Tonneau tent

Looked at Australian "ute swags" for a while. Suited me, but were a little loose and not very spacious above the old head. Took a different approach. Worked on this over the winter. Am finishing the interior, mostly woodwork. End of April maybe??

MG

 

Huh, looks a lot like an a-frame. How does it fold away and store?

 

Two aluminum poles from the corners of the tailgate connect to the corners of the UnderCover tonneau cover. Setup is like 5-10 minutes depending on where you head is. A few special connectors. Some other stuff, too.

MG

 

Great job...we could use some more details.. lots more
Interior pics...how it's set up ect.

 

Of course you could use more details. Haven't taken those photos yet. Was built a little off-the-cuff, you know. I'll fully document this spring sometime. Right now, let me finish the interior.

 

Did you post this in hopes of not getting any questions?

 

nice work!

 

I'd be interested in something like this, please share more.

 

Honored that you wish for me to share more of this experience. And I will. But I'm not finished, YET. Be patient,, guys. Until I can furnish you with the photos that you want, give me a little slack. I've already shown you what can be done.

 

With those being your answers... imho I think you should have finished before posting.
Thanks

 

Very cool. Quality sewing work right there!

 

this is fantastic. when you post the "rest of the story" can you please include what sewing equipment you used? Fabric supplier & Type would also be cool

 

I've decided to publish things in a few installments. I'm trying to collect the photos that show the framework, but we've been getting a bit of rain lately.

Your request requires no photos. I used a Singer 3115 straight stitch machine for most of the work. Circa 1916, formerly a treadle machine, later modified into a clutch-motor machine. An industrial workhorse, just won't die. One of the things I did before starting this project was to change it to a servo-motor machine. One of the smartest moves I've made. After a little fiddling, I can now make a half stitch at a time if I wish. I also inherited a lightweight Kenmore zig-zag machine, but I don't generally use it for heavier fabrics and webbings.

I chose my fabric based on several parameters: dimensional stability when wet, weather resistance, ease of fabricating and weight. I looked around and settled on WeatherMax 80 even though I would have bought WeatherMax LT if I could have found it in the color I wanted (Royal Blue, now hard to find). Got the fabric from Rochford Supply. I use a 125/20 needle and T-69 thread to reduce puckering. I use Iosso seam sealer on the inside of the seams.

I did not buy a fancy hot knife to cut the fabric. I modified a tip on my Weller 8200-N soldering gun and used a metal straightedge with a very thin edge as a guide. I placed the fabric on a ceramic tile about 6" x 24" to make the cuts. I used the top of a 4 1/2 x 9 snooker table (with the rails removed) for a layout table.

Most of the fasteners, zippers and trim for the canopy came from Sailrite, but some came from Seattle Fabrics and Rockywoods.

I'll try to take some more photos and post those this weekend.

MG

 

Looks great. Looking forward to some more pics

 

This is awesome. I was telling my wife about doing this a week or so ago. Cool that I can show her what I was talking about.

I like having the camper shell, but I would like to go with a tonneau.

 

I posted some photos in my media gallery. Search for MGGzcar. Only for the framework right now, the fabric will come later.
Numbers in parenthesis coincide with photo numbers.

My UnderCover tonneau cover weighs about 52 lbs. A LOT less than something like an ARE. The gas springs normally raise the cover to about 20 degrees from horizontal. This really didn’t cut it for me. I needed something like 40 degrees. So, I removed the gas springs and fitted a telescoping tent pole in the center that holds the cover at the same 20 degrees as the gas springs. Okay for daily use to access things in the bed or if I need to reconnect the gas springs. The bottom fits in a plastic socket screwed to the floor, the top has a flanged fitting with a protruding dowel that fits in a 1/4 hole in the center rib of the cover. (1)

I made some corner poles from 3/4 aluminum pipe (1.05 od). The length of the poles was determined by the longest length that would fit in my truck bed without being stored diagonally, which is 73 1/2 inches overall. The ends were plugged with wood and 1/4 brass dowels inserted in both ends. The dowels protrude 3/4 from both ends of the tubing. The cover sits at 40 degrees from horizontal with the poles installed. The picture shows Velcro applied to the poles. I originally thought that I would use it to help secure the fabric side panels, but found that I really didn’t need it. I left it on anyway, but it’s not necessary. (2)

