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Best Battery

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by george3, Oct 18, 2009.

  1. Apr 13, 2017 at 7:29 AM
    #201
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    Based on a nationwide study by Interstate Batteries, the average battery life in NE Texas is 41 months. My experience with sealed wet AC Delco "Maintenance Free" batteries' in Texas was two summers, if I was lucky. If you have an application like extreme off roading, spiral wound AGM batteries, for example a Optima Yellow Top, work very well if they are relocated away from the high underhood heat in a hot climate.
     
    Hiloboy96720 likes this.
  2. Apr 13, 2017 at 7:40 AM
    #202
    ETXTacoma

    ETXTacoma Someone gave me a plasma cutter.

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    Thanks for the help. I ended up going with an OEM Truestart from the dealer for the warranty and the price was better than others.

    Ended up finding out that the battery that was in the truck when I bought it was not even the correct size or CCA for the truck... so now trying to figure out how that happened.
     
  3. Apr 13, 2017 at 8:29 AM
    #203
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    I hope the dealer sold you a fresh Group 24F or 27F battery for they are perishable due to their natural self discharge.
     
  4. Apr 13, 2017 at 8:32 AM
    #204
    knottyrope

    knottyrope Well-Known Member

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    my OEM battery lasted me over 7 years
    went to Benny's and bought their largest battery and stuck it in but was 1/4 in short so added in a spacer to keep it tight

    I like to use the radio at the beach all day with out worry.
     
  5. Apr 13, 2017 at 8:41 AM
    #205
    ETXTacoma

    ETXTacoma Someone gave me a plasma cutter.

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    From what I can tell they did, if not... then I have the True Start warranty to fall back on and get a free replacement within 2 years or prorate after 2 year up to 60 months.
     
  6. Apr 14, 2017 at 7:05 PM
    #206
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    So the dealership would not warranty my battery today. They stated that they left the lights on for 1/2 hr and the voltage was still in the acceptable range. The results of the battery report are below. Naturally I was hoping to get a new battery today, I priced a 27f from the dealer and it was 150$ with battery return. Still considering a new battery, either the OEM 27f from the dealer, or a 24f from walmart. Thoughts?
    1. Battery report
    2. Rated CCA 710
    3. Measured CCA 591
    4. Voltage 12.34v
    5. State of charge: 62% ? (Chart shows to be between 50-75%
    6. State of health: High

    [​IMG]
     
    shakerhood likes this.
  7. Apr 14, 2017 at 7:16 PM
    #207
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    First, clean the battery terminals and posts and fully recharge your battery with a battery charger. Have the battery and alternator tested at a battery or parts store. You could have a charging system problem. If you end up wanting replacing your battery, see Section 7 in the Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ on www.batteryfaq.org for some buying tips.
     
  8. Apr 14, 2017 at 7:56 PM
    #208
    knottyrope

    knottyrope Well-Known Member

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    I used a Deka 900 cca battery in mine.

    Just had to add a spacer under it

    IMG_20170414_2252568.jpg
     
  9. Apr 14, 2017 at 8:00 PM
    #209
    NMTrailRider

    NMTrailRider Well-Known Member

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    I just got an Interstate 27F (made by Johnson Controls, and the clerk at Interstate Batteries said they do all the OEM replacements for Toyota dealer in my city). The battery I got was a step up from OEM. 30 month full replacement, pro-rated to 60 months. $131.00. Not a bad deal.

    If I were you, I'd stick to 27F. Why not. It's rare you need more CCA's (24F) but you might sometime appreciate the reserve capacity (27F).
     
    IronPeak[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Apr 14, 2017 at 8:05 PM
    #210
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    Thanks yes that's what I intend to do. Neither costco (interstate batteries) nor walmart carry a 27f, but I left a message at the local interstate dealer late this afternoon. I think they went home early for the day. Plan is to purchase a 27f from them.
     
  11. Apr 14, 2017 at 8:11 PM
    #211
    IronPeak

    IronPeak PermaLurker

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    The battery is 2 years old and for awhile I was making short daily trips of under 2 miles. I think this caused my battery to lose capacity as it has. I charge it here and there with a 4 stage 3a battery tender that i have hardwired. Post charge the voltage is 12.2-12.5v. I will look into getting the alt tested when I get the new battery.
     
  12. Apr 15, 2017 at 7:23 AM
    #212
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    Driving habits, especially under five miles or in inclement weather, or a sulfated battery will normally not allow the vehicle's charging system to replace the charge used to start the engine. Lead sulfate gradually accumulates due to the undercharging of the battery. An easy way to determine if driving habits are causing this accumulation is to measure the battery voltage with a digital meter before you start the engine in the morning. If the voltage is indicating a temperature compensated full charge and this continues, the undercharging will reduce the CCA (performance) and RC (capacity). This is consistent with what you are experiencing. Typically, every time you start a cold engine you will lose 5% or more of the battery's capacity. A simple way to avoid battery undercharging problems from driving habits, storage or excessive electrical loads is to periodically "top off" the battery overnight with a smart battery charger.

