Rear End Recall and changing fluid?

But not always available OTC.

 

Correct, l think besides Toyota, Redline is the only other way to get the right spec. The OP was worried about having the warranty voided for switching brands of oil, l would be more concerned of getting it voided for using the incorrect spec oil.

 

This is the 3/8" drive unit--it looks very similar:

 

I was kind of surprised to see my friend using one. He's in his late 60s just 2 or 3 years younger than me, has been racing and wrenching cars in Daytona for 50 years and is set in his ways like all we geezers. I figured it must work quite well for him to be using it but it's too rich for my budget, $400 or so for the 1/2" and $300 for the 3/8"...

 

500 ft/lbs for the bigger one? Holy moly, I am probably a wimp but seems like it would be hard to hang on to that short handle with that amount of torque.

 

When I changed mine for the first time back at 30K miles, I used Mobil One 75-90. I called Toyota and they confirmed that would not void warranty as it met the specs (GL5 rated).

 

...and, it's what most dealership have in their tanks.
Still, I would have got it in writing.

 

I would have got it in writing too, im sure 75w-140 has a GL-5 Spec but that does not mean its right. 20w-50 has the latest API Spec of SN but l doubt Toyota would warranty a engine problem if you use it.

 

Go for it (in writing) if that makes you feel better about using 75-90.

 

Near instantaneous torque from the hammer blows, not a sustained 500 lb·ft--but nonetheless I bet you do have to have a good two-hand grip...

 

Makes sense.

 

Depending on where you live, for instance South Florida, 20W-50 would be fine--the engine would be fine and Toyota would never know. Barrow Alaska would be a different story. I run both my wife's '03 Highlander (215k miles) on SuperTech 10W-40 High Mileage, It has been on that for the last 120k or so); and plan to load my '09 Tacoma (138k miles) with SuperTech 10W-30 Synthetic in 2 to 3 weeks when I do my first change (the dealer loaded it with that 5W-20 whale piss before I bought it which was OK from October 'til now).

Both SuperTech oils are produced by Citgo (as are many other brands) and "meet or exceed all new car manufacturers requirements)". The 10W-40 is SAE Service Grade SN, SM, SL, and SJ; the 10W-30 synthetic meets SAE SV and SM, and ILSAC GF-5.

Here are the MSDSs for each:

SuperTech 10W-40 High Mileage MSDS (PDF, 124 kB)
SuperTech 10W-30 Full Synthetic MSDS (PDF, 122 kB)

 

Lots of guys on bobistheoilguy site swear by SuperTech

 

I've read some engineering articles on other forums that synthetic fluid is not recommended for differentials. It's great for motor oil, but it does not transfer heat well. Google around and you can find an offroad engineering firm that did some serious testing and found syn fluid caused problems with rear diffs.

 

It's good oil, I ran the 10W-30 synthetic in my SL500 Mercedes for the 3-1/2 years I owned it. There is a SuperTech Full Synthetic ATF, also produced by Citgo, that meets the Toyota WS specs:

 

On the 3rd Gens they require 0W-20, not sure how they would handle that.

 

My oe fluid was super contaminated after 3000 KMs. True story

 

Impact guns are the tool of choice for dealer monkeys. Mentioned that in another rear end leak thread too. I've seen it done as well when I was a line tech over 17 years ago. Those monkeys really don't give a shit. Torque wrenches are for dummies apparently, even back then.

 

General rule of thumb for techs is to blast shit with an impact. Dealers reward those who get jobs done quickly and not those who did that job necessarily correctly.

 

Yup, they flag hours to put food on the table. Mostly commission based. You have an hourly rate that you're guaranteed if you don't make the 80 hours upselling and getting those gravy RO's. Warranty work sucks and pays half the book rates listed for CP tickets.