DIY LCA Bushing Replacement 2005+ Tacoma (4x4)

Yes they are pressed in but sometimes they are not the exact micrometer and have tolerance to move. They are under a lot of stress when turning. The tacks just prevent them from moving which is where all my popping was coming from

 

They move because MOOG (and other brands it seems) doesn't understand fits or can't produce a product that fits.

 

Anyone else besides Sevi88 pair the ES bushings with MOOG hardware? I'm about half way through and hit a dead end. The inner sleeve is 1/16" bigger in diameter than the respective hole that it enters on the smaller bushings. The large bushings seem to work fine.

Since I'm this far on the install, I may as well turn the sleeves down on a lathe to make them fit accordingly. They're 0.205" wall thickness so I think it'll still be safe.

 

Read all the pages and didn't see anyone mention this: When you re-installed the LCAs, did you lube the outside washers before sliding them into the chassis? I think I read someone having to chisel OEM washers that had frozen with rust to the chassis bosses. With 100 lbs of torque, they shouldn't slide off but better to ask and not be sorry. What lube was used? Anti-seize or bearing grease, or?

Thanks to all who have taken the time to post their experiences. Ideally, I would like to get my hands on some OEM LCAs and take my time refurbishing them with new bushings, but they are not easy to locate. I'm leaning towards buying some Chinese LCA's - AM Auto has them for $180 and a 10-year warranty. I'll keep looking for used OEMs ...

Did notice Centric now carries LCA's, 622.44064/622.44066, but warranty is 3K miles or 90 days. Also noticed on Rock Auto that AC Delco has SPC lookalike cam bolts, 45K1046; and Moog lookalikes, 45K0223, for significantly more $$. And Mevotech now make cam bolts, MS86036, but I have not seen any pics of them; but the pricing on Rock Auto matches the SPC lookalikes.

 

Here's an update on the ES bushings with MOOG hardware:

Yes, the two DO work together WITH some modifying. I chose to go ahead and turn the smaller inner bushing sleeves down on my lathe (to 1.1810" OD) because I was already knee deep in the install and couldn't get Whiteline bushings in Canada for 10-15 business days. That was no buenos, otherwise I totally would've gone the Whiteline route for ease of install.

I tacked the outter sleeves to the control arms themselves in accessible locations for easy removal if needed, and they seem to be holding up so far. I would recommend doing this for any rubber bushing you may have in the arms other than OEM or Whitelines, because I don't trust these aftermarket press fit tolerances. They're all over the map. My smaller MOOG bushing sleeves worked there way out and were just spinning/clunking in the control arms after 17,000km (1 year).

Side note about the moog washers: They don't need to be ground off like in the ES instructions to be removed. The are pressed into the inside of the inner sleeve. Just use a punch or cold chisel and tap around the edge to wiggle them loose.

Also check your LCA welds! One of mine had a hairline crack and porosity through it, so I ground it out and patched it back up. Welded the unfinished undersides too.

 

Very nice! You should get at least 100,000 out of that set up. Glad to see everything worked out with a little bit of modification.

 

I contacted Mevotech to ask if the bushings were poly, specifically MS86409/10, and a tech advisor, Ken Hau, said the bushings are a blend of rubber and poly.

Also, did I see you used grease to install the bushings into the arms? The outer shells should run dry as greasing them increases the risk the bushing will slide.

 

My 2012 has one seized Cam bolt and the tabs are bent. I'm looking to replace all of the bushings and cams and bolts.

Without going back through all of this, any updates of good stuff other then the OEM bushings and cams and bolts?

I'm going to install TC tabs also.

I've been spraying down all of the bolts and cams with some PB over the past week hoping when I tackle the job that seized one isn't too much of a bitch.

I have new 6112 going on and I'm ordering Camburg's Ball Joint UCA so with those and the new LCA shit I should be good.... right?

Thanks!

 

I was all set to replace my LCA bushings but also got stopped by seized cams. For me, its the front cam. The bolt slides out easy; it's the cam that is seized to the bushings inner sleeve. I had to put everything back together and try another day. I will try pushing out the seized cam with a bolt and cup; if that fails, I have the reciprocating saw ready to go. I got Febest cams from Amazon.

4840960020 - Cam Sub-Assembly For Toyota - Febest

https://smile.amazon.com/4840960020...=1488943516&sr=8-2&keywords=tacoma+febest+cam

 

How are these holding up? Did they come with everything needed? I know Energy says to re-use the outer sleeve.

 

please let me know how this goes because Im about to do the same. So frustrating because Im really busy this onth too

 

Whiteline kit comes with everything, no need to reuse stock junk. IMO that's pretty damn stupid of ES, especially with most of the LCA bushing hardware rusting and seizing

 

I did the driver-side two weekends ago; cam was rusty but not seized. Removed the rust and greased it well before replacing. Rear bolt was not that bad, but greased it well also. Will check back when I re-attempt pass side in about 2 weeks.

 

Finally got mine un seized, still buying the stuff to redo them but at least I can go get it aligned for now. Was so hard I broke the 19 mm socket cranking on it

 

My passenger side front bushing cam was too rusted to break free. Hit it with propane and it budged a mm but could not push/pull out the cam sleeve. The bolt that goes through came out easy and rust-free but the cam is rusted shut to the bushing inner sleeve. Got the reciprocating saw and took only a couple of minutes to saw through both sides of the bushing to cut off the cam sleeve. Used the recommended Freud Diablo # DS0908CF blade. Was quite surprised how quickly, to me, this blade cut through the metal. Replaced the OEM cam with a Febest brand, #0132-005. This is the only part you'll need, unless the rear bolt assembly is frozen there also. The Febest fit well with the other LCA front bolts and alignment parts.

Installed Dorman LCA's and will refurbish the OEM LCAs, the driver-side of which has been refurbished with a Moog BJ (made in USA) and a Mevotech front bushing (made in Taiwan) and Moog rear bushing (made in China). Should have got Mevotechs all around - the Mevotech had a much more secure press-in; the Moog went in too easy. One reason is that the bushing contact area is but a quarter-inch for the Moog; whereas, the Mevotech had about half an inch. Live and learn. Got Mevotech bushings all around for the passenger side.

 

Discovered this new, to me, polyurethane products vendor at Toyota Nation: Siberian Bushing. They make ready-to-press poly bushings for UCA and LCA. Part #s for LCA are 1-06-1434 (front bushing) and 1-06-1433 (rear). Would have tried them if I had known about them sooner.

http://siberianbushing.com/catalog/TOYOTA/USA/TACOMA/GRN250/2007


Front ($30) and rear ($39).

 

Pics on OP have disappeared

 

Sub

 

One thing I do remember about the Whiteline bushings is that the kit came with different size washers and sleeves. But the instructions were pretty good and gave specs on what went where.

Did you end up having to drill the sleeves out at all? I'm balls deep in the install and have found that my new front moog bolts won't go in any supplied sleeves. Plan on drilling it out a bit, but was curious if you had the issue.