Wiring assistance.

I've not used the posi taps, but i assume that they are still IDC technology (Insulation Displacement Connector) which will split the insulation and fit the conductor in a slot that compresses the conductors. (and hopefully doesn't cut many of them)

To each his own of course.
As long as this is a low current feed to trigger the relay then a few minutes with a test light should help you find either the dash lights, radio or cig feed.

 

Gone..!!

 

I was just hoping someone had found one, so I didn't have to buy something else. The posi taps use a nail-like point to puncture the wire and it does put a small hole in the insulation. Because of the tapered design, it shouldn't cut many if any wires.

 

That is curious. If there is both a power and a trigger feed then the assumption is the trigger from the switch will fire a relay and will be very low current indeed. I may have to look up this compressor and see more.

 

Gotcha. And if you were looking for 250ma to run a relay I would agree. 8amps on the other hand, no I don't think I would want to use a tap of any kind. If it really is that much of a draw then you may want to add your own accessory relay.

 

Yeah - there are two wires that go direct to battery with 2 inline fuses. These are power wires one for each compressor (there are two compressor motors). The second harness has all the switch wiring. On the compressor itself, it appears to be a simple 1 ground / 1 positive connector. I'd assume it has an internal relay switch of some sort as a relay isn't supplied or called for in the installation. The 8A comment is odd as a relay usually does not require that much power.

 

That's what I was thinking I would do - even though the install doesn't call for one. But then I would probably have to add another inline fuse as the relay could provide more than 8A.

 

Honestly, any of the accessory wires will provide enough amps to fry most 16g wire before the bigger fuses fail. That is one of the advantages to tapping an existing circuit since you get the (edit) fuse built in.

I have found the wiring diagram for the compressor (nice compressor btw, I'm patient with my $65 compressor though)
What I haven't found is the specification for the red/yellow trigger wire. Could you send me a link?

The only other reason I can think of that they would specify 8amps of power for the ignition switched source is it not only provides power for their main relay, but it is part of the harness and supplies power to the locker solenoids if you are so equipped.

 

There are no specs for that wire, they just say this:

"The desired outlet should supply positive 12VCD for a

$600 CKMTA12 '12V' On-Board Twin High Performance Air Compressor, Ideal for Air Lockers Locking Differentials, Tire Inflator, Air Horn, Air Tools and Pneumatic Tools.

CKMTA12 or 24VDC for a

$650 CKMTA24 Twin Air Compressor Kit On-Board 24V Incl. Fully Assem Air Comp Complete Wiring Loom Comp Isolating Switch Splash Resistant Air Filters Mounting Bolts/Washers Twin Air Compressor Kit

CKMTA24, be fused at a minimum of 8 amps, and be live only when the vehicle ignition key is in either the 'ACC' position or in the 'ON' position."

But I see what you mean - yes there is additional power for the locker solenoids. I will not be using those (at least right now). From what I can find though, they use .6A each.

 

So, let's say 1.5 for the solenoids and another .5 for their relay or contactor. It's a stretch but maybe they are just trying to make sure you don't attach to a circuit that will be underfed, or just protecting their liability. Either way I wouldn't use a wire tap for that kind of current, but I wouldn't hesitate to use a fuse tap.

Sounds like you aren't hesitant to buy premium equipment and you want to do it right the first time. You may get a better solution from the dealer parts department since they do have access to wiring diagrams. I have the full wiring docs for my truck, but I don't think that will help you a bit. Good luck to you!

 

One more thing. You probably will wind up tapping the dash lights wire anyway. Diagram looks like they tap into it for the switch ilumination. I know it's far away but you can easily find that circuit in the radio harness.

 

Thanks. I actually emailed ARB to ask about the requirements and see if they will provide more detail. If that fails I think I will just control a relay with the switch and have the relay feed power to the...other relay...*sigh* lol.

Yes I will tap into dash illumination, probably via the rear window switch as that wire was identified on here already.

 

Rear window switches... 3rd gens.

 

lol, I've used it once, to make sure it worked. Not sure how often it will get used.

 

Cool, if ARB comes up with anything be sure to post it here. This thread will come up on somebody's search in the future.

 

Sorry I can't help with which wire to tap into, but I only clicked because I saw the snap tap picture.

I've used both the snap tap (pictured above) and posi-tap, and the posi-tap is the only one that has worked for me. The snap taps either didn't remove enough wire insulation for a good connection, or it would weaken the wire enough to break in half.

The posi-taps are great because the little spike punches right through the middle of the wire, and the body of the posi-tap pinches the rest of the wire insulation so that the wire's "structural integrity" is still intact.

$12 Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg

https://smile.amazon.com/Lockitt-PO...=UTF8&qid=1496700536&sr=8-2&keywords=posi+tap

 

t e c h i n f o t o y o t a c o m

100% wiring diagrams for 100% of what toyota sells in US and Canada

 

Sure!
For the low low price of:

 

yeh, 15 bucks to NOT f-up a $31,000 truck


no one can afford that. yeh

 

Wiring diagram files attached below.