Tailgate corner socket brackets are made from 3/16 aluminum angle. The vertical eyes are attachment points for an eventual canopy extending aft. (3)

I needed some extra room to install quarter-turn fasteners for the top of the rear fabric panel and I needed a place to anchor the tops of the corner poles. I added a wooden doubler to the bottom of the rear crossmember on the cover. I used 3/4 x 1 3/8 red cedar and put 1/16 x 1 x 1 aluminum angle on top of that to reinforce the areas around the sockets for the corner pole dowels. (4)

I removed the staked upper air spring ball studs from their brackets, drilled the holes to 5/16 and ordered some replacement bolt-type ball studs (if I ever need them and want to reinstall the air springs). Tension straps at both corners connect to the 5/16 holes and straps screwed to the rear bed pillars. These keep the cover in place in high winds or if it is inadvertently pushed upwards. (4)(5)

UnderCover supplied circular cotter keys to attach the cover at the forward hinge points. These seemed a little weak to me so I made some slotted keepers that are more robust. Had to notch the plastic a bit for clearance when the cover is raised to 40 degrees. (6)

 

I posted some more photos in my media gallery. Search for MGGzcar. Fabric work for now, interior will be down the road a bit. Numbers in parenthesis coincide with photo numbers.

The fabric enclosure consists of three separate panels that zip together in the rear. Two sides and a rear. The rear flap can be entirely removed, rolled up and fastened, pulled to one side at the bottom, or raised as a large flap that covers only the top third of the opening. Panels are fastened to the cover with Scovill quarter-turn and lift-the-dot fasteners. (7A, 7B)

When considering the enclosure I was as concerned about keeping bugs out as I was about the weather. To help seal the enclosure I had to add a few sheet metal guards at the front corners and around the UnderCover latches at the rear corners. (8)(9) I sealed the gap between tailgate and bed with 1/2 foam pipe insulation. Removed the tailgate and contact cemented it in place. (10) I also had concerns at the top of the side and rear panels because the fasteners that I used would not make the fabric sit tightly against the cover. Sewed in a V shaped rubber seal all around and ran my fasteners right through it. Not a perfect seal, but much better than nothing. (11)

I wasn’t sure how well I could align the fasteners in the fabric, so I installed the fasteners on the cover first and cut a piece of 2” polypropylene webbing to hold the fasteners. Then I stitched the fabric side panels to the webbing. (11) The top edge of the side panels had to be cut in a curve with a 1/2 inch deflection in the middle to eliminate bulging at the top of the panels.

The side panels are made of three pieces of fabric and trimmed with 7/8 Sunbrella centerfold binding and Sunbrella 13/16 acrylic braid binding. A small panel was added to the front end to allow for the tight transition from the cover to the outside of the bed and to wrap around the front of the bed and attach with Velcro. (12, 13) The horizontal seam behind the rear fender marks the 60” fabric width. The top edge of the rear bottom panel is a measure-in-place curve. (14)

The tailgate area presents some problems as far as getting a bug-free seal. Mine isn’t perfect, but it’s reasonably tight. I added a batten in a pocket to both sides to give a firm support for the fabric to fold under. (15) 3/16 bungee is used to tension the fabric. (16)

The rear panel is rectangular but the two rear aluminum poles are not parallel. The poles are about 1 3/4 wider at the bottom than at the top. The #10 YKK vislon zippers are stitched in straight lines on the rear panel, but both zippers curve 3/8 outboard in the middle onto the side panel flaps to tension the fabric as the zippers close. Internal and external storm flaps are 2 inches wide from zipper CL and fasten with Velcro. A piece of 2” webbing is stitched along the bottom and has pockets on the inside. You can put your hands in the pockets (a spatula works even better) and seal the Velcro to the tailgate from inside. (17, 18)

All windows roll down and fasten on the inside with toggles, rings, 1/2 ladderlocks and 1/2 grosgrain webbing. Each has a #8 YKK water resistant zipper on both sides. The rear window also has a separable #8 YKK coil zipper along the top, not water resistant. There is a storm flap under the screen covering this zipper, and a small triangular storm flap at the tops of the side windows. (19, 20) I used Phifer 20 x 20 vinyl coated fiberglass mesh for screen material, trimmed it with 3/4 black Sunbrella binding and put two rows of stitches around all sides.

