Disassembly help!!!

I'm trying to pull the rear axle shafts and can't seem to get the bearing plates to separate from the end of the axle housing. Was thinking of renting a slide hammer and attaching it to the hub but worried I'll pull the shaft from the bearing or damage the bearing. Thoughts?

Also, I have unbolted the rear alignment bolts on the lower control arms but can't seem to get them to slide out on either side... the back one only. Am I missing something?

Much appreciated!

 

The LCA bolts are likely seized. It's a common problem.

 

Can you ice the axle and heat the bearing plate?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJE35juQWM8

 

Sorry, don't know how my answer became part of your quote but it's in there.

 

Confused? Lower control arms on rear axle housing? Pictures would help. However, if you are on the straight axle rear then unbolt the brake line or recommended to remove the brake line all together. I personally did not remove the line from the drum but you will need to unbolt the hard line from the axle housing in order to bend it a little and remove the rear axle enough to pull out the third member. Not sure if this helps but it is hard to tell exactly where you are having issue. If you are talking about the front CVs then rotate them 1/8 of a turn and pull at each point and the internal c clips will eventually be in the right position to separate from the front diff housing.

 

I have seen the video above @gearcruncher. This still does not show any technique for the part that is giving me trouble. He just pulls the drum brake backing and the axle shaft comes right out. I cannot separate the bearing retainer from the end of the axle tube.

 

I have been able to remove the nut that holds the bolt in and I can even turn the bolt a little, although not too much because of the alignment plate and tabs. It is like it is stuck in the bushing or something because I just cannot get it to back out?

 

What you are missing is grease. You can thank the parts guy at toyota for this when you buy your new lca(s) and hardware. Proper tool for disassembly is a sawzall. When replacing avoid the moog brand bushings, they have proven to be problematic.

 

^^This

The MOOG bolts have proven to suck too.

Replace with OEM parts.

 

I am a little confused as well . In my above post , I posted a u tube link to rear axle repair as the way it was explained in the OP,s post I assumed he was working on the rear axle .
I agree with the above posters . The OP,s bolts are seized
Here is a video of lower control arm replacement on the " FRONT END " of a Toyota Tacoma
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wh_qqCTeaE

 

I am having two distinct problems, one in front and one in rear.

I figured I am going to have to cut the alignment bolts. Does seized basically mean the bolt if fused to the front alignment tab so you can't turn it without turning the whole aliment plate/washer thing? because that's what I have going on and I also can't back it out, even with a BFH. I guess I will add new OEM bolts to my order of other stuff from the dealer. The bracket where the parking brake cable goes into the back of the drum exploded when I tried to undo it because it was pretty rusty and I stripped a brake line.

Oh, I'm not even replacing the control arm, just wanted to install poly bushing to make every noice and toit. Procedure is still the same obviously, just telling y'all what I'm up to.

I still haven't managed to get the shafts out of the rear axle. I guess I will try the slide hammer bolted up to the hub tomorrow because nothing has happened on it yet and it really needs to... unless someone can advise better? I haven't been able to find any video or instruction where the person has to do more than pull a bit.

Hopfully this clears up that I am having two distinct issues.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...s-greasable-pins-and-bush-kit-2005-17.458013/

 

My problem in the rear is the bearing flange is rust welded to the axle tube or something and I just can't break it lose.

 

I just rented a slide hammer from advanced auto parts and made peace with the fact that I would destroy the bearings.

 

so what was the result?

 

Bought about 600 bucks in new bearing's and used a sawzaw on the alignment bolts.