5vz Rebuild First Timer Noobtastic Thread

I'm thinking of buying a long block w/ a blown head gasket and disassembling it to the short block form. If the seller gives me a good enough deal then I'd like to replace all the seals while I'm replacing the head gaskets and maybe get the heads resurfaced if need be. I could do / get a leak down test on my engine to see if I have heads that are good in case I need to swap one out from my existing engine if one of the heads on the long block turns out to be cracked. The seller sounds like he's motivated to get it out of his place - taking up space. He said he was blowing white smoke and the temp rose. Other than that not much info yet - if he really wants to get rid of it then what should I be expecting to pay for it considering if it's low enough and the whole thing turns out to be a learning experience I'll still be satisfied if I can still afford a JDM swap later when I recoup funds in the worst case scenario.

What should I be looking at in terms of price for the parts I need to build the engine to the point where it's ready to be swapped in for my engine (my engine has all good parts - pulleys etc. have been replaced when needed) - I assume I'll need a timing belt kit since I can have a fresh start that way. Here's what I'm looking at so far:

https://www.yotashop.com/5vzfe-3-4l-engine-rebuild-kit-ek965/

I am considering this route for a few reasons:

* The engine in my truck is running pretty poorly and I'm not sure how well maintained it was throughout its life - I know I could start with the basics, spark plugs, wires, etc., but all of that has been replaced in the last couple years by the previous owner (have paperwork) and it's still running meh and it's at 200k.

* I want to be able to fix my own truck with a decent knowledge of its systems

* I want the truck to be reliable

* I am considering a JDM swap that at least would cost $1800 installed - if I can build an engine and have someone help me install it for that much then I'd rather to that for learning about how all the parts move and work together.

* No one ever will pay as much attention to my truck as me

* Single, no kids, figure this would be the time to learn this

* It'll be a lot easier to work on the engine when it's out of a vehicle

Issues with my plan are that I'm limited on space. The long block has had it's oil pan taken off so I'm hoping / guessing I can disassemble it and squirrel away the parts in my apartment. I know the block will be pretty heavy and I might have to find a way to store it until I can get the heads all tidied up.

I also have very little experience with this kind of stuff. I've replaced spark plugs and done a few other things that are beyond the average oil change level project. That said I've been watching the head gasket replacement videos and I'm pretty meticulous with this kind of stuff.



I know I'll need a lb-in torque wrench and some 1/4" sockets and extensions (most of my wrenching has been on the 1/2" drive big stuff like suspension components and brakes), a machined straight edge if I want to check the heads for warping myself before taking them to a machine shop, and some plastic scrapers to remove the gasket material off of the heads.

I'll need to find someone to help me install (and possibly reassemble the long block) the engine - that gives me a $950-$1600 budget for the project before I pay someone to help me install it (going rate for installation is $950 I've been told by a couple shops).

@Speed Freek

A little info on me - I've been in school for the past 8 years (BA, MA, credential) and earned a 4.0 each semester except for one frikin B in an online course so I'm pretty good at reading instructions and following them. You can see the stuff I've been up to with my truck(s) on my build pages - the first gen's is admittedly pretty weak because I've been super busy. Hopefully that will change this summer


Alright, let me know what you think: learning is just as (not moreso however) important as reliability in the long run with this project. Cost is not important to me as long as it doesn't get to be significantly more expensive than the $1800-$2500 JDM swap (high end is with new seals / water pump from the local shop). Muchas Gracias

 

Sounds like one well thought out plan hombre. You already realize it might not be the most cost effective solution. You're already taking note of surprises that will inevitably come up.
I'm jelly, just wrapping up building a motor for a BMW toaster R100 bike. The land cruiser of the bike world. Engine builder has to be the best job in the world, lol. I'd love to tear down a 3.4 and rebuild it.

 

This happened:



Blown headgasket, $180. Think I'm going to tear it down to the block and build it again so I know all the issues it might be experiencing. Got the camshafts off one head. Having fun. Going pitifully slow

 

Got the heads off today. Only scraped one knuckle lol.

Artsy pic of the lower intake.



Halfway there



And done for today



Tomorrow gotta get the pistons and the crankshaft and that should be about it. Gotta figure out how much it will cost to get the machining on the block and heads done. Anyone know the size of the bolt that goes in the end of the crankshaft to turn it? That would be good to know so I can pick one up and get working on it tomorrow. Muchas gracias!

 

Were you able to see where the head gasket had blown after getting the heads off?

 

Looked like the cylinder closest to the firewall on the passenger side. The top of the piston head was rusty and all the others were normal looking. I'll post pics in a second.

Driver's side:



Passenger side:



Close-up of suspect cylinder:

 

There was some rust on the intake cam on the passenger side that may have to do with the leak, although the worst of it did not appear over the suspect cylinder. I've been advised to replace it.

 

This is great

 

Oh boy

 

Here are the spark plugs. They're in order with the left of the pic representing the firewall so the passenger side is on the bottom. It was weird - the cylinder I think was the one leaking with all the rust had its spark plug really torqed in there. I mean way beyond what all the others felt like. Also the two cylinders by losesr to the firewall had Drnso spark plugs and the rest had NGK. I don't know if the Densos were original or something? Who replaces some of the spark plugs?

 

I just picked up a 3.4 for 80$. Came with ecu, and complete harness, engine and body. Might have a blown head gasket. Once I get time, I'll do a leak down test

 

Great deal!

 

Im pretty sure that the 3.4 had ngk on one side, and denso on the other. Kinda odd, but I've read it a few times.

 

But this had 2 NGK on each side. The Denso plugs were only in the cylinders next to the firewall on each side. Is that what you meant or NGK for one bank and Denso for the other? This felt random like some skimping out on the maintenance.

 

I mean denso on one side, and ngk on the other. I would assume you are correct in your assumption.

 

That's how the dealership does it, same as how they came from factory...not really sure why. But it's normal to have 2 different brands of plugs.

 

I was just looking back through your pictures (because I Love the 3.4 and I might be going down this road soon). Are you doing all this work in the bed of your truck? No shed/shop/kitchen table?

I've done both of my motor swaps outside in gravel... I feel for you if you are rebuilding this engine in the bed of your truck.

 

lol yeah - being in school full time and working part time for 8 years (even with 2 part time jobs) hasn't left me with much of a budget for where I want to live. I rent a basement apartment so I can move all the stuff into there once I'm done disassembling the block. I'll buy an engine stand for reassembly.

 

Thanks for the info. Interesting - is that what everyone does for the 5vz spark plugs? I think this thing is at least 18 years old since it came out of a T100 - I wonder when the last time the plugs were changed. Is that how all of you guys are running new plugs too?

 

I don't know anyone that does that personally when doing their own plugs...I just put straight Denso iridiums in mine. Not sure what Toyota's reasoning is but maybe someone else knows