2012 Reverse Camera Switch

I should have mentioned - this is specific only to the camera signal, and power still needs to be provided. I'd suggest piggyback wiring the power to the additional camera so when the switch that activates the above coil is on - it also powers the second camera. Sorry for the crude drawing... Might want to ground the shields to prevent noise too.

 

Here is what I just completed. I added three cameras to my Entunes display. Here's the electrical schematic, give or take...

There are two switches added. One is the on/off which trips a relay to power the cameras, trips a relay to put 12 volts to the HU to toggle to camera display, and also provides power to a 6-position selector switch that triggers a relay bank to pick the desired camera to display. You will note that the backup camera runs through a NC on relay 1, so if the camera on/off switch is off, putting the truck in reverse, you get the backup camera.The cameras I added are one on the front looking pretty much down.


One near the transfer case looking forward towards the bottom of the skid plate, and also the lower control arms.


And the third is near the second, but looks backwards, with a mirror image.


Of course, I still have the backup camera as a selection, and I have everything in place to add up to two more cameras if ever I desire.

I took it for a short off-road spin and having the views of what's going on in front and underneath is fantastic!

 

Thats freakn sweet!!!

 

Thanks. I planned and researched this for this for a long time. The parts finally all came in and I took the dive.

 

subd

 

Been wanting a front camera for a long time to see when coming over hills or rocks on the trail.

 

For those wanting just a front camera, here's an easier schematic. This method will use one switch to automatically display your added camera.

For the DPDT relay, you can use a low cost 12VDC relay from Radio Shack.

From earlier posts, you know where to intercept the reverse signal to the HU. You can intercept the backup camera signal line behind the kick panel a the driver's left foot. The signal wire is the bright red one running through that black delphi connector. The wires on the left are the incoming from the camera (and others) and the outgoing to the HU (and elsewhere) are on the right (towards the bulkhead).


The top four wires in this connector are the power, ground, signal, and signal shield. In my install, I connected the shields from each camera together and grounded them, but it's probably not necessary. I actually bought a set of these connectors from Mouser, so that I didn't have to cut into the wiring, and made my own harness to mate between the parts. If you can find a few Delphi 150 male and female terminals, you can just remove the signal-carrying terminal and wire from the connector (in this style, you have to remove that little white plastic locking piece first), and insert a male connector into it with your wire connected, then secure with heat shrink. You can then put your output line into the connector and reconnect.

If you use the small pc-mount DPDT relay, another trick is to pick up some crimp-on female d-sub connector terminals (Radio Shack). They can be crimped onto your wire, then slide some small heat shrink over the wire, slide the terminal onto the appropriate terminal of the relay, solder the terminals together for assurance, then slide your heat shrink over the top and heat to shrink. This makes a real solid connection.

 

DougsGraphics,
Do you have the part number for the delphi connectors? http://www.mouser.com/Delphi-Connec...ors/GT-150-Series/_/N-1ehb5?P=1yzmtniZ1z0zlez

Also I don't recall reading where you got the "Reverse camera" switch from, do you have a link to that as well?

Thanks for all the good info, I will definitely be doing this to incorporate a camera on the back of my trailer.

 

I ended up getting a 7" external monitor, a splitter/controller, and 4 cameras

OP, how do you like your camera placements? They get covered with mud/dirt pretty easily? I'm planning on front, rear pumpkin left, rear pumpkin right, and maybe front to see the IFS. Still will have the OEM backup camera in the mirror that is switched.

 

I will have to check on the part numbers. I am sure I have them. I will have to also look up the switch info as its on another computer. It came on a slow boat from China, but it does the trick.

 

Camera placement is OK (caveats to follow), but camera format is a bit of an issue. HU is roughly a 2:1 format, so with my cameras, I get significant clipping on the width. The rear-facing camera has been pretty trouble-free and remains relatively clean, except in really muddy conditions. The same is pretty much true of the one on the front bumper. The other camera has gotten some crazing by road rock and will be the first to get covered in mud. Because of the format mismatch, this one isn't showing me as much as I would like to see. I have considered replacing it with a camera with a better format match, or maybe with two cameras. Maybe in the spring...

 

Part numbers for the connectors are in the diagram: Delphi 15332153 and 15332158. At mouser, the mouser part numbers are the same, just prefixed with "829-". Remember that you will also have to order GT-150 male and female terminals as well, and there are a few options depending on mating conductor size and materials.

 

By "other one" do you mean the one on the crossmember, or the one on the transfer case?

 

The one on the cross member.

 

I miss read your post, when you said terminals I was thinking you meant the connector, but I now get what you are saying.

In your previous post you were saying to de-pin the red wire from the connector then add in-line the wiring needed, thus requiring one male and one female terminal, or pin.

and

 

Sub'd

 

Correct. I actually put a full harness in between, but my suggestion is as you stated. Its simpler, cheaper, and just as effective. Be sure to put heat shrink over the connection to ensure it doesn't come loose.

 

I have a feeling I will likely solder splice instead, cleaner that way. I will try to remember to take pictures when I do get around to this.

 

mattk_r can you please share your wiring diagram for the simple anytime rear camera swith/relay? I see the multi camera versions but I want to be sure I understand how your reverse lights do not come on, whereas the original wiring shown in the Drakivnsf video apparently does not isolate the reverse lights. Did you splice into the same wire at the ECU - or did you add a diode - or did the relay somehow isolate the reverse lights and I just don't get it?

Thanks a ton for any help - gonna add an air-on-board SPST switch and a 5-pin SPDT relay to the stock reverse camera (the only one I have/need) on my 2015 with entune (no nav) this weekend.

Thanks for all the posters on this mod for the info - cool stuff.

 

OK, I answered my own question - if you tap the existing power that's activated when the shifter is placed into reverse (as shown in Drakivnsf's write up on page 2 of this thread), and pull a second power source from the ACC fuse, then your reverse lights will not come on when you manually switch the reverse camera on and they continue to work as expected when the shifter is placed in reverse...no additional diodes or magic needed

Parts I used on my 2015 TRD OR - Entune with no NAV:

Switch: - fits perfectly in the unused socket under the climate controls (note AOB offers different parts for different model years):
http://www.aironboard.com/online/pu...replacement-reverse-camera-led-green-red.html
AOB has other colors too.

Relay:

$10 True MODS 1 Pack 5-Pin 12V Bosch Style Waterproof Relay Kit [Harness Socket] [12 AWG Hot Wires] [SPDT] [30/40 Amp] 12 Volt Automotive Marine Relays for Boats Auto Fan Cars

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N66W2XF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wire Specifications: Black - Ground (85), Red - VDC (30), White - Trigger (86), Yellow - Output N/C (87a), and Blue - Output N/O (87).

Fuse Tap: - You will also need a 3-Amp fuse to feed the new switch/relay:

$9 Nilight 200PCS Male Female Fully Insulated Wire Crimp Terminal Nylon Quick Connectors Wiring Spade 16-14 Gauge, 2 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUTYYS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the power wiring diagram - again, not to repeat the good work of others, but this is strictly for switching power to the OEM reverse camera only - no extra cameras:



I was able to tuck the relay behind the coin tray to the right of the fuse block and the AOB push button looks like it was meant to be there from the factory.

Thanks everyone for the great info - definitely happy with the mod.