What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I did a thing!

 

OK. Question on rubbing fix. Not flexed, just sitting in driveway.

Driver full left lock. Hitting Frame. Not CMC area. Hard rub.



Driver partial turn flap/CMC area (clears now)



Driver Full Right Lock (clears now)



Passenger full lock right. Same frame spot as driver side. Rubs hard



Passenger CMC area (clears now)



Current alignment specs:



Am I looking at more caster needed? Or do I need spacers to push it off frame? LR UCAs and Icon ET's. Any thoughts or insight appreciated. And I more than OK with if and when the time comes

 

The frame rub you can only fix with less wheel backspacing, so either different wheels or spacers. That will push the tire out further, which will make it rub on the back of the fender more, so you'll have to cut out more of that. It looks like you still have most of the plastic liner intact, if you cut some of that out and expose the pinch weld, then cut/beat that down you'll have more clearance there. Have you checked it at full stuff?

 

Kind of what I was thinking.
Haven't stuffed it yet. But I'll start with spacers, a knife and a bfh. I can pull in the back yard and stuff it to check again for flex rub points this week and cut as necessary. Thank you for the response.

 

Had a good ride Saturday at Stoney Lonesome OHV Park in Cullman Alabama

 

So many nice trucks

 

some 1.25" spidertrax spacers will get you situated.

 

Thanks.

Are spidertrax the consensus go to spacers? Haven't run any before or looked into them until now.

 

Well the light is off now. I guess maybe something get wet that shouldn't have been?

Was Hoping I'd be done getting stuck in snow now that it's June...

 

they are well proven. bora, ap, and other brand name spacers are just as good (imo) but spidertrax is the go to spacer for tacos


edit: i didnt like how little thread the front studs had when installing spacers so extended studs is a must also if you ask me.

 

Good deal. I'll shop around tonight

 

You may not need 1.25" to clear the frame. I would recommend getting the minimum size needed to eliminate the frame rub, and that will minimize how much of the pinch weld area you need to clearance.
I have had Spidertrax, currently have 1" Bora spacers. They are equal quality as far as I can tell, and the Bora's are available in 1/4" increments for whatever size you want, whereas Spidertrax are 1.25" only.

 

You have stock wheels huh?

Get some 1" spacers. Or new wheels.

 

I'm guessing 1" would be enough.

Stock 07 4runner wheels. Just gonna go spacer for now till other purchases, but new wheels in the future.

 

To check for flex rubbing you can take out the coil over and throw a jack under the LCA and then go to full bump and full lock both ways to check. It'll be easier than trying to go full bump in your back yard. Once I get 285s on that's what I'll be doing so I don't rub as bad when I'm off-road. Although I bet I will

 

I could throw some 285s on right now but I don't wanna deal with the rubbing yet.... hard life

 

I need the 285s was scraping too much rock with 265's




Also update on the rear oil seal, haven't seen anymore leakage since I first found it. Checked the level and it came pouring out. I'll keep an eye on it, but the replacement will be getting pushed back until I can afford it and not be screwed with bills or if I see it leaking more. Don't know why it stopped leaking

 

Haha that is not rust.

 

Sounds like a better plan. Our previous 285s rubbed in about the same spots. When under flex they didn't seem to rub too much more. Not a lot of wear marks so "should" be an easy days work... But now that I've said that....

 

Installed light in cap for my bed