What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Okay so I think I get it. The oem design was to have current to run from the alt, to that post through the oem panel, and then out to the battery. When I redid everything and ran from alt to the battery I left the one that went from the oem panel (the outgoing one) to continue powering the oem panel. So if I want this to work I would need to go from battery, to that post, which would then take me through the 80 amp fuse, and out to my aux panel, instead of the other way around?

 

Second interested

 

I agree. It should work.

I have the same setup, and I run the trailer aux plus the accessory block straight off the post you are talking about, have never had a short.
Might have been a stray strand of wire causing a short maybe?

 

I have no idea. It should def work in theory. But when I started the truck the alt belt was screeching and getting really hot. Quick research showed I was shorting the alt through that connection some how. I don't get it.

 

i was thinking about dipping its, I dunno if that'd look like trash/ ricer or not... probably.


That or save for a minute buy some glass just for cause.

 

Got any pics of how you did it? I want to make sure I'm not crazy.

 

Yes. Try that.

 

Ok, I'm hooked to the main terminal on the fuse box.
I'll have to check in the daylight. But It almost looks like it actually runs off the battery. So Maybe the theory is incorrect.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bretts-average-build-thread.305098/page-7#post-8203782

 

According to my rambling, there is a cable coming from the alternator to the battery, then a cable from the battery to that terminal on the fuse box.

The wiring for my separate fuse panel is not shown as it was added later and is supplied by the terminal off the fuse box. That terminal is not fused. It's direct to battery.

 

Replaced the upper and lower ball joints on the driver's side, to match the passenger's side I did recently. Now I have new OEM balljoints all around. A good feeling.

 

This happen today 150k miles.

 

Just getting broke inn.

 

And you did not let down, with a turnover pic while driving

 

God damn it..your right.

totally forgot that..

Still..idk why his alt got so overloaded from that..

 

A productive day: Got my front blinkers to work again (both happened to be in backwards), wired in the rear switchback halos, fixed the ground on the passenger headlight so now I can finally see with 2 lights, replaced the missing mount for the corner light, and painted and added the driver headlight filler panel.

Both halos



Projectors and halos



Switchback in amber

 

So you are going to that terminal to power it, but removed the hot that used to come out the bottom?

 

What do you guys think of marlin crawler brake lines? Fr/rr kit

I'd like to go with them so I could get the trans shifter bushing, then the shipping would be worth it.

Otherwise I'd go wheelers or allpro....

 

I mean, regardless @Star-Lord is not going "through" the oem panel, just using it as a connector. This might be the route I need to go. The way I have it now is actually fine, aside that I should probably put a breaker on it. It's kind of only a temp setup really though, I eventually will be doing a bussman next year. The biggest issue I run into is running out of space on the positive terminal even with military style connectors.

 

Yes. One cable was removed altogether out the bottom. That top post powers the fuse block. fwiw, that cable still enters from the bottom, you can just see it in one of those pics, but routes to the top post.

 

I might do this. I think it will at least give me the cleaned up look I am going for. At this point I don't even want to try to go "through" the OEM panel anymore.