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New to TacoWorld - Running 33's

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by WVUWrestling197, Apr 30, 2017.

  1. Apr 30, 2017 at 7:22 PM
    #1
    WVUWrestling197

    WVUWrestling197 [OP] New Member

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    Jake Smith
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    All Stock Currently
    This is my initial post to Tacoma World because recently just picked up an '09 Double Cab TRD Edition Tacoma. It's been a long wait to get this truck, I've wanted one for over 10 years and finally had the opportunity to buy one.

    I've been skimming over threads for the past month getting an idea of what I want to make my truck look like. I'm want to make the move on purchasing XD Addict wheels, 17" seems to be my favorite. I do plan on running 33's and understand there are modifications needed to properly run them. I'm looking at lifting it 3".

    So now that you all kind of know what I'm going for, I'm very confused with offset, backspacing etc, and really have no idea what I need for these wheels in my situation. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

    Link to wheels :http://www.kmcwheels.com/wheel/11497/xd798-addict
     
  2. Apr 30, 2017 at 8:04 PM
    #2
    azzwethinkweiz

    azzwethinkweiz Well-Known Member

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    Tucson, AZ
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    Looking at the specs of those wheels; -12 offset with 4.53 backspacing. With 285/75r17 (close to a 33 and probably the most common size people want to run, except maybe in a 16...) seems like it would be pretty similar to what lots of people run with a 2.5-3" lift. Your gonna need to do the cab mount chop and trim your plastics and probably remove at least your front flaps... and you will probably still rub (particularly when backing up). But if she is a pavement queen and your not really stuffing your tires then it might not be a big deal for you.

    Everyones situation is different though and your results may vary. Good luck... there are a metric shit ton of threads on this.
     
  3. Apr 30, 2017 at 8:10 PM
    #3
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    My tires are 33.5" on stock wheels. They are skinny 33s - 255/85/16. The size mentioned above 285/75/17 is the same diameter, but much wider. I haven't done any trimming, bud did put on low profile mudflaps. The wide tires will require the mentioned offset/ backspace and will require trimming plastic and cutting the cab mount.

    Read the first post on my build thread (linked below) for details about my lift.
     
  4. Apr 30, 2017 at 8:20 PM
    #4
    stmpjmpr

    stmpjmpr Well-Known Member

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    I have similar setup. removed front flaps. thats it. will rub a little when doing tight turns. other then that is all good.
    ps. o do not do hardcore wheeling.
     
  5. Apr 30, 2017 at 8:28 PM
    #5
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    I had to cut a bunch inside and set more castor along with CMC, etc. 285/70/17 wluld be the common 285 setup. 285/75/17 is going to get your closer to 34.
     
    lynyrd3 likes this.
  6. May 1, 2017 at 9:50 AM
    #6
    WVUWrestling197

    WVUWrestling197 [OP] New Member

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    I appreciate the help on this as well. Searching around I have found so many different replies, giving me different directions to look at. I really would like to throw on a set of 33x12.50 r17 (Dick Cepeck looks good imo) as opposed to the 285/295 set ups. Is that possible with -12 offset 4.53 Backspacing?

    I've went to the extent of going to my local wheel shop and they are mentioning do not lift it more than 2", do not run 33's, run 285's. You'll need UCA's, etc. But I do see many people running 33's on a 3" lift. Personally I want to do it the right way but also be cost efficient to an extent. I'm not trying to jeopardize reliability for looks. Btw I don't do much offroading other driving up a dirt road to a hunt or fish.

    I'm overwhelmed by the amount of support for being a new user here. I can not appreciate it enough, just seems like every where else has no straight answer.
     
    lynyrd3 likes this.
  7. May 1, 2017 at 9:53 AM
    #7
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    Most of us probably forgot to mention we replaced our UCA's as well. If you are running 285/33 or larger you will want to replace your UCA with a ~3" lift. Some setups require it and others it helps with alignments and other things. Do it right the first time and replace them if you are going higher than 2". They were not wrong telling you that.
     
  8. May 1, 2017 at 10:00 AM
    #8
    WVUWrestling197

    WVUWrestling197 [OP] New Member

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    Ok - Perfect.

    So I'm looking at of course the wheel package, 3", UCA's, Cab Mount Chop?

    I've seen great thread reviews on 5100's, Toytec, Pro Comp for lifts.. any in specific is a good standard lift?

    UCA Recommendations? Heard Total Chaos was solid.
     
    lynyrd3 likes this.
  9. May 1, 2017 at 10:08 AM
    #9
    stickyTaco

    stickyTaco Fuck Cancer

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    PM Marie @HeadStrong Off-Road for recommendations on a suspension setup. It really depends on your budget and what you plan to do with the truck.
     
    nudavinci64 likes this.
  10. May 1, 2017 at 10:08 AM
    #10
    nudavinci64

    nudavinci64 Robert @ Holy Horsepower

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    Boosted Money Pit....
    Can't go wrong with TC. That is what I run. There are a bunch of good options.
     
