I'm guess my steering rack is worn out (vid)

I've been working on my 2000 Tacoma with 290K. I just did rack bushings and thought the rest of my play was from the inner tie rods. Plan was to swap ITR's and LBJ's. But, closer inspection after removing the boots reveals some play in the rack. Inner tie rods seem fine. OEM LBS' are now installed and this truck is in super nice condition(frame included).

Please tell me what you think. Wouldn't you consider this rack well worn? Advise is welcome.

Here is two vids:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCxCo9nEt5I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNp4XMoFEW4

Drivers side rack grime:


Passenger side rack (clean):

 

look into the steering rack guide replacement. that tightened up my steering rack a fair amount. and was at least a decent bandaid fix for the time being.

 

Thanks for your response. Is my rack the "old style" or "new style"?

So, this is the guide? I don't see why I would need a new spring, thin nut or cap. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...Ah53rRFgNQQfyvKXQ&sig2=YzY5xCDHGGpV6EtChnpdfQ

 

After some research, I think I have the old style rack guide. Can I replace my old style roller guide with the new style guide, spring, cap and lock nut?

 

Yes.

 

After doing my LBJ's and inner/outter tie rods I found mine did the same exact thing. I will be doing the steering shaft fix first before replacing my whole steering rack to see if that helps at all

 

Thanks.

After some research, most folks say that this will solve this problem. Since I only had a tiny bit of fluid come out of the driver side boot I'm replacing my guide with the new guide and cap.

Anyone know if the spring is the same part rather old style or new style? My spring looks fine.

 

Never mind about the spring. It's only a $3 part.

 

The spring is the same part

Also there is a write up somewhere describing the install process. The new style cap requires a very large hex bit, but this write up used a threaded rod coupler instead. They're like $1.50 at HD/Lowes instead of having to pay 10-15 bucks for a actual bit that big.

 

I've rigged up a 5/8-11 bolt with two nuts jammed on it. 5/8 bolt has a 15/16" head on it. 15/16" hex is what we're trying to achieve, right?

I've ordered the guide, cap and nut and plan to do this tomorrow evening. Please let me know if the hex isn't 15/16". Thanks.

 

Nice man, you're the resourceful type. I like that bolt head idea. And you're not intimidated doing all of your own fixes and maintenance. You'll fit right in here.

 

Glad and came on to read this. I've been putting off replacing mine. Maybe I'll try and do the same as you and see how it holds. Where are you buying all your parts from?

 

Thank you. I enjoy learning to do new things and I'm enjoying working on my "old" Tacoma.

I purchased these steering parts from my local dealer for just over $70+tax. Spring is the same part so I didn't order a new one(I wish I would have since they are only $3). Local dealer came down in price when I politely mentioned getting the parts less but were still a bit higher than Conicelli Toyota(online). https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/ is where I got my ball joints from for $197 shipped (including castle nuts, pins and (8) 10x1.25 bolts).

 

Lots of people order from Camelback Toyota. I'm in the Northeast and use Boch Toyota. Either way get them online, the online dealership prices are usually quite a bit cheaper than an actual brick and mortar dealership.

 

I can now see why the new guide is superior to the old style roller. It has a good bit more upper and lower support. I got it installed this evening and it removed the play in my steering rack. I kind of wish I had sprung for the newer spring while I was in there. I ended up putting a bit more tension on the cap than the 18 lbs - 19 degrees to get the movement out. I wonder if the 17 year old spring has weaken a bit. ITRE and OTRE felt great after installing the new guide. I'm getting it aligned tomorrow.

I also wanted to report that the 5/8" bolt is the correct size of hex but it was too long to work without removing the sway bar. I ended up butting two 5/8" nuts together and it was aggravating. Two nuts with a small piece of threaded rod(or shortened bolt) would have worked well.

Old original guide on left and new style guide on right.

 

Are we getting an 'after' video?

 

Unfortunately, I did not. But that would have been a good idea to show folks.

 

I may take a video next time I'm working on the truck. I replaced my old guide w the updated version and had the same symptoms as the OP.

Don't hold your breath though! Haha

 

Yep, found that and it was very helpful.