with and honestly felt it was normal/appropriate amount of give.

I didn't think to try shaking it upside down or anything, but will definitely give that a shot tomorrow and grab the videos as well. Hopefully the sound can be heard and not just sound like all the crazy distorted bass videos I see all the time.

Still hopeful, but if the SD3 is as good as the review here are reporting, I might be ok with "upgrading". If so, would it be a straight sub swap, or should I take it back to my installer for any tuning/amp changes?

 

I'm sure you can do a swap but I would turn all the gain and settings down and retune it. Sad to say I've always tuned by ear and not with the proper tools but I've never had any issues

 

Don't be ashamed....your ears have the final say anyway. The multimeter, regardless of what it says, should be used ONLY to ensure it SOUNDS good.

 

I have not had a chance to get out side to make my own video, but I was checking out the SD3s online and came across the following video and it is exactly what my sub sounds like:

https://youtu.be/SLxJOPV1uss
and
https://youtu.be/FPA0OCXLBxI

 

Is the sound something that's new or has it always sounded this way?

 

Brand new. Just started 3 days ago (installed 7/2015). Was driving home from airport and noticed the sound and thought it was just some sort of rattle. I have one of the little metal security bars sitting in the slot to keep the rear slider from being opened and thought it was rattling. Just turned it down a bit until I got home (then forgot to check it out). Next day I ran to the store and noticed the rattle again and then checked around and found it was coming right from the actual sub.

 

Those videos are from Zac of All Trades here on the forum. He's thinking the cone separated from the surround or something like that...some warranty issue. Maybe he'll get by here & let you know exactly what it was. Err there's a thread on it here.

On the new sub, you might be able to drop it in. Do you know the airspace of the enclosure? They aren't one-size-fits-all and should be pretty close to what the sub needs. The 10 needs .5 cubic feet interior airspace sealed.

 

I thought he might be a member. I think I saw his setup while researching the SD3s... I don't know the exact airspace. The box was made by a highly reputable audio shop here in the valley and seemed to work pretty good with the SWR-T10 (until this issue). I do know the Alpine also calls for .5 cubic feet. My main concern is the Alpine only requires 3.25" mounting depth while the SA calls for 4.48".

Need to pull the sub still to shake it around upside down and grab some videos, but it rained all day here. I will be doing some measuring while I have it apart again. Still wondering if I should just contact Marv and upgrade to ported box with (2) 10s or maybe (1) 12". Also need to figure out what my amp will manage. Don't want to redo the entire system just to get a little deeper bass and don't think I want to go with Alpine Sub again as it only lasted a little over a year. At least the warranty on the SD3 is 2 years...

 

Ok, maybe a dumb questions, but here goes...

With my Hertz HDP5 amp, it shows the following specs:

Output Power (RMS)
@ 14.4 VDC 5 Ch 70 W x 4 + 380 W x 1 (4Ω)
5 Ch 100 W x 4 + 550 W x 1 (2Ω)
3 Ch 200 W x 2 (4Ω) + 380 W x 1 (4Ω)
3 Ch 200 W x 2 (4Ω) + 550 W x 1 (2Ω)

My SWR-T10 was a single voice coil (4Ω). The SD3 10 is available in (2Ω) and (4Ω). Does anything need to be changed on the amp to get the 550 W x 1 (2Ω) output? Or should I get the SD3 10 in (4Ω) as well? Trying to understand all this, but my gut tells me 550W is better than 380W for subs with RMS in the 500W range.

Also, I measured the current box. Based on two different calculators, I came up with .597 and .569 cubic feet. With the poly, I should be fine right?

 

Box size is fine for what you have right now. If you're intent on getting a new sub, get the 2ohm version. You won't have to change any settings on the amp to have it work with a 2ohm sub. You will have to reset the gain by ear to accommodate for differences in efficiency.

 

Thanks for the confirmation... I am pretty sure my sub is toast. I think the SD3 is the most economical solution ("bang for buck so to speak") at this point if I can use the same box. If it doesn't fit, then I will just reach out to Marv for a custom ported box for the same 10"...

 

Finally had some time to take the sub out and thoroughly inspect it. Found what appears to be separation at one of the 4 connections on the spider. Found this by using gently pressing down and hearing a metallic rattle/bump at this specific spot. Closer look with a flashlight unveiled the problem (very noticeable when compared to the remain 3 connections)

See attached image for location...

I cannot figure out how to disassemble the sub for better access, but was thinking I could just use some Loctite Epoxy to try resealing it?

Thoughts/Recommendations?

 

Warranty? I know folks use E6000 on surrounds, but dunno about spiders.

 

Warranty expired...

 

Loctite bandaid is working for now... Don't expect it to last, so I spoke with Marv to review options. I think I am going to move up to the 12TW3 with a new enclosure.

I am torn on ported vs sealed. Marv felt the ported enclosure would leave me needing additional mid bass for fill which makes sense. Just not sure if I will notice much of an "upgrade" going from the SWR-T10 to the 12TW3 if I put it back into another sealed enclosure...

Anyone happen to have the SPR-60Cs in the front with a ported 12"?