    lynyrd3 likes this.
  11. May 1, 2017 at 1:11 PM
    #11
    Wiggins

    Wiggins Well-Known Member

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    TRD Sport Hood, ICON 3" Lift - 700lb coils, Total Chaos UCAs 5% Tinted Windows Crystal Front Window Film 2.5 resi shocks front and rear, dakar leaf packs Wheelers Bump Stops All-Pro Offroad APEX Front Plate Bumper, PIAA Fog Lights, PIAA Fog Lights, Black Line-X All-Pro Offroad Skid Plates, Black Line-X All-Pro Offroad APEX Rear Plate Bumper, Side Armor for Plate, Hidden Receiver Hitch, Black All-Pro Offroad APEX Sliders,Line-X All-Pro Offroad APEX Pack Rack, Black Line-X, 16" height ScanTool 427201 OBDLink LX Bluetooth Hankook Dynapro ATM 285/75/16 Vision Manx 16"x8" rims, 4.5" Backspacing Warn M8000-s Winch, Factor55 Flatlink, Factor55 1" Hawse Fairlead RIGID Industries Ditch Lights Tractor Supply Bed Box 260amp H.O. Alternator Big 3 Cable Replacement NorthStar AGM34 battery Pelfreybilt Battery Cage Plefreybilt Fuse Plate BlueSea fuse block Kenwood TS-B2000 Short Wave Radio, Remote face, Pack Rack Mounted Antenna Uniden Bearcat CB Cab Mount Chop (BAMF Inserts) TODO: ARB Air System ARB Rear Air Locker w/ 4.88 gears ARB Front Air Locker w/ 4.88 gears HID Retrofit Headlights Rigid Industries RDS-Series 54" Midnight Edition LED Rigid Industries R2-46 Combo Round Light (x2)
    any of the aftermarket Upper Control Arms are fine, if you're not going to run anything heavy up front (Winch, Armor) then you can do longer springs and some shocks. Lots of vendors here sell them already paired up so you just have to bolt them in when you bolt your new Upper Control Arms on.

    If you want to run 33's with a 3" lift, you can get away with the amount of rubbing you're gonna do at full lock and light compression.

    If you're gonna be stuffing the 33's up in your fenders a lot, you're going to need to do some trimming (Cab mount, pinch weld, etc...)

    You should consider what you're looking at doing in the back as well.

    My first lift was a Old Man Emu front shocks with 887 coils and Dakar leaf packs.

    That performed really well for me when I was using the truck as a daily driver, and screwing around in the flat-ass Florida Trails on the weekend.

    Then my build got out of hand, and now I'm just biding my time and money until I can just do the solid axle and 41" tires. Until then, I'm on 33s with a 3" lift, screwing around in the clay and sand.
     
  12. May 6, 2017 at 11:55 AM
    #12
    WVUWrestling197

    WVUWrestling197 [OP] New Member

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    Ended up snagging the wheels and a set of dick cepeck 33x12.5's.

    Going to tackle the cab mount chop tomorrow, and a 3" lift going on this upcoming week.

    Going to hold off on UCA's for one more month when I get in a better financial situation, any concerns regarding stock UCA's for a couple months at worst case scenario? No off roading other than going fishing this summer, daily driver give or take 20-30 miles per day.
     
  13. May 6, 2017 at 12:05 PM
    #13
    Pigpen

    Pigpen My truck is never clean

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    Northwest Montana
    Vehicle:
    2012 AC Manual 4.0 4x4 Base Model
    Access cab with child seat in the back, yellow wire mod, diff breather relocated to tail light, engine block heater, Leer topper with Yakima tracks and rack, Yakima rack on cab, Ride Rite air bags with Daystar cradles, CBI hidden front hitch, wired for winch front and rear Warn quick connect, Warn x8000i on external carrier, sway bar delete, trailer plug relocated to under bumper, Pelfreybilt IFS and Mid skids, BAMF Tcase skid, ECGS front diff bushing, ARB CKMA12 compressor, 255/85/16 Backcountry MT 3 load E tires on stock steel rims, Toyo M55 tires (same size) on another set of stock steelies, Up2NoGood heated mirror kit, Husky X-act Contour front floor liners, Northstar AGM 24F battery under the hood, Northstar 27F in the cab, Redarc 25 amp DC to DC charger, Pelfreybilt bolt on sliders with kickout and top plates, TRD Pro headlights, Depo smoked tail lights, Energy suspension body mount bushing kit, OME Dakar leaf packs with AAL, OME rear shocks, OME 90021 front shocks with 885 coils, SPC LR UCAs, Up2NoGood 2wd low range mod, 4 Wheel Campers Grandby slide in camper, 4xinnovations high clearance rear bumper, Uniclutch 800 lb/ft clutch
    The two issues you'll run into are: 1 - rubbing, you'll rub slightly different areas before and after replacing the UCAs; and 2 - handling, you won't be able to get high enough caster numbers on your alignment and the truck will wander and the steering will feel loose. Wide wheels/ tires make this much more noticeable.

    Due to the alignment issues, you may end up wearing your new tires unevenly. Don't hold off too long on UCAs. I'd pile up the parts and install all of it at once.

    Also, not all aftermarket UCAs correct caster for lifted applications. Make sure the ones you buy do. I've read of several members spending real money on high end UCAs made for stock height trucks. Once the parts are installed, you can't get that money back!
     

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