Dual battery questions

Can anyone give me any advice on what to get for a dual battery setup. I don't want spend a lot but I want to do it right. I have no idea on what to get or how to set it up and I have read all the forums (hasn't helped at all). Any advice would help. It doesn't have to be fancy; it just has to do the job. Thanks

 

@tcBob

 

"Dual battery questions" might have been a better title, no?

People actually need help, please consider that when you make threads in the future.

 

For a start how about replacing the drama queen subject thread with something more helpful?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ets-see-them-multiple-batterys-thread.295653/

 

I presume you saw this thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ets-see-them-multiple-batterys-thread.295653/

And there is no one right way, as long as you understand the advantages and disadvantages of a particular setup. For example, you don't have to isolate the batteries in a dual battery system; they can be wired in parallel if all you are looking for is more battery juice.
See: https://caravanchronicles.com/guides/how-to-connect-two-batteries-in-parallel/

1st thing is deciding where you want to put the 2nd battery which will depend on configuration of the engine bay. For Taco owners, the best place is rear pass side if you don't have the ABS plumbing in the way. My Taco has the ABS plumbing, so, I placed mine next to it which necessitated re-routing the air duct with an aftermarket duct. Some have placed it front pass side next to radiator; you need to reposition PS pump. Some got a dual battery tray and placed 2nd battery side-to-side with stock battery (tray is pricey and whole setup adds weight to an otherwise already heavy driver side.) A few have placed 2nd battery under rear seat; and others in the bed. Both require extra cabling which needs to be heavier AWG (1/0 at least) to make up for reduce voltage drop.

Then you have to decide what kind of battery isolation system you want. Generally speaking, there are three types: solid state, solenoid, and on/off switch. Solid state isolators connect to the alternator; they are a worry-free design, but are pricier, susceptible to heat and inherent to a half volt drop. Solenoid relays are, by far, the most popular; they are an eclectro-mechanical device that are eventually prone to failure, but should last the life of a car. Both of these switches have pricier models designed to overcome their disadvantages. Finally, the on/off switch. It is used primarily in marine applications but can easily be installed in a vehicle. The problem is wiring it into the cab compartment as the switch is rather large and finding a location in the cab can be a challenge.

I followed your desire of a simple and affordable system. I found this link after my setup but wished I had seen it first. Note, you want the relay amp rating to match or be higher than the max alternator current output. Also, I recommend 2AWG wiring or thicker.
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...ke-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50

If you are wiring it yourself, get a hydraulic crimper; they are worth the price and will save lots of time. Alternatively, a local battery shop can cut and crimp the wiring for you. You will need good quality heat shrink tubing. I got all my cables from Crimp Supply, an Amazon vendor; they include copper lugs.

 

before the bs

 

https://off-grid-engineering.myshopify.com/