Just getting started

Okiedokie, I'm gonna jump straight on in here. So, I've been reading a lot on here lately about all these awesome Taco's that people are building and I want to start on my own. The first thing I wanted to do was, of course, a lift. I read many threads on lift kits which of course let me to a slew of other threads on clearance issues, CV joints binding ext. So what I'm asking here is in your humble opinion what is the best options for a 2.5 inch lift without breaking the bank. Please and thank you!
Ps. Picture for your viewing pleasure!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ntrol-arms-and-suspension-mega-thread.364484/

 

If u need more help may want to reach out to @Blackout14 @Subway4X4

 

Thanks for the advice

 

I read quite a bit and a lot of people were leaning toward bilstein 5100? I'm just worried about using them with the stock coils and only having an inch of down travel

 

Maybe look in the 1st Gen forums

 

Yeah I've seen some pretty awesome build on a lot of the threads, but some of them are a few years old now. Just trying to get some fresh ideas

 

almost looks like you are sitting on a lift of some sort in that pic.
Im sitting on an Old Man Emu 2.5-3" with 881 coils, a single toytec aal, and total chaos Upper control arms. I paid about $1700 for the whole lift. If I were to do it again Id have gotten any progressive aal or a whole leaf pack since the rear ride is noticeably worse than the front because of the single aal. If you are carrying heavy loads often a single aal wouldn't be the best choice.
There are lots of opinions and writeups on different lifts, but this is just based on what I have and experienced. Old Man Emu is a lot of peoples starting kit, its inexpensive and reliable.

Ive heard some good things about bilsteins but don't know much about them. my ride is kinda rough but you get used to it pretty quick. as far as clearance and all that, you're going to want control arms somewhere down the line if you are going above ~2" for extra travel and to fix your alignment. Mine are uniball but SPC has a set with traditional ball joints, I chose to go with the uniball TC arms at the last minute because i was reading a lot of stories about how its a nightmare dealing with SPC and alignment but Id recommend doing your own research. As far as I know and with my experience, extended brake lines aren't necessary, the rear line gets a bit taut so you might want a rear to be safe but I haven't noticed them limiting travel or anything (I thought I did at one point but my shocks just didnt have enough down travel). I haven't noticed anything stretching in the front either but it really depends.
Heres some random info concerning lifting as well that you may or may not know:

If you plan on getting 285s or larger you'll probably notice rubbing on the frame and control arms if you are on stock arms as well as lots of rubbing on the pinch welds and fender well plastics, you can relieve this with spacers and trimming. If you go with tall and skinny tires you may not have to deal with this, but tall and wide tires you likely will. I have 285/75r16 (33's) and I was this close to my spindles without spacers:

As far as CVs, I haven't had an issue with them binding, but I did tear a boot not too long after I did the lift, this can be avoided/fixed by doing the diff drop (which is included if you buy most kits on toytec) and/or the boot slide mod.
Fins touching in first pic, boot slide mod in second, just loosen clamp and pull further down shaft (theres a more complicated way if you take the boot off):


Some people have noticed after lifting ~3" that there was a vibration of some sort which can happen and one possible cause is the driveshaft angles, fixes for this are carrier bearing spacers/drops or axle shims. You basically want the driveline to be as straight as possible.
before and after axle shims you can see how much more straight the axle shim makes it:

and an example of a carrier bearing drop bracket:

I haven't had to do either of these things but you might.

Some things that people (including myself) often forget to order when getting a lift are longer/replacement U-bolts, most would tell you to toss the old ones basically every time you take them off. Also an exhaust spacer, alternatively you can just cut the exhaust before the axle and dump it, also alleviates the risk of getting it caught on a rock or something, which many can attest to. Some lifts don't include a brake proportioning valve bracket as well, which is essentially a flat bar with holes drilled into it. a BPV, in case you don't know, basically adjusts the front and rear braking based on how much weight is in the bed, if it isn't relocated the BPV will 'think' for lack of a better term, that there is less weight in the back than there actually is. The bracket lifts the Valve up a bit to correct this.

good sites to do some shopping on:
http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com
https://bilsteinlifts.com/product-category/toyota-tacoma/1995-2004/
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com
http://iconvehicledynamics.com/shop/402-1996-2004-tacoma



Hope I helped a little bit.

 

Welcome to TW!

 

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