Fabtech, ProComp 6" lift or more. Pictures

What's left of my 6" procomp lifted taco

Anyone want some procomp spindles

 

How much do you want for the impact struts?

 

Pro comp 6"

 

I'm doing 63's and shock relocation soon, I know my 16x8 4.5BS are going to rub the shocks. I've used spacers on the front for years, it looks and works ok when lifted because you loose track width with the lift. But I just hate the idea of spacers on the rear,just looks Bro to me.

 

I much prefer the flush look over the wheels poke out look.

 

Truck looks great! 3" body lift as well?

 

Has anyone gotten custom made, bolt-in Kings for a proper 6" rear suspension?? I know the OEM bolt-on kit is very limited travel (i'm selling a set of those, pending word from Filthy Motorsports).

I have a shackle flip with OME dakar leafpack and timbrens for 6" lift. I have 6" of up travel and 5"+ droop. Gonna see what Filthy Motorsports can make for me. Unfortunately, Ben (their suspension expert) is on vacation till end of June.

 

Based on those travel numbers I would get a set of 14" travel 2.5 RR .
My buddy just put in the Ford towers with a set of 14" Billies and he did not have to cut into the bed.

 

I appreciate the input, but the intended purpose of my experiment and inquiry with custom kings is to find a recipe that anyone can order for a direct bolt on shock. I've done many hours of research and can tell you that many companies have shocks with ample travel (~10-10.5") and decent collapsed/extended measurements, but different mount configurations make them useless. I plan to see what is possible with all the given options that are now available and then put it all together. King has not changed the Tacoma shock in years. 8.5" travel is not what i consider up-to-date.

I understand that i may possibly have to limit my travel a bit to make this work but on the other hand, new shock mounts generally introduce tire-shock clearance issues which means my 11" wide wheels with wheel spacers will stick out far past the fenders. Not the look i'm going for...

 

There is no way you will get a shock that will have enough travel using the stock mounting points.
I do not think what you are looking for exists. But good luck.

 

Correct, OEM mounting points have got to go if you truly want to get shocks that will work.
DSM uses longer rod ends to get the extra droop that Dakars allow, but with a flip and extend shackle you have more than that can give.

A 12" shock with your combo will be ideal but a 14" has been made to work. Without going thru the bed

 

I get what you guys are saying and I'm not here to argue with you on whether or not custom mounts with long travel shocks is best. I was simply trying to see if anyone has spent the time/research/money to get something tailor-made versus making long travel off-the-shelf shocks work. If King can't make what I want, I'll probably end up going the 12" or 14" route.

King has Jeep JK shocks that are same length as the b110's I'm running (27.27" vs 27.29"), granted slightly less compressed length, it's still an off-the-shelf 10.4" travel shock with similar mounts to a Tacoma. I was planning to buy a set of those and making them work, but $1000 on hope isn't gonna fly.

Icon has a 10.3" travel shock that only extends to 26.18". There's no reason King can't make something similar or even slightly more travel. The amount of options they have is unreal. A welded rod end vs billet rod end can give you 1" more available up travel, shaft spacers can be removed for more droop (aka extended travel versions), etc.

In the end, I'm hoping for at least an 11" travel shock with around 16.5" compressed length. I'd be fine limiting my travel a bit if it means I can bolt these shocks in...

 

Sounds like you did your research. As long as the mounts on the JK shocks work for you, King could revalve them for your application. But I would hate to see you lose travel.

 

Realistically, i've probably done 50+ hours of researching shocks, mounts, configurations, shocks from different cars, etc.

I wanted to make the Jeep shocks (25001-223A) fit but they have a downward facing resi port and a back facing hose. I wasnt sure if i could leave the resi's mounted to the shock body or if i needed to remove them. Figured i could have made them work but i dont want it to look like a hack job. In theory, I could just throw in a set of 1.25" rod end spacers and be done. But on the other hand, i wasnt sure if King has specific rod ends for 1.5" and 1.25" widths.

Then i thought about having King send me a modified Jeep shock body and shaft built to Tacoma mount specs to do the conversion on my "6inch lift" Kings. Then cost and having spare parts i couldnt use laying around killed that idea. So now i'm here... hoping King can pull through and create something everyone can look forward to.

Worse case scenario, I get the Jeep shocks built to Tacoma spec and I lose 0.6" up travel compared to the b110's. I'd still call that a win for the Tacoma world... Bolt-in King competitor to the Icon 57806CP.

 

You know exactly what you want/need. Call Micah at DSM. He will get King to make it.

 

Nothing against DSM but was gonna go with Filthy Motorsports since they specialize in custom King applications. I really wanna maximize what i can get out of the limited space. Since i have to wait for dude to return from vacation and i'm not in a rush, it gives me an opportunity to save up for this potentially pricey purchase. Debating on doing the fronts at the same time as well. Thats really gonna kill the wallet.

But on the same note, I do have my 6" Kings for sale.

 

Heard good things about them too. Have dealt)talked with Micah personally. So he is my go to guy. I have Kings on all four corners and love them.

 

Good evening gents
So i'm at a crossroads hear and i'm going to start a riot on the FB pages haha i'm torn between the Icons and Kings for my 6inch DB lift. The stage 2 pro comp MX 2.75 C/Os are completely shot at 40k miles and theres only a difference of about $300 on ICON and Kings being the cheaper end. With both I was looking at the C/Os with the resi's, adjustable valving and extended travel. Got the "Go ahead from the wife to finish the truck vs paying it off rght now and also looking at which gear ratio with lockers to go with for my 35s also torn between the 4.56 and the 4.88 ratios. 50% of my driving is Hwy with about 30% city and the other off road. Cant seem to get a good answer on which would be the better of the two for fuel economy but durability it looks like the 4.56s just trying to get back to around stock ratios as I geer hunt like crazy with all the weight of the bed cap bumpers winches gear and the 35s. On the hwy its a struggle to run 70 and stay in OD.
Also any input on UCAs ? ICON was telling me I need to go with the Billet vs the Tubular ones because the billies have the adjustable caster however I have zero alignment issues with my DB in fact my cv angles are better than stock currently.
Any and input would be greatly appreciated. TIA

 

Hey man was looking at a very very similar rear set up except with ALCON leafs and the same kings you have for sale now i'm second guessing. What is the issue you ran into with the kings for rear application? Lookin at their adj remote resi C/Os too for the front as my pro comp ones are shot. Any advice? I have the 6in DB Pro comp.

 

If you went to Alcan springs with the intention of increasing travel, you should look into custom shock mounts with 12" or 14" shocks. If you are fine with keeping travel the same as before by setting up your bumpstops correctly, these will be great and i would recommend buying these off me. I'm not desperate to get rid of them, just want to pass on savings before someone else scoops them up. You'd be getting group buy pricing with a free 6" upgrade (normally $200 extra).

The problem I have is the compressed length of the shocks will not allow you to use all the travel if you have a proper spring only lift. They were made with the thought of using blocks for ~6" total lift. The standard King shocks are made for up to 3" lift. The 6" version uses a 3" longer rod end to increase length.