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2001 2.7 won't rev past 2k RPM

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by jedicocheese, May 12, 2017.

  1. May 15, 2017 at 8:39 AM
    #21
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    maybe its me but it helps if you dont jump start anyone. I noticed mine usually dont last long if I jump started a vehicle or two.
     
  2. May 17, 2017 at 5:36 AM
    #22
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    update: went to fire it up yesterday and problem is back. but not it's about 1800k RPM limit. live data on a scanner shows about 1666 max rpm. wondering if somethign with the outside temp is affecting this.

    been in the 40-50's maybe mid 60's this past month. first day it happened it was on the warmer side that day. yesterday it was in the mid 80's.
    i went out this morning to fire it up and everythign is working as expected, no problems. it's 68 here now. going to get up to 85 today.
    i'm going to get a new battery at noon today. hopefully the problem will come back once it's hot outside. this way i can have the problem and replace the battery with a new one to see if that helps.

    i'll update after i replace battery.
     
  3. May 17, 2017 at 11:19 AM
    #23
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    you said it tripped a crank position sensor code so I'd go with a sensor first.
     
  4. May 17, 2017 at 12:08 PM
    #24
    vasinvictor

    vasinvictor Junkie

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    In my 5vz with 240k wouldn't rev past 3k. It would just hit a fuel cut or something. It was the crank sensor. I did not throw a code for it, but the CEL would literally flash when it was misfiring above 3k. Especially since you're throwing a crank related code.
     
    cruiserguy and Dalandser like this.
  5. May 17, 2017 at 6:43 PM
    #25
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    that flash is telling you catalytic convertor damage is eminant...
     
  6. May 17, 2017 at 11:33 PM
    #26
    ZUK

    ZUK Gearinstalls.com

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    plugged fuel pump in the tank? (strainer full of rust)
     
  7. May 18, 2017 at 4:46 AM
    #27
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    i believe the crank sensor only showed up becuase i only had ONE ground wire attached. the one from the battery was never hooked up and i had removed the ground from the rear of the engine to test the IAT then forgot to hook it back up when i tried to start it. after i re-attached the rear ground and cleared the CEL, that hasn't happened since then.

    my CEL has never come on or even blinked/flashed while this problem has been happening.

    if i remove my TPS, should i get a CEL? i tried that yesterday and my CEl never came on?

    also, i removed the MAF yesterday to do some more troubleshooting. my CEL DOES come on when i remove it. what should the symptons be when your MAF is removed? mine starts just fine and idles fine, but as soon as i touch the gas the RPM'S drop and it stalls. is that expected?


    so i put a brand new battery on it yesterday aruond 1130. started and ran fine a few times. came back out around 3pm when it was 91 degrees and it started. First time i turned on the truck and revved it right at 1800 rpm is dropped. it did this about 10 times then cleared up. it has never cleared up before when i've been running it. so for the next hour i would turn it off and then back on. truck would hit the problem for 20-40-seconds then clear up. did this for over an hour.

    i go out this morning to start it and it's around 65 degrees. truck is starting and revving just fine.

    Could the outside temp cause any problems with anything on the truck?

    i noticed the ground wire from the alternator to the block is rusty at the block so i'm going to clean that up. i also unhooked the alt yesterday when the truck was having the issue. unplugged alt, turned on truck, problem was still there.

    if i take this to my local dealership, do they have any kind of advanced scanner that they can hook up? i know the 2 i've been using are good at seeing codes and clearing them but maybe somethign is out of Spec that the ECU and scanners aren't seeing.

    i'm just afraid of going to the dealership and they start throwing parts at it.... i can do that.

    thanks again all
     
  8. May 18, 2017 at 4:48 AM
    #28
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    i haven't looked at fuel pump or fuel filter yet because wouldn't that be a constant problem? it happens and then doesn't stop happening until either filter is replaced of pump has died or is replaced? also, if the the fuel pump is bad or going bad can they just start working after the truck as been running for a couple seconds?

    thanks for all the suggestions :)
     
  9. May 18, 2017 at 8:35 AM
    #29
    JJ04TACO

    JJ04TACO Well-Known Member

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    A proper diagnosis is always a good thing. They will tell you what it is and recommend a repair. They won't work on your car w/o your consent. Or you can order parts and do it yourself. I second that if you have an issue and let it go you could damage your cat. I have no issues paying for a diagnosis on an unknown issue to simplify repair. I've saved enough money doing things myself to pay for 100 diagnostic sessions. :) Usually I know what it is and fix it however.
     
