Prinsu Access Cab Install

A guy in another thread said, the sold out and removed it from the page.

Can't find it anymore either.

They had a big sale right before Christmas, got the bar for dirt cheap!

 

Figures, my luck.

 

I want to go single row too, my eBay dual row in my grill has withstood the a lot and it's still great, very impressed actually. If I could afford and justify the price of a KC I would get one of those, or rigid but all those cost more than the damn rack.
I'll probably go middle range for my roof mount

Another question or opinion:

I have a dual row in my grill(bpfab grill)
And ditch light pods that I won from Relentless Fab.
I'm wondering if I should run just grill and roof
Or go grill, ditch, roof... I'm wondering if that is over kill and super "bro"

I do use my light bars often for hunting, fishing, adventures, and going out to Milky Way photos so they aren't just for looks haha

 

I would try to send them an email and see what the status is. They might get it back in stock soon.

So far, Auxbeam is easy to work with.

 

Do you have any front shots of that light bar?
Do you know the model # of that light so I can email them?
Thanks.

 

That is the only shot I have at this point unfortunately. I could take more tomorrow if you want.

The model number is 70019700

 

Light output is pretty decent actually (imho):

 

sub'd

 

I got really good with Rivnuts when building my Rock Buggy. I bought the tool and Rivnuts off Amazon. They appear much better than what is supplied.



I also did destructive testing with grade 5 and grade 8 bolts. Grade 5 snapped very easily. Grade 8 wouldn't break, and they would strip the Rivnut, but guess what, the bolt could still be backed out, and even reinstalled over and over again and still hold tight even though the nut was stripped. The Rivnuts never spun either. I used them everywhere.



Rivnuts for days.

 

Can't beat the Astro tool for install. We used one after dealing with the clumsy DIY method and it was faster and provided better crimps. A worthy investment if you plan on using it often. For someone that only plans on installing the rack, it may not be worth it as a one-time use specialized tool but will make your life easier.

 

Where did guys with lights mounted up there run the wires to the roof? I'm putting some pods and some side facing work lights on the rack, and need to get 3 lines of probably 16 gauge wire up there for the two circuits.

 

@dustin19d came up with a neat solution here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/prinsu-access-cab-install.422290/page-6#post-13723847

You already drilled into the roof so what's one more hole? Probably the cleanest version I've seen.
If you don't want to go that route, you can wire loom everything together and run the bundle down the a pillar at the windshield. When I had my roof rack, I used double sided tape to attach plastic clips to the glass right at the moulding. It was tucked to the side really cleanly and held for the year and a half they were there. I suppose the zip tie stickies would work the same but are a bit unsightly.

 

Interesting, thanks.

I'm still debating on where to run some of the wires, since one will be coming off a relay that's under the hood and otherwise controlling stuff that's in the bed so I hadn't planned on running it back into the cab. The other could come from the cab, but I'd need to stuff the relay up in the headliner somewhere since the switch will be in the overhead console.

Does anyone know of any kind of stick-on outdoor conduit that I could run up the back of the cab?

 

So the black "rain gutter" filler piece, not exactly sure what its called, is never reinstalled?

 

You can reinstall it if you choose to. It's called a roof drip rail molding. All it does is cover the gap of the drip rail for more aesthetic appeal. IMO, once the Prinsu rack is on there, it covers the drip rail enough where it would be a minor visual difference compared to the work to install it:
You have to punch holes in the rubber (using the punches shown below in "products discussed in this thread" will give you the cleanest results) to allow the rack's spacers to fit through and sit on the cab roof. Also, there is a steel band buried in the rubber on the underside of the molding which will need to be cut out as well. Wire cutters or cutoff wheel will work for this. Sounds easy, but I guarantee you'll be huffing and puffing by the time you're done. All of this before you install the rack itself, but after the nutserts and silicone. Up to you and your personal preference. On my personal truck, I removed the moldings when I installed my roof rack. I've built and sold 2 other racks since then and am currently "rackless", but have not reinstalled the molding because it doesn't bother me.

 

Ok thanks @GHOST SHIP

 

@DaveEli did you ever get this installed? or sold it?

Ill be attempting the install soon. Mine will be delivered on Monday.

 

Still have it, waiting for some nice non-pollen falling weather to install it. Already tried it once, didn't work out cause of the airbags. Got longer side rails now, I'm good to go. Take out the headliner, that way you can see what the hell you are drilling into. And you can Dynamat the roof while you are at it. Only adds about hour and a half to the install. It's worth it. You going to punch holes in the weather stripping?

 

I will by Dynamatting the roof.

I was going to copy @GHOST SHIP and remove the weather stripping, since its just a covering?

 

It turned out hella good bro!! made me cringe seeing the drill going into the cab. im too scared to do mine