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boostedka's Turbo 3RZ Tacoma

Discussion in '1st Gen. Builds (1995-2004)' started by boostedka, Jun 3, 2016.

  1. May 20, 2017 at 3:52 AM
    #261
    rngr

    rngr Aix sponsa

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    That skid though...

    :drool:
     
    boostedka[OP] likes this.
  2. Jun 3, 2017 at 1:02 PM
    #262
    kurt4726

    kurt4726 New Member

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    I love the skid plate!
     
    boostedka[OP] likes this.
  3. Jun 3, 2017 at 2:06 PM
    #263
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey Kurt! Thanks for checking it out. Hopefully we can get this MS figured out soon
    :fingerscrossed:
     
  4. Jun 3, 2017 at 2:53 PM
    #264
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I haven't been to the strip in 10+ years! I used to drag my 240sx there back in the day. Maybe I'll take it out if I can get my stand alone figured out I'll do a couple 4wd runs. Like you said it would turn a few heads! o_O
     
  5. Jun 3, 2017 at 7:01 PM
    #265
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    What are you waiting for?
     
  6. Jun 3, 2017 at 7:06 PM
    #266
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Got most everything wired in. Just trying to get the crank signal/rpm synced. I'm having issues with the VE wiring. I'm hoping to rewire them tomorrow and try to crank it again. Hopefully all goes well
    :fingerscrossed:
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2018
    MadTaco461 likes this.
  7. Jun 3, 2017 at 7:10 PM
    #267
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Torspd Custom Turbo kit [] Borg Warner 9180EFR Turbo [] Haltech Elite 2500 [] TiAL Q BOV [] TiAL V44 Wastegate @ 15psi [] CP Pistons [] CP Carrillo Rods [] ARP Head studs [] ARP Main Studs [] ARP Header - Head Studs [] Ported Heads w/ 1mm oversized valves intake/exhaust [] Brian Crower Forged Stroker Crank [] Darton M.I.D. Sleeved Block [] Kelford Camshafts [] Torspd 160* T-stat mod [] APR Large Fuel Rail [] Walbro 460 LPH E85 Fuel Pump [] FueLab FPR [] APR T56 Conversion Kit [] KP RACING Built T56 [] McLeod Racing Custom Twin Disk Clutch [] One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft [] MGW Shifter [] Custom lowering kit [] Ohlins Front Coilovers [] QA1rear shocks [] Custom Ron Davis Radiator [] Dual SPAL Electric Fans []
    :fingerscrossed: Sooo close!
     
    boostedka[OP] likes this.
  8. Jun 3, 2017 at 7:17 PM
    #268
    MadTaco461

    MadTaco461 BRO runner

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    That's awesome. Hope she fires up.
     
    boostedka[OP] likes this.
  9. Jun 4, 2017 at 8:26 AM
    #269
    Clay_916

    Clay_916 Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if this is relevant anymore but I would trust your afr numbers over theirs. A tailpipe meter is going to be pretty inaccurate. As for the boost, that's a bit tricky when elevation is involved. If you are able to go off MAP i would use that. I've never found a consensus on how all these different meters work (or the same?) but my digital boost gauge reads 0 with the engine off at any elevation. The only situation in which their meter would read higher than yours is if they had set ambient pressure to 0 psi and anything above that as "boost" AND if your gauge was set to 0 psi at sea level pressure. Using MAP would give a quick answer but the difference from sea level to ~5,000 ft is about 2.4 psi.
     
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  10. Jun 4, 2017 at 3:08 PM
    #270
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That makes a lot of sense @Clay_916. Once I can hopefully get this Megasquirt working correctly I'll be using a MAP sensor so I'll be able to get a better idea of what's going on. About a month ago I swapped out the WG spring to something slightly lower so now my gauge is reading ~6.5psi at full boost. This helps keep it on the safer side for now
     
  11. Jun 8, 2017 at 10:24 AM
    #271
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I finally got everything working correctly with the Megasquirt3 and 550cc injectors. Initially I couldn't get it to start up...turned out I had mixed up the 2 crank VR wires when I was planning out the wiring for the PNP harness :facepalm:. Luckily it was something easy enough to fix. Now I get to focus my attention on tuning my fuel map! :bananadance: Once I can get it decently drivable under boost, I'll wire up and install a 4 port EBC to get the boost up to ~10psi. :transformer:
    I'm attaching a few random pics of the progress for anyone interested. If you want to see pics of something specific, just let me know and I'll see what else I have to post up.

    IMG_0572[1].jpg
    IMG_0597[1].jpg
    IMG_0608[1].jpg
    IMG_0611[1].jpg
    IMG_0625[1].jpg
    IMG_0627[1].jpg
     
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  12. Jun 8, 2017 at 10:25 AM
    #272
    Gaunt596

    Gaunt596 Well-Known Member

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    I suggest finding a steady state dyno if you can, makes it wayyyy easier to tune vs trying to road tune it
     
  13. Jun 8, 2017 at 10:29 AM
    #273
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I would definitely like to do some dyno tuning as well. I have a Dynojet dyno about 45 minutes from my house. It's mostly freeway driving to get there with a few hills to climb along the way. So I'll have to do a decent amount of road tuning 1st to get it to that point.
     
  14. Jun 8, 2017 at 10:41 AM
    #274
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Ain't nobody got time for that! ;)

    During my Haltech tuning, time was the critical element. I drove, and my friend made the adjustments. Started in the neighborhood, then on from there. About an hour of driving and we were done.

    Then some fine combing was necessary after a few more days.

    Moral is, have a competent person either driving for you, or doing the tuning.
     
  15. Jun 8, 2017 at 2:07 PM
    #275
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I got a deal on some used Deaver J59 8 leafs to replace my Icon 3 leaf AAL. Also ordered some new bushings for them as well

    IMG_0620.jpg
    IMG_0619.jpg
     
  16. Jun 18, 2017 at 10:01 AM
    #276
    Jstand

    Jstand Well-Known Member

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    Did you drop your fuel tank or take off your bed to change the pump. If you just drop the tank that sounds like something I could do.
     
  17. Jun 18, 2017 at 10:46 AM
    #277
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I did the bed thing but not completely off. I unbolted the drivers side completely and loosened the bolts on the passenger side. Then I just removed the gas cap and lifted the one side of the bed with my shoulder and stuck a jack stand between the frame and the bed. This gave me enough room to remove the pump assembly. From there it was what's in the pics then reinstall. I think the whole process took about 1.5 hours
     
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  18. Jun 19, 2017 at 2:43 PM
    #278
    Jstand

    Jstand Well-Known Member

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    Was there a specific part number to the walbro 190 that you used and is the stock regulator ok. It sounds like the next thing for me to do.
     
  19. Jun 19, 2017 at 3:58 PM
    #279
    boostedka

    boostedka [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It's the pump that comes with the URD 7th injector kit. I had it left from my previous truck that I put back to stock before selling. If I was buying a pump specifically for this I'd probably get either the Walbro 255 or the AEM pump that Brice used in his truck since they all cost about the same.
     
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  20. Jun 20, 2017 at 7:26 AM
    #280
    Jstand

    Jstand Well-Known Member

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    I don't know if you have done this but out of curiosity have you ever run any 1/8th or 1/4 mile times if so how did it do
     
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