 

Thats cool.

 

I posted another set of photos in my media gallery. Search for MGGzcar. Interior work. Left off the side and rear tent panels to allow for better lighting in the photos. Numbers in parenthesis coincide with photo numbers.

Right now I’m single and don’t need accommodations for more than one, so that’s what I built for. I’d pretty much do the same thing for the bed on the opposite side if building for two, and re-think the workbench. (21)

My mattress is an REI Camp Bed self-inflating, regular size. 2 1/2 inches thick. Next time I'll go for the 3 1/2 inches thick if it is still available. I glued Velcro strips to the mattress and bed board to prevent the mattress from sliding around. (21)

I use 3 rectangular and 1 square milk crates by Rehrig Pacific (HLA-24 & PLT3-16) to form a base for my bed ((22). They provide good storage compartments and are pretty easily accessible. I added some wood strips to the bottoms of the crates with zip-ties and hot glue. The strips fit in the grooves in the bed and prevent the crates from sliding sideways. A removable wooden stop at the bottom of the rearmost crate (22, 29) prevents everything from sliding rearward while a spacer at the front positions the whole group. My crate arrangement provides for a storage area 11 1/2W X 11H X 73L on the left side of the bed (22). For golf clubs, fishing rods, kayak paddles, whatever.

I made a support for the left side of the mattress panel and screwed it to the side of the truck bed (22, 25). My mattress panel pivots on the forward end of the crates and rotates up to provide access to the crates. It’s not attached to anything and can be lifted out if needed (22, 25). Made from 3/8 plywood and trimmed with 3/4 x 2 fir. Bottom side has guide ribs that coincide with milk crates and 3/8 plywood doublers that rest on the edges of the crates (necessary to provide clearance for the tops of 1 gallon plastic containers) (29). It is held up with 3/4 webbing, footman loops and Velcro.

I wanted some kind of a desk / workbench inside while I’m cramped out. I made my bench top from 3/8 plywood with 3/4 x 2 fir edges. (22, 26) It is only 15 1/2 x 50 1/2 because I sometimes carry a generator in the rear corner and it would interfere with the bench top. I used separable hinges at the forward end so that the bench top removes easily when needed. It can be held up with 3/4 webbing, footman loops and Velcro (22,24) just like the mattress panel. A support at the rear end of the wheel well provides stability (27). The inside rear end of the bench top rests on my 10 lb propane tank if I’m carrying it but also has a folding leg for support if I’m not carrying the tank (24). I'm currently making a cylindrical container out of 10" diameter concrete form to replace the propane tank (26) when it’s not needed.

Under the workbench on the forward end is a square milk crate. Front and rear bottom corners have been trimmed to allow it to fit closer to the bedside. Next to the wheel well is a 2 burner Coleman stove/grill. I made a rectangular tray to fit over the wheel well out of 3/16 Coroplast (22, 26, 27).

I added a 12V power panel with an ON/OFF switch, voltmeter, cigar lighter outlet and 2X 5V USB outlets (28). It is wired, fused, to the vehicle battery. I carry a 12V portable power supply to power my computer and a 12V fan at night (28). I also have a 750W inverter under my hood that gives me 120V AC that I can use to recharge my power supply while I'm driving. I have an extension cord that runs from the inverter, under the cab, along & under the right t-nut rail and exits at the end of the rail.

I have two methods of heating my enclosure. I can use a small 120V space heater at campgrounds that have outlets. For primitive areas I have a small propane heater. I installed a carbon monoxide detector (27) for the propane heater.

All wood parts are finished with three coats of good old spar varnish.

 

I love the setup and I know it’s definitely custom and built for your needs.
Any chance you’d start making these for others? I have a DCSB also with an Undercover (SE). I’d love to be able to camp under it and would definitely need the tailgate down since I have a 5’ bed. I could do my own interior farkles, but the fabric part isn’t my thing. If you ever decide to go to market, hit me up.