    During the colder months in my unheated garage, with a quick disconnect I tether my batteries off of smart temperature compensated battery chargers. Examples are a 1.25 amp Battery Tender Plus, 10 amp Solar PL2310, etc. This will automatically keep my batteries fully charged, ability to start my engine a sub zero temperatures without engine/battery heaters, the batteries from freezing, and longer battery/alternator service life. So far this technique has worked impeccably for me over the last 15 years. I also use an Innova 3721 plugged into a cigarette lighter to monitor my car batteries and vehicle charging systems.

    Three year free replacement car battery warranties for the original buyer are becoming more popular.
     
  13. Apr 15, 2017 at 8:33 AM
    #213
    scottfarm

    scottfarm Well-Known Member

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    aires 3D mats, scan gauge II, rear differential breather relocation, and bakflip G2 bed cover.
    Autozone duralast gold. There is always a store nearby no matter where it goes dead.
     
    Slickrick0999 and Whitetrash like this.
  14. Oct 17, 2017 at 9:16 PM
    #214
    MonkeyProof

    MonkeyProof Power Top

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    My Diehard Group 31M has nearly reached Critical Mass after nearly 8 years of care free ownership.

    There's an internal short happening making the battery hot to the touch just sitting by itself, especially at the terminals. This is after being removed from my junk 24 hours ago, still hot. Has also started to emit a rotten egg smell since removed from my Tacoma, all signs of a battery with a bad and/or shorted cell(s). Battery had been giving a slow crank at start-up and wouldn't hold a charge within the last week and a half that required a jump start most of the time. My little jump start pack has more than earned it's money.

    Didn't noticed the scorch marks from the gasses escaping until after removing the battery from the Pelfreybilt Battery Tray
    20171017_202332.jpg
    Only 83CCA lulz
    20171017_202158.jpg




    After about 1.25 minutes of googling batteries because my short attention span, I decided to go with (2) East Penn Mfg. Co. Deka Batteries branded as Duracell Platinum AGM size 34/78 part# 78DTAGM. I got them at Sams Club for $129.88 ea. which has the absolute best price for this battery. This is the same exact Battery as the Deka Intimadator part# 9A78DT. The Deka battery has nearly identical specs as a Yellow Top 34/78, just way, way cheaper. Only difference in specs is that the Deka battery has a higher CCA rating at 775CCA compared to the Yellow Top CCA at 750CCA, and the Deka battery weighs one pound lighter than the Yellow Top.

    https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...ze-78dtagm/prod3590233.ip?xid=plp:product:1:2

    20171017_195333.jpg
    20171017_202107.jpg


    http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/1737.pdf





    Listed below are known Deka and Deka Repackaged 34/78 Group batteries
    (list stolen from trail-gear.com)
    -Deka Intimidator 9A78DT
    -Deka Intimidator 9A78CDT
    Deka Intimidator 9A78
    -Deka Intimidator 9A34
    -Deka Intimidator 9A34R

    Duracell AGM Automotive Battery -
    Group Size 78DTAG

    -O’Reilly’s Auto Parts -
    Super Start Platinum
    Part Number: 78PLT
    Part Number: 34/78PLT

    -Auto Zone -
    Duralast Platinum
    Part Number: 78DT-AGM
    Part Number: 78-AGM

    Carquest Batteries - Next Generation - Extreme Service Part Number:
    NG3478
     
  15. Oct 17, 2017 at 9:21 PM
    #215
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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  16. Dec 9, 2017 at 9:14 AM
    #216
    Jagfan904

    Jagfan904 Well-Known Member

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    I’m using a interstate battery I’ve had it for about 4 years. I’ve heard that it’s good to change the battery out after 4 years for preventative maintenance. You don’t have to change it just recommend.
     
  17. Dec 9, 2017 at 9:31 AM
    #217
    Steves55

    Steves55 Well-Known Member

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    I use nothing but Interstate batteries in all my vehicles. Can’t beat their warranty & there are dealers everywhere. Used to use Optima batteries in my hotrods until I had one short internally & burned one of my cars to the ground. When I called my insurance claim adjustor, she said he has a basket full of fire damage claims from using sealed AGM & spiral cell batteries. Not as sealed as you think!
     
  18. Dec 9, 2017 at 12:25 PM
    #218
    Shadetree

    Shadetree Well-Known Member

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    Battery health is somewhat predictable with load (Reserve Capacity) and performance (CCA) testing, but the accuracy depends on the abuse, preventive maintenance and ambient temperature. Of the two tests, load measurement is a better indicator of a failing battery. If either or both measurement is 80% or below the manufacturer's specification, that when I replace a "non mission critical" battery. When it is below freezing, slow starting is usually another good indication that the battery need to be replaced.
     
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  19. Dec 9, 2017 at 12:58 PM
    #219
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Notthstar AGM 27F FTW
     
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  20. Dec 9, 2017 at 1:09 PM
    #220
    FastEddy59

    FastEddy59 TTC #0061

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    Well said, Bill. Those two factors are definitely key. As far as temp. extremes the 'ol battery(s) take a beating. Think of going from hot, under the hood temp., down to -40C and being asked to crank over a frozen engine. Battery blankets, engine block heaters, exhaust shields/insulators, if running headers all play a factor in battery performance & longevity. Gets cold in Bozeman, Powerful Cold in Winnipeg. Great point!
     

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