Greases ?

So I have been searching throughout the day for what type of grease is best to be used on my new light racing spc upper control arms as well as my drive shaft what do you guys recommend?

 

White lithium

 

Green Grease, full synthetic for nearly all applications--it's all I have used for years. You can get it at most FLAPS...

 

What is flaps ?

 

No, and NO.

Literally just called them last week with this question. SPC recommends "NLGi #2, Grade LB with 3%-5% Molybdenum Disulfide grease" for use on their bushings and ball joints, and that will work great with your U joints as well.

Valvoline part numbers

$6 VV633 Valvoline Multi-Vehicle Moly-Fortified Gray Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

VV633 or VV632
Stalube part numbers

$14 SL3330 Moly-Graph Extreme Pressure Multi-Purpose Lithium Grease - 14 Oz.

SL3330 or SL3141

 

Grease for these trucks has to be

NLGi 2 (how thick and sticky it is, resistant to flinging off)

Lithium based soap (Most greases are mixtures of an oil and a soap. The soap is dispersed into the oil to form a stable, viscous gel that is called a grease. Grease made with lithium soap ("lithium grease") adheres particularly well to metal, is non-corrosive, may be used under heavy loads, and exhibits good temperature tolerance

and should have Molybdenum disulfide for non-bearing, sliding metal surfaces like slip joints, arms, or other metal/metal contact where
there are no roller bearings, and Moly 'can be used' on bearings such as ujoints. moly is like graphite...it fills the microscopic
pits on metal and allows it to slide/shear easily against itself instead of shrearing off the metal (slip joints for example)
in a ujoint the roller bearings rock back and forth on the same spot
instead of a full circle and moly helps if one or more bearings decides to drag

so, nlgi 2 lithium based w/ moly is pretty much the standard and can be used everywhere

 

Mobilgrease XHP™ 460 Series

 

Spot on

 

http://lucasoil.com/products/grease/red-n-tacky-grease

Been using this for years on driveline components. Always had great results. I had a Jeep with high driveline angels and it ate u-joints. I always found better life expectancy using this.

We use the same thing at work in a high speed, high coolant / moisture environment and it performs much better than conventional EP grease at resisting water intrusion. We see many failures based solely on coolant contamination and lubrication breakdown. We spec red and tacky specifically for the worst conditions that experience water based lubrication breakdown.

Many greases are paraffin based oil stocks and can cook out the solvents leaving waxy residue which can plug the joint passages resuiting in failure down the road because when greasing them some passages won't allow grease to flow through them. I have never seen this happen with r&t. I can't remember if it is synthetic.

 

I'm sorry, Favourite Local Auto Parts Store.

As to using Green Grease do as you see fit--as I said I have used it for years (over 20) in everything from backhoes and dozers to cars, trucks, motorcycles, marine drives, lawn tractors and anything else requiring extreme pressure, high temperature resistant, high quality grease. And will continue to use it for another 20 if I make it...

 

while i love red n tacky for bearings (I use it in my u joints, wheel bearings, dirtbike bearings of all kinds). For bushings the molygraph is going to be better.

 

Molybdenum disulfide also attracts water to form sulfuric acid. The only place on the truck that benefits from molybdenum disulfide is the slip joint on the rear driveshaft. Just use NLGI No. 2 with no moly in U-joints, aftermarket ball joints, and urethane bushings.

 

Red-N-Tacky fo' life.

 

Red and Tacky is what I use for u joints.

 

Im down with CV2

 

I use the Lucas Marine Grease. I keep one grease in one gun and use it for everything.

 

I just switched to this stuff. Comes highly recommended.