OEM to Air On Board Fog Light Switch Wiring

While a diagram would show how the internal circuit in the AOB is laid out, unfortunately it's the stock lighting circuit that is the problem.

 

The stock Rheostat controls both the power feed and ground wire to each light bulb in the illumination circuit. by using the stock ILL- on the AOB switch, you are creating a direct path to ground. This causes the whole illumination circuit to bypass the rheostat ILL- input wire and go straight to ground via the switch.

 

Went back in today.
I ended up move the ground to frame and removing it from the dimmer to prevent the ECU blowing. I took a look around and found some really deep info about the circuit in a 4-Runner forum and some prints.

That being said, I still need the resistor added to the green wire coming off the Fog light relay to get the symbol to light up. Everything is all working fine now.

Does anyone happen to know the resistance of the built in dash rheostat?

 

I'm so confused.

I have an AOB fog light switch. I want to just pull out the factory fog light switch and replace it with the AOB switch. I don't want to change how the switch functions, except to add the LED indicator when the switch is "on." Everything else can remain the same, if possible.

But I have no idea which wire to attach to which.

On the truck I have these wires and MAYBE the functions for them:

B/W (ground)
Blue (pin 85)
Green/white (sw illum -)
Green (sw illum +)


On the switch I have:
Red/yellow
Green/yellow
Blue/yellow
Black

My AOB switch arrived with no wiring diagram, just a switch and a wiring harness. I've searched and there are a few AOB diagrams on this forum and the Internet, but I can't find one clear enough to read and I can't find one on AOB's website.

Any help? I didn't think it would be this hard!!

 

Here is what I did to mine to get it to work:

AOB___________________________STOCK
Red/Yellow-------------------------------Blue
Green/Yellow----(82ohm Resistor)-----Black/White
Blue/Yellow-----------------------------Green
Black------------------------------------Grnd (ran new to frame)
Green/ White were capped off and not used anymore.

I only ran a new grnd to frame for my Black because I made a mini harness for all 4 of my new switches, it was just easier with room and maint at the time.

Wiring it up this way will get the label to come on with the control lights but not dim. The dimmer is run off the grnd and I believe shares with the ECU. There was a debate about some people not having any issues tying it in to the dimmer, while others ended up blowing the ECU. I went back to the safe route and ran my own ground. They aren't bright enough where I need them to be dimmed anyhow.

 

I could kiss you. lol thank you! I was hoping someone would give me kindergarten directions: wire the blue/yellow to green, etc. But I wasn't going to actually ask for that.

I can live without a dimmable switch. But running with fogs on in clear weather is illegal here, I don't want a ticket. Plus a couple weeks ago I got pulled over because I had a headlight out, and didn't realize it because I didn't notice my fogs were on. At least he let me go with a warning.

 

I wish I could explain it better but the stock illumination circuit is not designed to operate on a aftermarket switch that doesn't have a dedicated lighting circuit. A dedicated circuit does not share a common power or ground with in the switch.

These aftermarket switches need to have a separate power input for the "dash illumination" feature. Your best bet is to use the "tail" fuse as a source. This fuse is powered when turning on the park/headlights. Unfortunately the switches are not dimmable without creating your own dimming circuit - this involves controlling the input power.

 

I need to relook at the stock foglight wiring diagram, you shouldn't need to add a resistor to it regardless of the switch controlling the ground side of the relay. The led should work as long as the polarity is correct when hook up the wires. It does dim the light with the extra resistance.

 

It looks like the green/white is the ground, maybe? I'm only changing out the one switch so I should be able to just use the existing green/white ground.

I currently have wires sticking out of my dash because I saw that you used a resistor and yesterday being Sunday evening I couldn't buy a resistor, all the stores were closed. But then...

I think I'll still put a resistor on it so the light isn't crazy bright.

Wouldn't it have been easier for Toyota to just put a #%£€* indicator light on the dash?! "Hey look, your fogs are on."

 

Green/White is the grnd but only for the dimmer circuit. You cant use that with this switch other wise it will put voltage through the rheostat.

I would give it a go without the resistor and see what happens. It won't effect the brightness of the symbol. For me it was the only way I could get the symbol to even come on. I shouldn't need it really, but cant place my finger on why I do. Doesn't really make sense.

