Uca on a budget

@skaf402 get these ones instead for 95-04. the 25470 is for '05-current

$846 SPC Performance 25460 Control Arm, Upper

https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-25460-Control-Upper/dp/B00I5IXBFA

 

Damn you guys are awesome...thanks for all the help and info.

 

Anyone have any issues with tire rubbing on the SPC UCAS after installation? I got 33 12.5 on 15inch rim...they don't rub on the stock UCAS but my buddy was telling me to make sure it'll work.

 

Might just need to get it aligned properly, the SPCs are adjustable. I've also heard of people needing to add spacers depending on what kind of wheels they're running, but start with a proper alignment first.

 

Meh... I want to stay away from spacers but yes alignment first. I have about 1/4 inch clearance between my uca and inner tire on it now, so hopefully the new ucas have a similar build

 

Only time I've seen them rub was on a buddy's 3rd gen, he installed Kings with the SPC arms and they were rubbing after install just a tad. He loosened the top bolt on the UCA and self-adjusted it (pulled it away from the shock a bit) and it was fine. Got it aligned shortly after and hasn't rubbed since, so you'll probably be okay. I've only heard of a couple cases here on TW where someone had to do spacers to avoid hitting the UCA because of the particular backspacing of the wheels they were running, but that seems to be the minority. I'm not certain that SPC UCAs were even involved in those cases.

 

The only issue I have with my SPC UCAs is that I seem to be one of those people that got a set that oozes grease out of the boots. Since the SPCs are greasable, they recommend adding grease every few thousand miles so I just make sure I stick to that, and all is well. If you look at the bottom of the boots on mine though, you can see grease oozing out of it. I guess the old grease has to go somewhere, lol.

I've had mine on for nearly a year now and they've been great, and I wheel it pretty hard. No issues other than that (if you can even really call it one).

 

Found a better price

http://performancelifts.com/spc-toyota-tacoma-4runner-upper-control-arm-25460.html

 

Can we wake this thread back up?! I'm not sure where to begin with my info and questions, but here goes. Also, I'm new here...

My tacoma is stock hieght and staying there, but I want better handling cuz I like to drive fast and I need my four wheel drive. Someday, I plan on installing the energy suspension master bushing kit from rockauto, unless I find a different one cheaper or maybe someone here knows of a better kit for the same amount of money or less.

Today, I got under my truck to check out my u-joints and saw that one of my sway bar end links was completely broken off from the sway bar and my ball joints and tie rod ends are dry rotted and leaking grease. So, obviously I'm looking for replacements and of course, I'm on a budget.

Rockauto has a Mevotech front end kit that has everything I need plus more. My goal is to replace OEM with something that isn't stock, but something that is somewhat reputable, lasts a long time, and of course handles better.

So now some questions:
Has anyone bought and installed this kit or something similar?
What is the purpose of replacing the UCA's if there's nothing wrong with them?
Can I replace the tie rod end boot instead of the whole piece as long as the ball joint is still good? (Energy suspension kit has new boots)

 

@Krzykraker Can we wake this thread back up?! I'm not sure where to begin with my info and questions, but here goes. Also, I'm new here...

My tacoma is stock hieght and staying there.

Then you don't need anything other than stock UCA's

I want better handling cuz I like to drive fast and I need my four wheel drive.

Replace tie rods, upper, lower bj's, etc.

Someday, I plan on installing the energy suspension master bushing kit from rockauto, unless I find a different one cheaper or maybe someone here knows of a better kit for the same amount of money or less.

Might just buy bushings you actually plan on installing part by part.

Today, I got under my truck to check out my u-joints and saw that one of my sway bar end links was completely broken off from the sway bar and my ball joints and tie rod ends are dry rotted and leaking grease. So, obviously I'm looking for replacements and of course, I'm on a budget.

Rockauto has a Mevotech front end kit that has everything I need plus more. My goal is to replace OEM with something that isn't stock, but something that is somewhat reputable, lasts a long time, and of course handles better.

OEM upper and lower ball joints, I don't keep sway bars usually so I assume there's a couple options to fit your budget on end links with a range of quality but not as serious as balljoints.

So now some questions:
Has anyone bought and installed this kit or something similar?
What is the purpose of replacing the UCA's if there's nothing wrong with them?

Better caster angles at raised ride heights

Can I replace the tie rod end boot instead of the whole piece as long as the ball joint is still good? (Energy suspension kit has new boots)

I'd just replace them unless the ball joints are nice and tight.

 

Just wanted to throw something out there for the guys on a budget.....
Here's how you get adjustable uca's for the 1st gen on the cheap.
We have all seen the super cheap uca's on Amazon, eBay, etc....the weak part of those bad boys is the crap ball joint that comes with them. Through alot of testing I have found that Duralast(autozone) part number FA10003, which is an adjustable ball joint for 1500 series gm trucks will in fact press into the ghetto uca's, the only modification needed is to either grind down the top of the "cup" the ball joint presses into to accomodate the top plate that comes with the ball joint or to take the plate down in diameter to fit the "cup".......the part that needs modified is in no way integral to the function or safety of the ball joint nor is the material you can remove from the uca.....you can +/- 3 degrees of caster or camber depending on the orientation of the BJ......the stud is just offset...there is a "keyed" spot on the top of the BJ so that you can put a hex in it and spin it while it's in the uca, then just put the plate on and torque the nut......boom, adjustable uca's for about $300