Lower Control Arms Replacement

I'm not sure if this is best here or in the Suspension Thread.......

I have a 2004 Double Cab with a 3 inch OME lift. I had new tires put on today and was told that they couldn't do the alignment b/c I need to replace the LCA and bushings. I have a couple questions:

1. They quoted me at $250 per side. It looks like using OEM parts. There are lots of other options out there. Any recommendations on what I should get?

2. What else should I replace or change out while I'm doing this? I'm not prepared to spend $750 on ICON UCAs but I'm open to suggestions

3. They said this is a 4.5 hour job. Is this accurate?

thanks for the help

 

I just changed my bushing and replaced them with polyurethane bushings. No since in changing lca unless the are bent. I would check balljoints while I had it torn apart. 250 per side isn't bad bc to do it yourself is a pain.

 

1,3) $500 sounds like labor alone, no parts involved. it does take a long time to change the lower arms cause the rack is in the way and a reputable shop will properly remove the rack to change the control arms. some peeps on these forums have done it on their own without removing the rack by removing the zip ties holding the rack bellows and disconnecting the outer tie rods. doing this will give you some more wiggle room. you may have to loosen the rack a little to get the arm bolts all the way out.

2) it would be wise to change the rack and pinion bushings and mounts along with the bump stops for the control arms

 

Unless your LCAs are rusted out, why would you replace them? Just replace the bushings. Whiteline Poly bushings are a good choice. Poly bushings like Energy Suspension sell are more work to install. The Whitelines are plug and play.

You can move the steering rack back enough to remove the rear control arm bolts without removing the boots on the steering rack. In the Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement video below, we did remove the boots because we thought we had to. On another LCA bushing job I did, we just moved the steering rack back further and were able to get the bolts out no problem. You just have to make sure you release the power steering lines from the bracket on the driver side frame rail so you can pull it back far enough. We show how to do this in the Steering Rack Bushing Replacement video.

So here's what I recommend. Follow the videos below and replace your steering rack, lower control arm, and sway bar bushings. If you haven't replaced your lower balljoints yet, replace those as well with OEM balljoints. Don't buy aftermarket balljoints.

There is a chance one of more of your cam adjusters could be rusted into the sleeve of the bushing. If you run into this problem, you'll have to cut them out. You'll need a reciprocating saw and some good blades. Diablo Demon Carbide Tipped Blades are suppose to be awesome and make the cutting go quick. You have to cut on each side of the bushing to free the control arm from the frame. It might not be a bad idea to buy a couple cam adjusters to have on hand in case you have to cut some out so you don't have to hope your local Toyota dealer has some on hand in their parts department.

If you're mechanically inclined and have some basic tools, you can handle this repair. You can rent pullers for free at some auto parts stores. Your stock jack that comes with the truck will work for the LCA removal. Good luck!

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Also, the price difference between replacing the arm entirely and replacing just the bushings is it's more expensive to replace just the bushings cause you will be charged at least 1 hour (about 115) to replace just the bushings from a shop on top of labor to remove and install the arm and buying the arms. unless you get one of those ass shops that doubles the price of the arm from their supplier.

 

This is why it's a worthwhile to do your own repairs if you have the time and the tools. You save money, gain knowledge and prevent some shop mechanic from screwing up your rig. The way I look at it, the person who is going to take the time and do the job right is you because it's your rig. There are good mechanics, don't get me wrong, but often they're rushing through a job to get to the next one and that's when mistakes get made.

 

Well I had a simple spacer lift installed when the LCAs seized up. Price sounds right for what I went through.

 

I replaced my arms with MOOG units. Seem to be decent so far.

 

I just replaced UCA/LCA bushings with energy suspension and they have been great so far. I think I spent 40$ on bushings and did them all myself. Took my about a day to get it all pulled out, torched out, cleaned up and put back together after a few little hiccups.

I used an Oxy/acetylene torch with a rose bud and the old rubber bushings didn't stand a chance. They fell out like melted butter.

 

My response is to the OP whom doesn't seem to know enough about the mechanical work involved in repairing his truck. The input you gave is unnecessary.

 

I just replaced mine w/OEM rubber bushings. It wasn't too hard at all, just gotta deal w/loosening that steering rack. You don't need to loosen the ps fluid lines, but we did pop the outer tie rod off.

 

Incorrect. The information Tim provided (and others) is very helpful. In addition, passing on knowledge to others is never unnecessary. What is unnecessary is providing smart-ass comments.

You're correct CodeSeven. I don't know enough to repair the suspension on my truck. It's probably because I've spent most of the last 20 years deployed doing what I do know how to do, hunting and killing terrorists. Happy to afford you the time to learn to change LCAs and bushings.

I almost never pull the "military card".....never....but if you want to post flippant, jack ass comments, well, there you go.

Thanks to everyone for the help

 

Congratulations, you spent 20 years doing something you chose to do. Meanwhile for the past 28 years I worked on recovering from the P.T.S.D. I got from watching my older brother murdering my father in front of me and then murdering another one of my brothers when I was 6. So don't assume I'm some ungrateful little shit who knows nothing. I am actually trying to use my 18 years of experience as an automotive specialist to help. But our pasts and scars aren't something we should be using against other so proudly and openly, now is it?

There's a reason why I told Timmah! what I did. Too much unnecessary information is bad. It may even be overwhelming to you and misinform you on what the next correct step should be. I gave you clear cut advice pertaining to each question so you can make a clearer and properly informed decision.

So thank you for the services and protection you've provided me and my fellow countrymen. And your welcome for trying to do for you what I've experienced is the best thing to do for someone to do in a situation like this.

 

Hey all,

I'm gonna take out my LCA to replace bushings with poly, do I need to re-compress my coils for re installation? I saw a video online and the guy did so.... and its warping my comprehension on reality.

 

Most dealers won't bother to replace the bushings, but they'll sell you the LCAs with new bushings already installed.

I got my LCAs off in about 30 minutes last time, it's not hard at all, probably took me an hour the first time I had ever done it. Someone who's not an idiot and has a frame lift (i.e. a mechanic) could do it in even less time. Sure, you have to loosen the steering rack, but that's just 3 bolts... Not sure where that turns into a 4.5 hour job...

OP: get yourself the Energy Suspension (ES) poly bushings, burn out the old rubber ones, and toss in the poly ones. DONE. As others said, might be a good time to look at, and replace, the ball joints too. While the whitelines that Tim mentioned are easier to install, that's really only if you have a press. The ES ones, you just burn out/remove the old rubber, and the poly bushings slide into the OEM sleeve. Maybe a little time consuming to burn the rubber, but who doesn't like playing with fire?

As for the UCAs, you don't need the super expensive uni-ball ones if all you are doing is correctly the geometry from your lift. IIRC, there are ones in the $300 range that will do what you need. Uni-balls are cool if you beat on your truck or want to look like you beat on your truck, lol...

 

re-compress your coils!?

No.

Watch Tim's video(s) above.

What video where you watching?

 

jbrandt: Thanks! They were showing as blanks on my company server, when I was looking during lunch.

Does anyone have a parts code for the OEM Lower Ball Joints (2nd Gen)?

 

might want to hit up the 2nd Gen guys https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/2nd-gen-tacomas-2005-2015.5/

 

Sorry, I didn't notice I was in Gen 1; I'm blind today. But thanks for all the help so far, much better than the info I was finding in the 2nd Gen.