lubrication points 2016 Tacoma TRD sport 4x4 ??

Nothing to add other than definately grease em. One of the biggest differences ive noticed in how my truck drives. Pretty obvious when you see how dry they were prior to greasing. My dealer hates doing it and borderline refuses. But it isnt super trick to do yourself apart from the front shaft has a heat shield in the way but a good coupler will take care of that issue

 

Ok I'll check out the Mobil 1 and other NHLI-2 grease. I have a great grease gun with long flexible hose for access. Appreciate the feedback. Dannyblues

 

The front 2 are a bitch to get to, you will see when you get under there, the flex hose helps but is not the issue. I ended up grinding the head of the fitting down in order to fit it in there.

 

Wow! I'm bringing it to the dealer tomorrow as my recent flat tire was bad; giant spike that ripped even the outer tread away.

Thanks for you knowledgeable post. Dannyblues

 

Really that's something I never knew. I only use Toyota 0-20 and Toyota filter in mine thus far. 11,200 with oil only change at 2500. Dealership accidentally changed again with filter at 3,000 and again same at 5,500 then again at 10,200 all free except my first oil only change. I plan to change oil and filter every 5,000 miles or three times a year. I know it maybe too often but I'm old and 10,000 just seems too long unless you are doing a lot of annual mileage on the highway. Dannyblues

 

Definitely need to pull that little shield/guard off for good access.

 

Just had dealer replace my damaged flat tire: Firestone destination LE 265/65-17. Was only $139 for the new OEM replacement. While there I asked them to check the driveshaft and universal joints and to apply the correct grease while purging any assembly lube that may have been an inappropriate lubricant. I have now 11,300 miles on my 2016 TRD 4x4 double cab six speed manual.

The mechanic said he found three grease fittings on the driveshaft and two others that were permanently sealed. Since for insurance reasons, they say, I wasn't allowed into the shop to observe myself. This summer I'll crawl under and check it myself

By the way the new OEM Firestone tire was surprisingly only $139. I used to run Continental DWS tires on my former rice burners and they were always about $200 plus each.

I appreciate all the advice I've received on this thread. I learn a lot and have the dealership foreman in tears when I arrive with all the correct information even he doesn't know--- but should. Dannyblues

 

I've never done this before, but intrigued since some people say there is no grease coming out. Can somebody post a picture of where you can find these zerks? And where am I looking for the grease to come out. Also can somebody point out what is the propeller shaft boot, I know that since the 2nd gens its always part of the regular maintaice to re-torque the boot and lubricate the propeller shaft, which I assume is those zerks that everyone here is talking about.

 

Try this..... Splitbolt took some nice pics to show you the zerks...!!

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-your-u-joints.409042/

 

This driveshaft or propeller shaft as it's called in the owners manual is intriguing. I've read so many posts on it. Personally I haven't crawled under my Tacoma yet but the Toyota shop guys told me my driveshaft had three zerks they lubed on one end of the driveshaft but the two on the other were sealed.

On another post a gentleman who seemed to know what he was talking about said the early 2016 tacoma driveshafts were assembled and sent out with only an inferior assembly lube. The manual states your first lube is at 15,000 miles so it sounds possible any of us may have insufficient lube on the driveshaft

Also posted was some tacomas have 5 zerks, some 3 and finally some none as they are supposed to be lubed for life ( which as stated was probably when your warranty runs out ).

I just had my driveshaft lubed first time at about 11,300 at the dealer no charge.

I plan to get under the truck when it warms up and check it out myself. I've read there are two zerks that are difficult to access

May I ask a stupid question here? I'm a bit embarrassed but this is the first truck and first 4 x4 I've ever owned. Are there two driveshafts???? One for the rear wheels and one for the front wheels??? And zerk fittings on both sides of each I I'd expect.

As I said the shop mechanic said he lubed three fittings on my driveshaft as the other two were factory sealed. Toyotas shop policy they say for insurance reasons is not to let customers into the work bay area so I haven't been under the truck myself.

My auto experience is pretty good though most of it from prehistoric times and I feel foolish for asking the question above so please go easy on me and don't mock an ignorant individual in this one case. At 67 I'm still learning. Dannyblues

 

I have a feeling you have 5 Zerks and they guy just skipped the 2 in the front.

 

I have the gut feeling you are correct. I've heard there are two zerks that are difficult to access so maybe the shop mechanic skipped them then told me they were factory sealed. Thanks. Dannyblues

 

That is exactly my thinking, he did not want to mess around with the front 2.

 

Thank you, that cleared it up, so apparently mine might not have the rear zerks which is why I was scratching my head when I looked under my truck tonight. So the propeller shaft boot is the rubber piece, why does it say re-torque then, shouldn't the terminology be just inspect as you would with any other boots.

 

Thanks very much. I went online and researched how a part time hi-low four wheel drive works. Now I get it. However for illustration purposes the engineer describing 4 WD showed a chain rather than gears in the transfer case to drive the front driveshaft. Does the 2016 use a chain or gearing in the transfer case??? I know there is a front drive output gear and input gear but what connects them, chain or other gear.

Sometimes I think I should buy the original shop manual to learn all this stuff but today's vehicles are so hard to work on it's no longer any fun. I'd only really use the manual for reference; not anticipating actually doing much of the work myself. I'm too old and beat up. Not complaining. It's the result of a great life. But I'm paying for it now. Dannyblues

 

Sorry OP for goin off topic, but i got to ask Vbpiper.

Does that Lock and Lube really work? I greased my rear zerks over the winter, but could not for the life of me get the front ones on my 2013. When i was finally able to jam my standard coupler on one, it wouldn't seat correctly, so i couldnt get any grease in. It just shot out all around the sides. So after fighting with something, that should have been a damn 10 minute process, i cussed the zerk and then began the process to pull my coupler off. No matter how much i loosened it, it did not want to let go of the damn zerk! I had to resort to prying it off and was lucky not to break it. I even went and bought what i thought was a better coupler and it was pretty much the same results.

So i gotta know, did that LockNLube really go on and off easily? $30 is a pretty price to pay for a coupler. Thanks

 

I had that same problem getting my coupler on up at the front, ended up grinding some material off the coupler and now it goes on easily, just tried it about an hour ago.

 

Same here. I'm definitely lazy, I may just bite the bullet and give it a try. Funny thing is, after fighting that damn thing months ago, I looked at this coupler on Amazon. I'll report back at some point, on my success or lack there of.

Now back to the 2nd forums where I belong, lol.

 

Maybe a family of chipmunks on a treadmill runs the transfer case drive? Who knows ? Dannyblues