Wheel studs are too short! What to do....

Driving on work hardened, stretched, and braking studs makes this possible. Only 2 left on the axle to hold the wheel on and limping in on those can create crazy situations that require drastic measures.

We used to get really well hardened factory studs,,not so much any more.

 

once you get into that situation the studs will likely not be aligned well, so when the nuts are torq'd down you'll get odd forces which compounds the problem. if 580 knurls are fitting into 559 knurled holes then it's time to replace the hubs?

edit: if the shoulder is of correct dimension it should hold the stud in center bore, but i think shoulder dia usually varies with knurl dia, i need to check the XLS that Dorman site has.

 

I bought a set of ion alloys and they barley hit the caliper. So I bought .25 wheel spacers (4 of them because I want all 4 wheels to match) to eliminate this problem. I also purchased the gorilla et lug nuts for the extra grip. They extend the lug nut is .25 inches longer and takes the bottom of the nut flush with the back of the wheel. However I have since found that gorilla also makes a XL ET lug nut that is .50 inches longer. Meaning that this would make the lug nut flush with the back of the wheel spacer.

Gorilla ETXL link:
http://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/gor-21133etxl/reviews/?ibanner=MobileSwitchNo

So I don't want to install new studs. But I am concerned that if I have the XL (.50) extended thread lug nuts. That I would bottom out on the face of the rotor and not be able to truly torque down the lug nuts all the way.

 

One other thing to consider, if you're using unique wheels (as I am), I could not find lug nuts to fit the wheels so I HAD to extend the lugs. In your case (EvilElf), consider that if you are using unique wheels and your going to extend the lugs, can you tighten the lugs using your spare tire? I could not so in my post I explain why I shortened them up just a tad. Enough to provide adequate threads for my wheels, but also able to seat the lug nut when using the spare.

 

I'll just carry a set of the stock lug nuts in my glove box in case I need to use my spare. I'm not planning on installing extended studs. I plan on using extended lug nuts. Thank you for your opinion but this doesn't really help me any.

 

These worked fine with my Method Wheels...

24 Premium DPAccessories Black Closed-End Spline Drive ET Style Wheel/Lug Nuts (M12x1.5 Thread) 1.57" Tall

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ROTVZ2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Do y'all think that I need extended studs

 

Yea, I would definitely get them. Looks like you barely have a few threads of engagement. Best way to check is to bolt down 3 nuts in a triangle pattern, then see how many full (360) turns you get out of the 4th nut. If it's less than 8-9 turns you'll want new studs.

 

I just got extended thread lig nuts and they tighten down all the way

 

did you get / use gorilla 68138?

 

Idk i just whent to a aftermarket wheel and tire shop and asked fo extended thread lug nuts and they gave ne some that worked

 

Extended length lug nuts didn't work. Anyone running Matrix studs front and rear? mine are too short all the way around.

 

Wow! Huge hats off to KPT and Hunt4Steve, the research was spot on! I put 285s on my '14 and had barely 1/4 between the UCAs and tires with my 2" EMU kit. I really wanted to keep the stock rims and stance, and didn't want to put any jankey bolt to bolt spacers which only come in about 1", I just don't trust something that is bolted to something else that is bolted to your axle. I started some minor research when I found this thread.

ABSOLUTELY SPOT ON! I only wanted to do 1/2" spacing so I found some Baer Billet spacers from Summit. They were beautiful EXCEPT, they nor anyone else make a center diameter of 106mm+ for a Toyota, so I took them to a local metal shop and they lathed them out perfectly. I took them to 108mm and that was the right choice as 106mm would have been too precise.

I ordered the Dorman lugs from Summit as well, except they only came in a bog of 10, so I got a few extra from Orileys. They were about 20 cents more each at Orileys.

The installation is pretty easy, except I had to drill a hole through the rotor shroud between the caliper bolt area, as the longer lugs were to long to go in between the shroud and lug flange. The originals fit out no problem with a little smack from a hammer. I had to build a spacer stack to draw the new knurl through the flange with my impact, don't know if that was the correct way but that's what I had. However I still had to do the last part manually as the Dewalt impact didn't have enough torque. After that it was simply a matter of putting it all back together. I definitely agree this is the stronger way to go. The billet spacer is rock solid dense material and with a six lug and only 1/2" of spacing I can't imagine being able to put enough load to leverage anything to a braking point. Finally I'll not as Hunt4Steve's research showed, the Dorman lugs he finally went with, left exactly the factory amount of lug hanging out of the rim for the nuts to purchase.

Note: The spacers on the axle are two, 1/4" spacers from Autozone I used temporary for a few weeks, they are jankey as fuck and I was terrified driving with them, I'm fairly sure they were cast aluminum, I only ran them 1/4" on each side. In the picture I'm using them as spacers to pull the lugs through, that's about all they're good for.

The modified Baer spacers are on the ground side by side.

 

UPDATE.......I'm an idiot. So in doing the passenger side it was the first time, and it was almost dark and it was very cold outside. Those work condition make for mistakes.

I did the drivers side in about 15min today with my Dewalt 1/2" impact on one full charge of the battery.

YOU DON'T HAVE TO DRILL A HOLE IN THE BRAKE SHROUD. Simply put the longer lugs in at the bottom position where there is more room. A 1/2" socket will let you draw them through the lug flange. Dun and Dun, I would say I even gained about 1/8" of lug in the lug nut from stock.

I now have about 1.5" of space between the STOCK UCAs and 285/75/16s. Very pleased!

 

I just bought the 2.3" APR studs for a Celica. Does anyone know where we can find 1/4 inch hubcentric spacers for our trucks?

 

Urban, I bought Baer Billet aluminum ones from Summit, then took them to a metal shop to have them milled out to a center of 108mm. They only come about 94mm ID for Chevrolet 6 bolt. The bolt pattern is the same just a different hub diameter. Cost me $100 for both at a shop. I did 1/2", using the specs previous by the other user who did all the research, the lugs I purchased were spot on! BTW, the new longer ones will only go back in through the bottom 6pm position.

 

BTW, in my pictures above I have about 1" of clearance running a 2" EMU lift and 285/75 16 Duratracks and thats with the 1/2" spacer. I ran 1/4" before, but it still rubbed just slightly on the front UCA. I get no rub now, even on the body where many have claimed. I also didn't do the rear, and I'm glad! 1 it looks kinda Kool having the front wider, and 2 more importantly, I just clear my fenders on the rear without. Front clearance seems to be OK too from what I've seen so far.

 

I have the hubs and shafts completely off the car right now but thanks for the heads up.

 

I am thinking about doing this I am just barely touching my jba uca at full lock, thinking of going with the same 1/4 spacer from summit

 

Do the 1/2" Baer Billet Aluminum. I tried one of those jankey 1/4" from AutoZone and it still rubbed on the frame on the cab side. Also I'm not sure what summit ones you're looking at but a lot of the 1/4" are Cast pot metal, and absolute shit. When you feel the quality of the BAER Billet ones you'll know you won't have issues bombing down the dirt road. Just follow the instructions the previous guy posted about studs. He needed to add some on because his rim depth was thicker, I needed more for the 1/2" spacers so our measurements came to the same length.