Try hooking it up with both your Red/ Yellow and Black from the AOB to ground. But not Green/Wht, that's ground through a dimmer which you don't want to do.

 

Well... wired it like above, but with the black wired into the same truck wire with the red/yellow.

The lower LED doesn't come on at all, the upper one comes on when the lights are off, and turns off when the lights are on.



What I *thought* would happen:
Upper illuminated all the time, lower on when lights are on, off when lights are off.

I guess at least I have an indication when they are on. *sigh*

 

Switched it so

AOB..... Truck
Blue/yellow .... blue
Green/yellow.... green.

Now the bottom light is on all the time and the fog light don't come on at all.

Edit: aww hell with it. First setup is fine, after half and hour of flipping wires around I'm so over this.

 

Thats probably because I am a dodo.
I swapped the wiring on two wires when writing out the print. I fixed it now on my post.

Yup the was the same exact issue I had and exactly why I added the resistor. I popped the resistor in and it all worked.

 

lol I just gave up and snapped the switch into the slot. I can't get to it without pulling out the dash so I will mess with it later if it annoys me. Thank you for your help though!

 

Aight. I'm a little OCD, got it wired up correctly. I used a 47 ohm (1/2 watt) resistor. It wouldn't light up at all without the resistor.

As discussed above, it's not illuminated at all when the lights are not on, but that's fine, I don't want to rewire more.

To be clear, here's my setup:
AOB......................... Toyota
Red/yellow.................. Blue
Green/Yellow..... Resistor...... black/white
Blue/Yellow .................Green
Black ............... black/white

There is nothing attached to toyota's green/white, it's capped. And it's correct that there are 2 wires attached to the Toyota black/white.

So now the LED is on when the lights are on and off when they're off. I'll take it. Thanks again for your help.

 

AOB Switch - layout

Switch - Red/Yellow stripe wire = Power output/feed to relay (activation)
Switch - Green/Yellow stripe wire = Fused switched or constant 12v source input
Switch - Blue/Yellow stripe wire = Switch light (positive 12v input - LED bulb)
Switch - Black wire = Chassis ground

Stock Harness - layout
Harness - #1) Green/white wire = Switch illumination positive circuit wire
Harness - #2) Green wire = Switch illumination negative circuit wire
Harness - #3) Blue wire = Power feed from fog light relay
Harness - #4) Black/white stripe wire = Chassis ground wire

AOB Switch wired to Stock Harness
Switch - Red/Yellow stripe wire
To
Harness - #4) Black/white stripe wire

Switch - Green/Yellow stripe wire
To
Harness - #3) Blue wire

Switch - Blue/Yellow stripe wire = Switch light (top)
To
Aux wire - Use an add-a-circuit and tap the "Tail" fuse. This will light up the switch when you flip on the parking or headlights.

Switch - Black wire
To
Aux wire - Chassis ground

Unused wires on stock harness - these are controlled by a separate stock circuit
Harness - #1) Green/white wire = tape off end / hot while dash lights are on
Harness - #2) Green wire = Tape off end

 

swapping these two wires will allow for the switch top led to light up when the switch is turned on. currently, it is bypassing the internal connection the switch makes when pressed.

LED's are polarity sensitive also

 

I had no difference on mine when I swapped them, that is what was driving me nuts at the time.

 

I'm pretty OCD about my truck looking nice so I got a stock QI wireless button and wired in a ChoTech 3 coil wireless charger under the little pocket on my console there shown in this pic.

Everything works perfect but the lighting.

I attached a wiring drawing of how I wired it up but I did it with the truck on and I had 12v when I started across green and gr/wh but I believe I accidentally shorted it while testing and now I only have 3v so my ac light and my QI backlight are very dim at night. They do not regulate by the variable resistor roller left of the steering wheel anymore.

All that being said, does anyone know where the 2 connectors I circled are located? i was going to see if i burnt a pic at one of those connectors or what i need to do.

Any help is appreciated!!
Thanks!

 

Waking this one from the dead. Thanks for the information. I have it in mind to replace my rear locker switch as well.