Changing differential fluid - A step by step "HOW TO"

Nice to have a friend with a lift....made this job a LOT easier!!

 

Thanks @2015WhiteOR !!

 

I know similar topics about the LSD additive have come up, but I was at autozone, and they didn't have any Diff fluid that did not include LSD additive in them already...is this enough? Just looking for thoughts, because I put 80-90 Valvoline with LSD additive in my '06 about 30-40K ago and really haven't had any issues to note. Just wondering if the additive in there is enough I guess? (Also, Autozone doesn't sell any additive...which is lame...)

 

Just an FYI some gear oils that have "Limited Slip" printed on the bottle don't always have any friction modifier included. They are just stating that their oil is compatible with an LSD, but you still need to add some modifier. The Valvoline you put in actually does include it. The spec sheet from their website says it includes enough for 'most' LSDs. I just did my diff yesterday with the same Valvoline you used and added a small tube of modifier just in case our trucks aren't in the 'most' category lol. It's good to hear you're fine w/o it; maybe I will forego it next time if yours stays good for the long haul.

Strange your autozone didn't have any additive. My autozone had a Trans-X additive, and O'reilly had a Lubegard additive (what I used).

Link for Valvoline: http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/high_performance_gear.pdf

 

Nice. Thanks for the back up of some actual research. Makes me feel better that I'm probably not going to explode my diff any moment, lol.

 

You'll know if you don't have enough LSD additive in your clutch-based diff. It'll chatter and vibrate on turns and you won't want to keep driving that way LOL.

If it feels fine then no need to worry.

 

Tacoma Drivers,

Been reading through this thread attempting to get a understanding for the various rear differential fluids used and how to select the correct fluid for the truck I own, a 2011 DC V6 auto trans TRD OR with factory RR Diff Lock.

My book says Gl-4 or 5 75w-85 and no mention of synthetic.

I'm concluding, from this thread, I can safely use 75w90 with NO LSD additive for my 2011 TRD OR. I'm also lead to believe, from this thread, I could use synthetic but might get some chattering, but using non- synthetic would eliminate that possibility completely.

For grins I called my local Toyota dealership service department and asked what they would put in if I brought it to them. The reply was synthetic 75w-150 with a friction modifier. NOT what my book says, nor this thread.

It's my humble opinion the maintenance is straight forward and relatively easy to accomplish based on this thread, thanks TW. Selecting the correct fluid is a little cloudy at the moment.

I drive OR in Colorado about 20% of my time.

I believe the answer is 75w90 non-synthetic, is that correct?

Thanks
Bob

 

Hey Bob. You are correct to use 75w90 with no LSD additive.

Whether the fluid is synthetic or dino would have no impact on chatter, which you wouldn't experience anyway because the differential is open (there is nothing to chatter).

Synthetic would have longer service life between drains, but will cost more.

So just go find ANY good quality 75w90 and go with that. That's all.

 

This!

 

Thanks for the replys and conformation.
Cheers

Bob

 

I'm about to change my diff fluid and i have the 2013 SR5. The book does not say anything about adding any kind of LS additive. I know the older trucks you had to. Single press gives me auto LSD, If i hold it down it will only say trac off. I am looking at this.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ate&utm_campaign=2206300&utm_content=10711125

 

Looks good. Just do it.

 

No additive required in a 2013. 2005-2008 TRD Sport only.

 

Ok thanks guys I have 70k and it hasn't been changed

 

Just did a tranny and rear differential fluid change on my high mileage 95 Tacoma 2WD and found that the fill bolts were so badly "welded" on there that nothing seemed to work well to remove them. I struggled hard to get them out. THE OP mentioned using a M24 wrench or socket to remove the rear diff bolts. They are M24 bolt heads but I have found that a 15/16 socket has a bit tighter tolerances than a M24 and fits my bolts a bit better - your mileage may vary. A six point socket is much better at grabbing the flats of the bolt than a 12 pointer. I also ground/ sanded the relief cuts on the front of the socket (designed to make putting the socket onto the bolt easier) mostly off to get the most gripping surface that wasn't "relieved," since on the bolts there is only about 3/16" of thickness to the head. Using the M24 provided for badly rounded bolt head - even after liberal use of penetrating oil and thread shock with blunt tools (not damaging the bolt). A lot of guys had success with an oxy-acetelyne torch but I don't have one. Anyways, found that hitting the bolt with a piece of steel round bar and a sledge seems to loosen rust and galling and help unstick the threads. Using an air impact gun works, but without modifying a 15/16" socket it didn't work for me - to the extent of having to use a "rounded bolt remover" socket on the transmission (I believe this was a M18 or so bolt head). Actually, after removal both fill bolts were damaged enough to make me get new ones from Toyota.

My truck has been rode hard and put up wet and has over 400,000 miles on her and I have decided to take a bit better care of her and her successor (whoever she may be). I ended up using Valvoline conventional 75-90 for the Trans and Lucas synthetic 75-90 for the rear diff (since it is rated for hypoid gears, which the manual calls for). I used to just fix whatever problem came up, and they were few and far between, but have decided that preventive maintenance is the way to go.

To prevent this from happening to me in the future I added a little copper anti-seize to the threads of the fill bolts. Then I thought "what if that stuff gets into the trans or diff oil, that would be bad," but i used just a smidge and I hope its allright.

Next on the list is the shifter seat and seal that seems to be a common problem with Tacomas. Happy wrenching!

 

The drain plug on the rear of my 2015 was a bitch as well. Impact gun got it eventually

 

I have a 2010 TRD OR, no need for additive. What gear oil is recommended? XJuice mentioned "Limited Slip" on the label doesn't necessarily mean there is additive. So gear oil with "Limited Slip" on bottle is okay to use? First time doing a rear diff fluid change. Thanks!

 

Yes. I use Mobil or amsoil 75w90 with good results.

 

All you need to worry about is getting the proper grade oil. The presence (or absence) of additive won't affect your truck.