Adventures of Yotagurl & Taun Taun (slash build thread..)

They also break easier

But they look cool and don't turn which is one thing I liked about them

 

Do you mean the locking hubs break easier or ADD, I've read bad things about both, hahah

Edit: CVs break easier? Is that cause they're like a bit thinner than ADD style ones?

 

Yeah the CVs are weaker for manual hubs

 

Yeah I did see a thread on that. Not sure it's a huge enough difference for me to change my mind though. cvs aren't that expensive to replace anyway. Guess we'll have to see what happens

 

I wish I found this thread before my purchase, but question, why the switch from Icon to King? What are the characteristic differences you've noticed between the two?

 

Hey, well my decision to switch had a lot of factors. One being that I didn't enjoy how stiff the icons were. I don't like the go-super-fast style off roading. Icons soften out at higher speeds, but are a bit harsh at low speeds. The Kings are a much softer ride all around, low and higher speeds. Feels great on the street as well.
I know I could have had them re-valved for lower speeds but it wasn't in the cards for me. Not worth it considering the time and travel.
I'm glad I went with the kings up front. I still have Icon 2.0 remote resi in the rear and I plan on switching that up too.

 

UHHHHGGGggg!!! Wish I had this data earlier hahaha. I knew generally speaking on other platforms Kings are softer, but for whatever stupid reason thought they were not that soft for the 1st gen.

 

Did you already purchase Icons?

 

Don't lie, silver looks so much better with some blue bling instead of black

 

this is so true. lol


not gonna lie, I've been contemplating having my manual hubs power coated blue to match... haha i'm so lame

 

Yep, the price was right- the kings price kept increasing when building them out to be equivalent to what Icon had ready to go right off the shelf- for instance the price you see online for 1st gen King rears are for stock ride height, add $200 if you have any kind of lift in the back.

I have the CDCV option in the front and hoped full soft would be similar to a linear at slow speed, but even on soft the rocky slow parts were really rough. At speed I'm really happy with them, and on the road they are not too stiff, but I wouldn't mind softer. Maybe some time from now when they are worn and it comes time to either rebuild or sell cheap, I'll do the latter and go King. I can already see if I do a slow Big Bear run with a group its going to be bad, I kind of have to bomb through to make the ride bearable. I wonder why Icon is on this digressive cool-aid- maybe thought the challenge of making a shock with the 'best' of both worlds was appealing, but for me its just producing a confusing ride- at certain speeds its a gamble how the feedback is going to feel, and at very slow speed it just flat out sucks.

 

I should probably dedicate a few posts to whats been going on with the truck too...

I have been collecting parts for the manual hub 4x4 conversion.
So far I have;
Drive shaft and interior bezel courtesy of @Medina33
manual hubs, spindles and cv assembly courtesy of @seanpistol
Front diff, picking up this sunday courtesy of @Kens04Taco

I plan on having the hubs rebuilt and swap the stock spindles for Solo Motorsports 4wd fabricated spindles.

Still in need of;
J-shift transfer case
A-340F output shaft
and other shit i'm probably forgetting at the moment...

If anyone has any leads, please let me know! Thanks!

 

Icon can rebuild them with a "low speed valving stack" to soften them up.

 

Yeah i feel the same.
Do you have any preload on the springs? if you can afford to sacrifice some height it might make the ride a bit softer. At least thats my understanding..

 

At that bother and pricing increase, IMO the purchase decision goes back to King. Why not have the low speed valving stack right out of the gate? Does it come at a cost at how well it soaks up impact at higher speed? Would be interesting to see Icon provide dyno graphs of what these mods do- would suck to make it softer at slow speed and then go from being able to handle whoops at 50mph but now only able to do it at 40mph or less. If it comes at no cost, I wonder why an off road shock doesn't already come tuned that way, are they trying to make the truck handle like a car on road?

Glad to see I'm not alone on this. I kept it at their prefixed ride height, I have the slightest rake so I don't think I'll lift the front anymore, especially at the cost of ride quality. If I get a tube bumper and upgraded skid, I might have to start pre-loading though...

 

well if you lower the coils a bit it will get rid of your rake and soften the ride, thats what i did for mine- mostly to only get rid of my bro lean, but the coil overs are much cushier (but still responsive)

 

You should hit up Wyait at RST for a t-case
http://www.rocksolidtoys.com

Or Calmini
http://www.calminitruck.com

Or even Marlin Crawler
http://www.marlincrawler.com

 

thanks!!!

 

Wyait does a lot of 2wd to 4wd conversions as well as solid axle conversions. He has a good source for finding j shift t-cases

 

thanks, i'll see if i can get a hold of him and pick his brain a bit