What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Takes a good bit of time setting everything up for a show but the types of shows I did meant I could keep it the same for the whole run unless I really didn't like something. I was a bit of a one man crew too considering no one from the theatre dept wanted to learn sound or lighting stuff. They didn't mind being stage hands though so at least I got to boss them around in an attempt to get shows ready in time. fond memories!

 

I also learned that our high beam indicator light works on a resistance system through the cluster. With my HID retrofit and the LEDs in the dash, I couldn't get the high beam indicator light to work. Even used the ebay headlight harness resistor block and homemade resisters. Nothing worked until I figured that out and added some incandescents inline.

 

They're Sylvania 194 bulbs. You can get them at any autoparts store

 

Thanks! My right bulb has been out for sometime. Guess I should replace them. Hard to see how much gas I have I night lol.

 

Anyone have a good write up on front diff swap with torque specs on bolts...found this write up and just curious as to torque specs and best diff oil to use...seems like other peeps were looking for the dif plug specs thx just curious on the rest

http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/frontarb/frontarb.htm

 

You mean the NE CL thread? Yeah, I'm in that. Unless there is a specific NE TW Express thread. But either way, if someone needs something transported, I'll see if I can help them out. I'll be in Cambridge and should be there the 11th and 12th.

 

Nah it's just there for looks. You can probably modify that part and relocate the turn signals in there.

 

Oh man. My old theater's cyclorama lights were these almost 40 year old halogen fixtures that always broke. One day during a performance they started smoking, I was honestly surprised they didn't catch on fire. I tried rebuilding them but the fiberglass insulation was too much of a mess. We ended up chunking them and picking up these nice RGB LED cyc lights with a couple million different color combinations. I think they just replaced the old cyclorama too. It was something like almost $10,000 to have a new one custom made.

Gels were do goddamn loud. Just looking through the box of the made so much noise.

Oh yeah and when the director would ask for more "hi tone" or more "low range" I would literally hold my hand over the soundboard sliders and mimic the movement. It worked every time and they never thought anything else about it.

 

Talkin bout this bad thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/northeast-tw-express-thread.461780/

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/352004828479?rmvSB=true

 

Damn right. Im getting old. Ill stick to my stock amber color. Lol

 

So my turn signals don't work now. I replaced the stock flasher relay with a new one from superbrightleds that has a controllable rate. My blinker bulbs have been broken and I just cleaned the contacts and put in new led switchbacks.

Must be a ground I'm thinking? Cause my hazards still work and I don't think it's the new relay cause I can still control how fast the hazards blink with the knob.

I asked before but no response,
What does this wire go to? Is the blinker tied into this? This has been unattached for a while as much as I know and the cruise control isn't missing a pin.


Helllllllp

 

Can't help you with the wire - I don't have ABS. Is your blinker fuse OK? Hazards are running of different fuse. Hazards are on Horn/Hazard fuse in the engine bay, Blinkers run of Turn Signal fuse in the cabin. The Hazard switch has all "magic" to select the power source and which blinkers to light up.

 

Not a write-up, but here are all the torque specs.

 

Yeah the fuse looks ok.

 

I know this is stupid..but worth a check. Are they plugged in backwards?

 

The bulbs? They look the same on both sides.

So before, both front and rear blinkers didn't work, I turned on the truck and only the rear incandescent blinkers work. To the rate I have set them at via the relay.

 

Switchback LEDs are polarized though.

 

If they work with hazard than polarity is OK.

It doesn't need to "look ok" as long as it's not blown

Looks at the electrical - it is very, very simple (not like in newer generations with all computer shit).




There are only three components: Hazard switch, Flasher and Turn switch. And wires of course. I marked hazard light related circuit in green, and turn related connections in red. If none of signal works (no let or right) that one of wires marked in blue are not right or there is internal damage to either hazard light switch or turn position switch.



Either one easy to verify. As you see everything is inside the cabin under the dash so the wire next to ABS is not relevant.

It is also possible that you have some alarm installed and that screwed up the factory connections. I would diagnose from the power source:
1. measure the voltage before and after the turn fuse. It should have 12V+ when Key is in "ON position"
2. Measure the voltage on the hazard switch Pin 10 and 7 (should be 12V when hazard is in OFF position)
3. Check connection on turn switch: it should have 12V on Pin 2 always and on either pin 1 or 3 when turn is switched left or right.

I don't see any other option. Of course assuming all plugs are connected and there is no alterations to the wiring.

 

plasti dipped