  10. May 18, 2017 at 9:37 AM
    #30
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    yeah. guess i'm going to call and setup an appointment. hopefully they can find somthing. i'll post what happens after i get it back from them.
    thx all
     
  11. May 24, 2017 at 12:31 PM
    #31
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    well, had to towed to dealership today and of course they can't reproduce the problem. so now they are going to keep it for a few days and see if they can find anything. i was hoping i could drop it off, they'd run a scan on it and find something. i guess it doesn't work that way. i'll update if/when i find anything out
     
  12. May 25, 2017 at 7:53 AM
    #32
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    They called me this morning and told me they can't reproduce the problem again and asked me if i wanted to try. I drive up there and sure enough, i can't it to fail. They are going to keep it a few more days and try at random times during the day.
    the tech basically told me without a CEL their isn't much they can do. he doesn't want to start throwing parts at it. i can appreciate that but i also need to problem fixed.

    Do fuel pumps either work or don't work? can they be weak or work intermittently? Like one day it's fine then the next it loses voltage or power and can't supply the fuel the truck needs at 1800 or so RPM's? i thought fuel pumps either worked or failed.

    thx
     
  13. May 25, 2017 at 8:35 AM
    #33
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    I just re read the prior postings and removing the chassis to block ground struck me as interesting in the problems it caused... there should be a ground wire off of the battery to the inner fender, a large ground from the block to the negative post and smaller grounds that ground the ECU/injectors etc off of the intake. If the block/chassis ground causes those types of problems I would suspect a grounding issue with the motor to the chassis and/or battery. Is this THE problem... maybe. If the grounds are bad, I am not talking resistance wise, bad meaning voltage drop wise, the electrical interference "confuses" the ECU. A couple of alligator clipped wires from the grounding points to the negative post of the battery and a test drive just might do it. There are a number of web sites that explain much better than I can about checking for voltage drops.
     
  14. May 25, 2017 at 9:40 AM
    #34
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    First thing i'm going to do when i get it back is take off all those ground wires, clean them and surface they attach to and reattach them.
    i'll take a look at what you mentioned about the clipped wires and test drive.
     
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  15. May 25, 2017 at 10:12 AM
    #35
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    Can these tacoma's be run without the MAF or TPS plugged in? i'm asking because if i unplug either of those, i can get a CEL but the truck is undriveable.
    if i unplug the MAF the truck starts fine but won't idle over 900 and stalls out as soon as i give it any gas. is that to be expected?

    what should happen if i unplug the TPS?
     
  16. May 28, 2017 at 11:47 AM
    #36
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    got it back from Toyota and since the problem didn't happen while there for 2 days they couldn't diagnose anything. Bright side is they didn't charge me anything. Mechanic said to disconnect the EGR and see if that fixes it next time the problem happens. He said it sounds like a stuck EGR valve.
    i'll update next time problem happens to see if bypassing the EGR stops the problem while it's happening.
     
  17. May 30, 2017 at 6:03 PM
    #37
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    update and question for anyone still following along.
    problem hasn't been happening for the past 4 days. about 10 miles and no problem.
    i go out tonight to start it and Bam. problem comes back. This time i spell fuel though. i thought i smelled it before but wasn't certain.

    then my neighbor stops over and we start chatting and for some reason i remember i have an IR gun. i quickly grab it and start measuring temps at the Cats. this tacoma has 2 cats. first one the INLET temp is about 300 and the OUTLET is about 225.
    second cat INLET is about 200 and outlet is about 200.
    i was readying somewhere else that a good way to know if your CAT is clogged is to take a temp reading of the inlet and outlet and the temps should be about the same.

    so it looks like I have clogged front CAT.... i know it was mentioned before but it just seems odd to me that a clogged cat would be an intermittent problem.

    my question : is the un-burnt fuel smell the cause of the clogged cat or a system of back pressure on the engine with the clogged cat? so basically is the un burnt fuel smell caused by the clogged cat or is something else happening that is causing the unburnt fuel and that unburnt fuel is destroying the cat? i hope that makes sense :)
     
  18. May 30, 2017 at 11:50 PM
    #38
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    I believe unburnt fuel, due to faulty O2 sensor or afr sensor causing the fuel system to never run in closed loop, will prematurely kill catalytic convertors.
     
  19. May 31, 2017 at 9:16 AM
    #39
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    is the fuel smell coming out of the exhaust pipe or under the hood? You could have leaky fuel injectors...
     
  20. Jun 2, 2017 at 7:46 AM
    #40
    jedicocheese

    jedicocheese [OP] Active Member

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    i believe it's coming from the tailpipe. with the hood open we don't smell the fuel.
    my plan is to take of the front cat and check it. the IR gun test showed an 80+ degree difference from front of Cat to Read. Front being hotter. Seems to be a non-proven way of saying your front cat COULD be bad. I'm also going to get some OE AFR and O2 sensors and put on. I'm soaking all the bolts with FreeAll right now. i'll post again, hopefully with pics, once I get the front Cat off
     

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