2014 TRD Off Road 6 Speed Asphalt Assasin

My first Tacoma was a 2007 TRD Sport 4x4 and I purchased it in Seattle WA



The blue was very hard to keep clean and I always wanted a 6 speed Tacoma. So I finally found the truck I had been looking for and flew to Arizona to pick her up. This is how she looked at the original owners house. 2014 TRD Off Road 6 Speed 4x4.



Now for the mods to start....

 

First thing I had to do was change that grill to the PRO version

Before:



During:



After:




You might notice I also swapped out the grill surround to the painted version. I bought a factory Toyota Part from Village Toyota Parts. I plan on swapping the black mirrors and door handles also to white.

Also did an oil change the night before:



Used 5.5 quarts of Amsoil Synthetic

5W-30 Synthetic

And an Amsoil Ea oil filter

Ea oil Filter

 

I purchased the King coilover lift kit from Toytec which included front coilovers, total chaos UCAs, rear king shocks, and an add a leaf pack.

KSTAC05 - King Complete Kit for 05+Tacoma

Rear install,

What it looked like before



After:I removed the drums to give them a fresh coat of flat black





I had to grind a notch at the lower shock mount due to the new shock rubbing. you can see the shiny part in the pic below where it was rubbing and not allowing me to insert the mounting bolt



This also shows were it was hitting/rubbing




With notch cut out

 

I knew adding a lift and bigger tires would require more stopping power so I called Tom at SOS Performance (AKA Tundra Racing) and purchased the Stoptech Big Brake kit with larger rotors and 6 piston calipers.

I will be installing this during my front king lift install. I also have stainless braided brake lines for the front and rear

6 PISTON STOPTECH FRONT BIG BRAKE KIT fits 2005-17 TOYOTA TACOMA

I picked up some brake fluid to help during the bleed process:

DOT 3 and DOT 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid

 

Now for the front King coilover install

Before pics





Remove front skid plate for access to the sway bar



remove sway bar end links both sides



remove sway bar front mounts on both sides and move sway bar out of the way to allow shock removal





take apart spindle from upper control arm. first remove cotter pin from castle nut and then loosen castle nut.





support the lower control arm with a floor jack



I unthreaded the castle nut until it only had a few threads and then hit it with a hammer to break the spindle loose from the upper control arm



i started pulling the spindle away and noticed the brake like was getting tight so it was time to remove it. Im also installing the StopTech big brake kit with stainless brake lines so this needs to be removed anyways.

disconnect the rubber line at both hard lines





After i removed the brake line I used zip ties to secure the spindle out of the way and made sure the abs wire was not tight

Now to remove the stock shock

remove upper shock mount bolts



remove lower shock bolt



I used my floor jack to lower the lower control arm and the stock shock was removed





to be continued...

 

you make it all look so easy. looking real good. you upgrading the wheels?

 

Nice build so far man

 

Yes, I bought a set of fake beadlock wheels from Raceline in black. 17X9
http://www.racelinebeadlocks.com/p-1351-929b-sl-avenger-simulated-beadlock.aspx

 

Next was to remove the stock upper control arm. I didnt take any photos of the process as it was a pain in the ass. You have to use a set of pliers to pry the inner fender well out the way in order to remove the UCA bolt.
You can see in the picture below where the fender well is bent and scratched up. The stock UCA was already removed when this picture was taken.



Another pic with the UCA removed



The new King coil over is set in place.



I used my floor jack to align the bottom hole and inserted the mounting bolt. Then I installed and tightened the top 3 shock mount nuts (not shown in picture).



Now to prep the new Total Chaos Uniball Upper Control Arms

I installed the bushings with a mallet and then used AMSOIL Synthetic Polymeric Grease to lube the components before installation. DO NOT grease the outside of the bushings before installation. They should be installed dry according to Total Chaos.



Grease the bushings and then install the inserts







Install the grease fittings with the fitting pointing out.



The grease fittings do not need to be bottomed out and only snug them up.



Stock vs Total Chaos UCA



Install the new UCA using the factory mounting bolt.



I bolted up the new remote reservoir mount and used the clamps to install remove reservoir. It was getting late by now but I wanted to see how the new brakes would look so I decided to throw them on. I noticed the brake dust cover would need to be removed in order to fit the big brake kit. I removed the axle nut cover and used a 35mm socket to remove the nut. I proceeded to beat the hell out of the hub and it would not come off. I tried pry bars and bigger beaters. It would not budge. I even phoned a friend and we still both could not remove the hub to remove the dust shield. We decided to cut the dust shield off and used tin snips and pliers to slowly cut it away.





After the dust shield was removed I re tightened all the hub bolts and connected the spindle to the UCA uniball mount. The new rotors slide right on followed by the new 6 piston Stop Tech rotors. I also installed the new stainless braided lines. I didnt take any pics because I was ready to see the finished product. I love it!

 

I'm struggling with the fender on the passenger side. Such a pain

 

Yeah the passenger is definetly harder than the driver side. I never was able to easily remove the bolt. I used a hammer and punch to beat the bolt out. And again used a hammer to reinstall the bolt.

 

Truck is looking good Gary BTW love Amsoil stuff when I can afford it

 

Ok. That's what I was about to do. I cannot get the fender bent enough to get the bolt past. Driving me crazy for the last hour.

Thanks for that info

 

I used a deadblow on the inner fender wheel to clear the bolt to slide through. Easy money!

 

How??? There's the ac lines and other random wires that I can't get anything in there to hit the area let alone get a hammer in there?

I have vice grips to try to pull it back but there's one tight spot I can't get it past

 

Use a long cheater bar. Braced it against that fenderwell wall and use a BFH or deadblow. It only needs to clear 3/8-1/2"

 

I got it out. I bent it the fender but it wasn't enough. I put an socket extension on the other side and hit it out with that through the upper. I was able to get it out and called TC to make sure I could thread it through the opposite way to not have to hit it back in. I spent more time trying to figure that out then anything else. I hope that someone else will read that to find your solution or my "forced" way so they don't spend 1.5 hours working on it haha

 

I thought changing out those bolts on both sides were easy to do but I must be in the minority