Steering rack - 2 specific q's

I know this is out there somewhere but I haven't yet found it and I believe them to be pertinent:

First of all, for steering rack R&R I keep seeing recos to get a new "o-ring" which goes on top of the rack near the splined input shaft. From what I've seen in pics it looks more like a rubber dust cup? Regardless, WHERE can I get this o-ring quickly? I don't suppose anyone has a Napa or Autozone or O'Reilly part #? Failing that, a part number I can furnish to my dealer? Amazon source?

OKAY, second question: is the splined input shaft KEYED? I understand to immobilize the steering wheel BUT how does one assure you don't wind up one spline off?? I'm ASSuming it's keyed?

Thank you!

edit: upon reflection perhaps the input shaft is flatted and not splined at all? I obviously have not seen a rack uninstalled, out of the vehicle but I'm trying to understand how to reference proper rotational orientation BEFORE I tear it down LOL

 

@Dirty Pool
@mechanicjon

 

Take a tie down and Hook it to your head rest don't let your steering wheel turn after you have it centered. Spinning it ruins your airbag clock spring... I haven't done it on our trucks but on every other car and truck I've done it on it's not splined it's got a flat side.. your steering rack should come centered take a measurement... you will see it when you see your replacement.

 

Wow, so that'd mean the steering wheel can't move AT ALL, it'd only take a few degrees to get off with the input shaft splines which are relatively fine.

So what if where you tie off the steering wheel happens to not line up EXACTLY? At that point you're FORCED to choose turning the steering shaft (aka intermediate) A LITTLE one way or the other.....

The reman has a through hole and even includes a cotter pin -- which, if used, would assure proper alignment but 99% sure there's no cotter pin anywhere around the rag joint?

 

Also this reman doesn't appear centered....if measuring from the inner boot clamp to the end of the inner tie rod I get about 8.25" vs 6.75"

Should I try to get the same distance before install?

 

mark the shaft at the separation points with a paint pen or marker to ensure proper re installation. O ring isn't a part # for after market, they go by size and material. You want rubber o ring. Just take it with you where ever and match the size exactly.

 

Sure, that's assuming you separate the intermediate shaft. But how do you assure you slide onto the actual input shaft on the rack itself correctly? (As shown in post #4?). Or does it not matter that much?

And should I attempt to center this rack or is it supposed to be offset with one inner tie rod further from the rack body than the other?

 

Why would it be difficult to mark the input shaft? Yes, centering the rack will help you with wheel alignment, although, you should get your wheels aligned afterward.

 

You can't mark the new input shaft on the new rack (as pictured, bottom pic, post 4), it's not in the vehicle and thus no frame of reference to the intermediate shaft which is presently in the vehicle.

Centering the rack itself will only assure complete travel lock-to-lock. But it does not affect toe. Toe is dictated by by how far you thread in each outer tie rod.

 

Keep rack centered and steering wheel. Once installed if wheel is not straight get it aligned. They will use the tie rods to recenter the steering if off a spline.

 

Guess you'll just have to measure the old rack and compare to new, then make adjustments

 

I would say its best to just get an alignment afterwards. Better to spend $75 than trash other parts/tires.

Also, best way I have seen is measuring the outer rods to line up.

 

Ok not sure anyone was tracking but this is what I was questioning. I made a mark on the rag joint and a mark on the old rack.

Then I set old rack and new rack on the bench and EYEBALLED that mark onto the new rack. But again, this is FAR from perfect and EASY to be off a spline.

I also took my tape measure and centered the rack as best I could measuring over the already installed boots.

I HIGHLY recommend anti-seize on the steering rack input, I could not get the splines to slide thus I separated the rag joint. I also used a round wire brush to clean out the splines once I was able to pound it apart on the bench.

Apologies, I don't know why the one photo seems to be appearing twice.

 

Oh and I have yet to see or find this fabled o-ring. Just don't know what everyone is talking about there, sorry