Solar Panel deal at SolarBLVD

On sale for $119 normally $276
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_269&products_id=3082

Flex panels are less susceptible to damage than hard glass if you are looking for something for an off road setup.

Solar Cynergy 120 Watt 12 Volt semi-flexible solar panel has an impermeable lamination coats the entire module, allowing it to contour and flex against curved areas, eliminating any need for custom mounts. The panel can be affixed by adhesive stick or glue mounting ease of installation. The thin, lightweight module can also be affixed to or sewn into canvas, including bimini tops.

Ideal for RV boat or tight spaces or crowded areas that are typically off limits for traditional glass and aluminum models. Suitable for marine use: the laminate coating on the exterior of the panel makes it impervious to saltwater splashing, rain, and other weather elements. Completely waterproof Junction box. sealed and waterproof junction box makes it waterproof for rain splashing. Light weight 82 % lighter than aluminum glass solar modules Durable surface is less than 1/8" / 2.5mm thick Quick Connectors: 1.4 meters of flex fitted with S-S connectors for quick and easy set up. 20 year limited warranty. Grommets included.

 

Just starting to look into a system to tie into a dual battery set up... to power fridge/freezer, site lighting, or more eventually...

Not sure if the systems have to be isolated or can be tandem feed, or if a dual battery system would be necessary if solar system yields enough power...

The kit links aren't working on this site... thoughts?

 

You don't run on solar, you charge the batteries and run on them, you can do both at once but takes longer to charge for nighttime use if you are looking for that. I have a dual battery setup for my teardrop. I use a switch so I can run on either or both. I then added connectors so I can charge either or both batteries with solar. My thought was, since the Norcold refrig/freezer is a power hog (will buy an ARB when it dies) that I wanted to have one battery fully charged when we went to bed - TV/Stereo, frig, light, fan all available. I have an 80 watt ZAmp portable, it is good enough but wish I had the money for 120 watt unit but got really good $150 off deal so some power verses none. Have a generator now so not as important as it once was. Before I got it I had planned on using the flex panels but ran out of money, they were a lot more back then, so it got put off. I will be adding them when I can.
80 watts will take a half charged type 24 up to full in about 4 hours in good light, strong light in 3. Only better part of the portable is you can be in shade and move it out 45 feet into sun, bad thing is getting up to move it every few hours.

A lot of good info http://forum.solar-electric.com/categories and here http://www.freesunpower.com/chargecontrollers.php

Hope that helps.

 

@2015whitetaco

@Porter707

 

Oh yeah forgot. There are controllers that have battery connections for two batteries, they will independently charge and monitor the battery to prevent overcharging and will equalize them, the free sun power site has a design tool for all of that.

 

Link doesn't work for me

 

Interested but the sites dead

 

Looks like the site is down right now.
www.solarblvd.com

EDIT - update, Amazon cloud services are down taking a whole bunch of websites with it...

Someday, somewhere, someone is going to dig a hole and every phone in the US is going to ring once and die.

 

I just heard about that a few hours ago.

 

Womp womp.

 

Good info about OTHER options here:

https://americanadventurist.com/forum/threads/solar.4487/

https://americanadventurist.com/forum/threads/renogy-solar-100-watt-suitcase-system.3776/

Opting for a ALL-IN-ONE set up now... with room to grow: https://www.renogy.com/renogy-200-w...er-kit-w-mppt-charge-controller/#tab_prd-desc

Plus an inverter, of course

 

I have the 100watt Renogy glass panel and am happy with it.

 

Was looking at this one 100w at 179$ for the roof of my shell, this 120w one mentioned in this thread at 119$ seems interesting hopefully their site comes back up

Add a cheap non mppt Chinese controller and some wire/connexion and one could have a solar setup for under 160$

SUAOKI 100W 18V 12V Solar Panel Charger SunPower Cell Ultra Thin Flexible with MC4 Connector Charging for RV Boat Cabin Tent Car(Compatibility with 18V and Below Devices)

https://www.amazon.com/SunPower-Fle...88333678&sr=8-1&keywords=flexible+solar+panel

 

For anyone looking at putting a flexible solar panel in their roof or shell, here is one members experience so far.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/solar-panel-install.472522/

 

I found a suggestion to add a relay to only allow the panel to charge the battery at peak hours, this is the cut and paste

people say this unit will discharge the battery... I have found that solar panels without inline diodes connected to this unit it will discharge the battery. That said, I recommend to put an inline diode to your panels before using this controller. In addition, these is the way I installed this controller and it has been working great on my 12vdc 40Ah system. This controller will charge a 12vdc up to 10A system ; in other words, the AH don't count, just make sure you do not exceed the current (10); there fore, you will need a 5 to 20Watt solar panel no more than 10 amps because this is the rated capacity of the controller. The manual says it can handle solar panel input from 10 to 50 volts but no more than 10 to 20 Amps. Personally, I am using a 20 watt solar panel, reverse diode protection, and inline diodes in order to feed this controller. I did it to protect the panel and to prevent discharging. Keep in mind, this controller as many other controllers have to be counted as part of your load and you will need to decide if is good to keep it 24/7 connected to your battery or run the charging only during pick time. Here is a way around to make it beneficial for any system: I connected a 24vdc relay straight to my solar panel which is rated at 12 to 21vdc open voltage. Every time the relay gets energized, it will become normally close; next, you will get the red wire - the one connected the relay coil and you will make a jumper to the normal closed relay contact. In addition, the output of the normal closed contact will be jumper with red wire heading straight to the input of this controller. Finally, the system will work under this conditions: As long as your solar panel receives direct sunlight, It will energized the relay, It will send open current to the controller, charge controller will do its job as normal, at night - relay will turn normal open, it will shut the controller down, and finally - battery will not drain at night. Please, practice this schematic in every system you build because many controllers will do the same one way or another. For example, I have seen some controllers that will have true disconnect load but the controllers have LED`s running all night long monitoring load and the battery conditions. Short story, is much better having a relay upfront to prevent low battery. I am using 12vdc diodes for solar rated from .6 to 20A - this way - I don't get any drop from my panel and consider this as reverse current protection. I have to say, you can use single pole double throw relays in the same manner in order to automatically disconnect the controller from the solar and the controller from the battery. Please read this as many time as you need. I should be very straight forward. thanks. I am just a customer and it works , I love the timer feature.

 

A good controller will detect sunlight and disconnect. I mean it's a giant solar detector so it's not hard to have it know.

 

Flexible panels aren't necessary for offroading lol.


*not me under the truck*

 

I think the idea was to reduce parasitic drain from the controller itself, from led lights etc... but I dunno alot about solar and 12v stuff so could be wrong

 

I'm using a Blue Solar Victron 15/75 MPPT charge controller for my solar setup. From what i understand, once input from the solar is lower than battery voltage, it shuts off into standby mode. After that, it needs a specific amount of voltage over battery to turn back on. I believe mine is battery voltage +4 volts.