Run to the Hills! - Jason's Glacial Pace Colorado GTFO Build

I'm compensating.

 

Thanks, Mike!

That's exactly what I was looking for. My RAT skid is a little different that's your Skid Row, but here's what I'm thinking:

• A flat piece of plate plasma cut to shape with three mounting holes in it for the crossmember interface.
• Use the old holes in the mounting lip for rosette welds like you did and run a bead along the lip as well.
• Since I wasn't thinking ahead with the crossmember, I'll drill three holes in the crossmember and carefully tack weld bolts through the holes so that I can just mount the skid over those and run down some nuts.

Seems like that might not be too much of a pain in the ass. I just need to measure and draw something up to get it plasma/laser cut.

And this will probably be what makes me finally buy a welder.

ETA: I might grab some scrap metal and add some stiffeners to the skids as well once I have a MIG.

 

Last part would be smart, maybe like an " X " or something on the main part that would get smacked. Once I get a welder/ know somebody closer I'll be doing that along with a belly skid

 

Thoughts on tubb sealing and keeping the water out...
I see talk of snorkels, and leaky grommets. I propose that you guys are possibly going about this in the wrong direction. It looks like you guys are thinking of going deeper than your average creek crossing

Instead of trying to keep the water out, give it a place to drain.
Way back in the day, and actually still current on some high end fun buggies, they had a little thing in the floor called a drain hole. It usually had a rubber or space age polymer plug in it.

Just a suggestion.

 

The issue is the floor design. If you keep the carpet, water soaks in the carpet and molds. The drains are under the carpet so you gotta pull it to drain it. Even with drains the water will pool in areas that the drain doesn't service. That's why I went to vinyl, because I know inevitably I will get water in again, and with everything painted and protected I don't really care that much if I do because it won't mold like it did with carpet and jute padding.

 

I was just fuckin with you guys more than anything.

 

I definitely picked up on that

 

Lol dick.

 

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on a winch with a synthetic rope, but I've got a few questions for the big brains:

Any reason to stay away from a Warn M Series? That's what I'm gravitating towards.

Is the M8000 enough to pull a 1st Gen outta some sloppy shit?

The overkill factor appeals to me. Would a M12000 fit and use the standard mounting pattern?

How big of a pain in the dick is relocating the solenoid?

Will a Factor 55 help me pull chicks?

---

For reference, this will mount to an Addicted tube bumper and I'd really like to avoid hacking up the bottom of my grille. Let's pretend that I have sufficient monies to not have to cheap out.

Thanks!

@Star-Lord
@Squeaky Penguin
@Blackdawg
@aero3685
@cynicalrider
@alee891
@3378jakesr5

 

I've been in situations where my 10K was barley sufficient for a single line pull. I wouldn't recommend any less.

My solenoid is under the hood and I have in-cab controls. Super convenient to not worry about the solenoid or hook anything up when I need to use the winch. Adds some work, but not a ton. Worth doing IMO.

If the factor 55 pulls the chicks let me know, cause the Kings and ADS' aren't working.



But seriously, don't bother. Use the damn hook. It works fine.

 

Excellent input, Brett! Thanks!

I'm seriously considering the M12000 in large part because I'd rather have more pulling force than I need than not enough. I just need to see if the from factor is the same, specifically the mounting pattern and the distance from it to the fairlead mount.

 

Make sure to measure the mounting space on the Addicted Bumper plate. Scotty made them around 8k winch dimensions. My 9k ComeUp winch did not fit width wise on his plate bumper. I had to cut the sides to allow for it to fit. I know another guy that had to do this for a Warn 9k winch as well.

 

Thanks for the heads up! I'm gonna go take some measurements right meow.

 

My 9.5 works well. Like Brett, I too have the selenoid under the hood, though my controls are different. I JB welded the controller connection to the grill so it's tucked away and can effortlessly connect.

You already know my thoughts on Factor 55.

 

Thanks, Austin!

Sounds so far like 9500 is the lowest rating I would look into.

And I like expo bling as much as the next douchebag, but I'm only kidding about the F55, especially after your experience. I'll be spending enough on the winch and rope, so I'll happily stick with the hook!

 

My solenoid is mounted inside the bumper. I moved the control plug to the cab though so i can use the normal controller in cab but also out of cab if the situation is sketch or if I need to be out of the truck for whatever reason.

I have an 8k winch. But will upgrade to a 10k. I know the XO2 smitty built fit in bumpers well. 10k as well.

 

Excellent!

Thanks for chiming in, Monte!

 

Yeah sorry id post photos but am on the road!

 

No worries, bud!

Drive safe!

 

Hacking the bottom of the grill all depends on how far you extended out the frame. I already know I will likely need to hack mine up which hurts even more now that I have a fancy one.