Revtek 3" / 1.5" AAL Lift Kit

Just to clarify you want me to measure from bottom of tire to inside top of the fender well or to the outside "bottom" of fender flare? Usually the best method is to measure from Hub (center of wheel) to the bottom of the fender flare. I can do this in a couple of hours for you.

 

I think that'll work better. I meant the bottom of the fender flare. I'll go check mine in a bit too...I WFH half the time.

 

I think I did it right...got 22.5" from middle of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare, but I was on a hill.

 

My account has been fubar...something with TW not being able to send me emails. I think I found a work-around in the meantime so I can post again. My apologies.

Anyhow the front is about 22.75" from hub to bottom of fender flare. Rear is 23.75"

 

No worries, and you're at 1.5" front? I'll remeasure mine when I'm on a completely flat surface...

 

1.56" is what the 6112 install chart says for my notch settings (4th on pax side, 5th on drivers) they've already slightly settled in just a few days of driving because when I very first put them on the truck was sitting about dead level, now I feel like it's getting back to where the factory rake was....which is how I want it.

 

@effin_guido1226 truck is all done if you want to see it

 

Rake looks too high in front for my tastes but What is this combo?

 

Bilstein 5100s OME 888 springs adds leaf in the rear. Just installed yesterday so it'll settle after a while. Should level out

 

Smitty I have to say the POS you drive looks pretty good as far as height goes and I hope the ride does what you need it to. Watching your results with high interest as I might consider doing the same.

I want to keep the factory rake but with the superior longbed configuration and additional weight of a loaded toolbox in the bed, I'm worried the 3 leaf progressive pack might drop below the 1.5 inches in the rear leaving me nose high. No interest in a leveled truck and two inches is as high as I'm considering for the higher rear end.

Let me know how it goes and if you have any additional settling over time.

Take care

 

Oh, BTW you're supposed to put that pretty wife of yours in any of the pics you take of your truck, pointing out mods, height changes... things like that.

Maybe in revealing poses or something, you know truck stuff....

Think about that for your pics in the future.

 

This looks sharp.

I have 4/3 notch and i like the front. I went with a deaver aal and left the overload and I now want to remove it. Its too stiff. I miss the way it drove without the aal. Next I am going to call deaver and have them make me a pack for the truck and just get rid of my oem leaf pack.


I was thinking sumo or airbags. I have a compressor so air bags would be great when I need them... just more ish to break

 

Sumo have been known to stiffen the ride. I'd probably go airbags and just air them down to 5psi when not needed.

 

ok, My overload is out.... but now my rake looks off. The ride is better though and smooth in the city. I screwed up my alignment just messing around with the rear.

I need to figure out which settings I want before I keep taking it in for an alignment

 

Your axle off center? If you didn't tighten the ubolts equally it can throw it off

 

it was prob off center before and they did the alignment to compensate and now its better and I tried to make sure they were evenly tightened and looked straight.

What did you do with the bracket that bolts to the overload spring? I zip tied it up for now but I think I need to remove it

 

Took it out. You mean the one attached to the bottom of the O/L leaf? Take a photo and show us

Or are you talking about the brake line bracket

 

Brake line bracket that bolts to the leaf.

 

Oh! This has been the subject of much debate. I zip tied it to one of the leaf brackets. You don't want that line to get kinked.

@GPsevinSixx really deserves the credit here by the way.

He taught me a ton. Here are pics. Not sure this is the best method or not but it seems to put it back close enough to where it was from factory, location-wise. Definitely need to keep an eye on it.

 

Make sure not to kink the cable during the install. You may end up having to flip the silver bracket to attach it to the clamp. ICON guys told me they just bolt it right back up to the clamp bolt, which will cause it to kink badly. This will actually put strain on the inside cable and take up slack causing dragging of your rear brake shoes, and if your parking brake isn't properly adjusted, you'll end up with stuck or glazed brake shoes! While a zip tie isn't the best way to do it, it will work for awhile. I may end up fabricating a bracket or extension later to reattach if the zip tie fails prematurely on mine.

Those guys lost credibility with me after telling me to do that after giving them a call over the phone. They say they have never had an issue doing it this way.... LOL