The Golden Triangle (Beaumont, Port Arthur, Nederland)

youve got small tires though, yours can still fit in the stock spare location

 

Mine fits there too

 

gtfo then

 

yeah, if I had a problem with fitment, I would probs look at a swing-out.

 

This is the issue I have. I end up taking my swingout off at least once a month to haul a long item.

I decided I'm going to build a dual swingout. This way I won't have as much weight cantilevered off the spindle when the swing out is open. Plus the swingouts will be short enough that I could leave the open when I need to drive with the tailgate down.

 

I've got my wand ready

 

Does your front bumper have movement on the road mine seems to move. Ima check tomorrow to see if any bolts are loose.

 

Mine does... only when it is on really really bumpy roads.

 

Nope, at least not that I can see

 

Well whenever @Overkill07 goes to your house this week we can try to move it up and tighten the fudge out of it.

 

Mine moves around and the bolts are tight

 

Jake...

 

Beautiful, wiring is what will take me some time to figure out. I'm debating on taking it all out and starting from scratch

 

I agree, my YJ is like that. To do it right is gonna require some serious money, tho...I was debating a Painless harness. However, if you're gonna rely on it, you gotta have good grounds, and that's probably where you'll run into issues with an old truck.

 

They make kits for jeeps but the old Toyota nobody does. I'm looking at a kit from speedway motors. I looks way easier and from what I read painless isn't all that great

 

It's actually the truck body moving in relation to the frame. Since you are sitting in the body of the truck you are moving with the body. That makes the bumper appear to be slightly moving while you are driving.

 

Mind=Blown

But in all seriousness, that makes alot of sense.

 

Yep that's why you do a 1/2" gap between your bumpers and the body, the bumpers will smash in to the body doing some damage.

 

• Do y'all notice a huge improvement over stock pads/rotors? Enough to replace them before the factory ones wear out?
• I have always been told not to buy drilled rotors. Dimpled are okay but not drilled. One for the issue of mud like Oscar said but second because the fully drilled holes cause stress cracks in them.

Saturday unless Chris changes his mind.

^This

 

Saturday evening or all day Sunday is good for me. Also I noticed a little bit of improvement with the Wagner pads and duralast solid rotors, but what really changed my braking as a whole was extended steel lines, made the brake a lot former