Home Improvement Today?

I was thinking something along these lines. At least for the time being.

 

So that is an engineered piece as you know. I think anything you do will "compromise the integrity of the joist" by engineering criteria. I bet you could take some 3/4" plywood cut about 18-24" long and make over opposing lapping journals for the wire so that you create a slide into place part then apply glue and bolt, or nail it all together? I am not a structural engineer or architect.

 

Weyerhauser TJI 210...

http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/files/document-library/1488927548_TJ-4000.pdf

See contents for table of allowable holes.

Edit: page 9

 

Agreed. Those 2x4 chunks will do nothing, you need plywood on each side, glued and screwed. Bolts are probably overkill and you'd just be drilling more holes on the joist. Btw, that electrical hole doesn't look too out of line, it's a little low on the joist but probably still in tolerable range and size. My guess is that the joist was whacked upon install, maybe got hit by something coming off the truck. I too am no engineer or architect

 

Well, maybe I'm wrong, the hole looks pretty close to the end of joist per that datasheet. Anyway, if it was me I'd glue and screw 3/4 ply on each side, but who knows what that would mean for resale upon inspection.

 

I didn't put it there. But it does seem to be right within the boundary per that table. I'm sure not good for resale haha.

I do like the plywood idea.

 

The idea with the plywood is go well beyond the damage on each side and glue it good so you're basically creating a stronger beam than before (in rough theory). Since the hole is so close to the end of beam, you'll have to go all the way to end of beam, above foundation, to maximize the patch effectiveness. Then again, my advice is worth what you paid for it. I'm just saying what I would do, not recommending it to anyone else. Gotta love lawyers.

 

What do you mean by collapsing ?

 

I understand the disclaimer stuff haha.

It is bowing fairly severely and there is a parallel crack in the osb to 2-3 feet from its end.

 

Is it sitting on the foundation wall or is it in a hanger ?

 

This is exactly what I was picturing, and one with a journal going the opposite way on the other side.

In one of the original pictures it shows some blowout where the knockout must have passed through with some connected material or someone swung the hammer really hard knocking it out. At least that is what I saw in the pictures.

 

Correction, it is sitting on a 2x something that is on the foundation wall.

 

It seems odd that the joist would cup in that scenario where there is such a minimal span and essentially no loading . I would bet there were no nails driven through the rim board and into the top chord of the joist

The previous posts about laminating plywood on either side will definitely help , I would also likely add a block on the flat , applied to the underside of the subfloor between the top chord of the bad joist and its neighbours on either side to stop any further movement in that axis as well

 

Thanks oz. Do I fasten that blocking straight to the floor, or to the the joists?

 

I would put some PL Premium on the block and just screw it to the subfloor

 

Carrying on with siding

Thought I would illustrate where some of those weird shaped trims go

This one is an inside corner for a transition from 2x6 t&g DFir to our 1x6 channel siding

We can hide the screws that fix it on where they will be buried behind the 2x6 later , no visible fasteners on this piece





This goofy peanut double diamond is the inside corner shape where we have 1x6 channel siding on both walls

Again screws get hidden in the rabbets for the siding and we are screwing it on with 3" stainless trim head screws , no visible fasteners on this piece

 

Looks great Oz. Now those from pieces you milled make sense in my brain. Great work as always. Very intersting stuff

 

Top notch work OZ!

 

The water really brings out the color. This picture doesn't even do it justice.