Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Here is a thread about the ripping sheet metal. Ignore the BS the plays out after the first initial couple of useful posts.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...river-side-wheel-well-not-the-battery.484715/

 

@AJT DESIGN can probably do this for you. He has ones that say "TACO".
https://www.ajtdesign-llc.com/product-page/battery-clamp

 

Thanks. Just ordered a mount for the passenger side.

 

I get nervous seeing a metal plate that close to all the terminals though.

 

what is this!?!?!

 

I was looking at the ctek 250s paired with the smartpass but it was kinda of pricey.... @Crom may be better to chime in

 

Should worry about all the weight on the front support as well. It'll put a hell of a beating into deforming it.

 

Finally got my dual battery setup completed!

100 Watt Renogy panel mounted under Prinsu crossbars:


Wired to Wanderer charge controller, then direct to house battery:


1/0 wire from house battery up to the ML-ACR + aux fuse panel for all accessories.


All wired up to the in-cab switch:


Tested out on two 4-day trips now and I couldn't be happier with the setup! Now I just need to test my ARB fridge's ability to keep ice cream frozen in 80 degree heat!

Thanks to @Nate87 for the help!

 

Do you have the back seat removed? That's where I was considering mounting my solar controller but I'm told it won't have enough ventilation.

 

Hey guys, if i wanted to hook up a second battery under the bed would there be any safety concerns? And if the under bed battery was a xspower d3100 and the oem batt was under the hood, wouldnt they kill each other?

 

No I don't have the back seat removed. I monitored the temp of the controller in ~85 degree heat all day in direct sun and it didn't seem to heat up, but I'm keeping an eye on it.

 

It was 95 degrees here in Pennsylvania yesterday. Inside the cab was crazy hot. My only alternative is to build some sort of base to mount it to and hang it from the bed track on the cab side (I have an A.R.E. topper). That will give it plenty of ventilation, but it will require cutting holes in the bed to run the wires.

 

I'd be curious to see pics if you do it that way. I was trying my best to get the wiring into the cab without removing the bed/drilling holes. Since this is my first stab at solar, I'm keeping a close eye on everything in case I need to make changes. Relatively easy to undo what's bee done.

 

I took a few photos just to see how the controller would fit. I still need to buy some hardware to mount the panel and longer wire to reach the battery.

Behind the back seat
https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQi1XVDQMP/

In the bed (I would want to mount it vertically though, so I would either need to remove the platform or modify it so that it fits around the controller)
https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQiSAAjkvc/

I've never done this either. Just spending money and trying to figure things out.

 

Good luck! Best way to learn right there

 

Can you take more pics of the panel clearance and how it's mounted?

 

Thanks for all the input guys

 

You wont be able to get the wires to bend into those terminals there, especially if you use their supplied black aluminum wires. The passenger side has more room for you.

 

I would think it to be the opposite as far as charging from our alternators, if they can charge a lead acid battery successfully then an AGM should be fine.

• Due to their very low internal resistance AGM batteries will fully charge at a lower voltage, and accept a much larger charge current, so when charging from a standard car/truck alternator these batteries will all but fully charge, and they will charge quickly, in about 3 hours!

 

I am curious where that bullet point is from?

That is almost the exact opposite of what I've read and been told. AGMs demand a higher voltage to get fully charged. In fact many AGM battery chargers charge at 14.7v just for that purpose. So an AGM type can get a full charge.

That is also the reason why in vehicle DC chargers are recommended in some circles. The OEM alt typically maxes out at 14.4v.

There is something very odd about that statement you posted.