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Electrical Issue

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by terps2005, Apr 24, 2017.

  1. Apr 24, 2017 at 10:26 AM
    #1
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a 2011 4.0 prerunner trd sport.
    I was driving in stop and go traffic this morning and the radio and clock shut off. It stayed off about 30 seconds and eventually rebooted. When it came back on the airbag light, the passenger fasten seatbelt light and the traction control light all stayed lit. I shut the truck off and the lights went away. Any ideas what caused this? Is it something I should be concerned with or just one of those freak things? Any help is appreciated.

    IMG_0142.jpg
     
  2. Apr 24, 2017 at 10:29 AM
    #2
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    get your battery checked, my Nissan did some weird stuff on the gauges ended up being the battery a couple days later.
     
  3. Apr 24, 2017 at 10:50 AM
    #3
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll check it but it's new as of February....
     
  4. Apr 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM
    #4
    totmacher

    totmacher automotive hypochondriac

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    Cut & broke off stuff. Prolific ziptie and tape usage.
    yeah, check battery condition first.
    Check that wires are clamped to it well.
    Check that your toes haven't knocked s plug loose in footwell.
    Check the wires and plugs under the seats for signs of damage. May have had something bounce against one.
    Check fuses.
    Basically easy visual checks.

    If all that looks ok and lights don't come back on, i wouldn't worry. Call it a random electrical fart.

    Was 2011 included in that spiral cable recall? I think airbag light wad a symptom of that.
     
  5. Apr 24, 2017 at 10:54 AM
    #5
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    maybe check the connections, make sure theres no corrosion. Battery was just something I'd check first.
     
  6. Apr 24, 2017 at 10:56 AM
    #6
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks...I'll go over it this evening and double check all harnesses and connections.
     
  7. May 1, 2017 at 5:20 PM
    #7
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure everyone who read this lost sleep over it but it was a loose positive battery cable...tightened it up and it's good to go.
     
  8. May 30, 2017 at 8:59 AM
    #8
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone ever replaced their positive battery cable? Do I need to get the whole harness which lists for $405.00? I got the truck used and the wiring to the positive post has been all hacked together. I replaced the terminal Sunday but it's still wiggling loose. I'd like to replace the whole cable and fix it right.
     
  9. May 30, 2017 at 8:07 PM
    #9
    morgul.03

    morgul.03 Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a picture of the hack job? I can't imagine it being bad enough that you need to spend that kind of money to remedy it
     
  10. May 30, 2017 at 8:37 PM
    #10
    kingk0ng

    kingk0ng Well-Known Member

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    just a few things.
    get a better terminal if its still loose. try to see if an audio shop has one.
     
  11. May 31, 2017 at 10:52 AM
    #11
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The main cable off of the harness looks like its a cut down grinded ring connector. The wire coming out of the fuse box is bare/non terminated. The radio keeps flickering on and off if I hit a bump and sometimes in the morning when I come out to the truck the clock is wrong and has stopped for a few hours. The bolts are all tight but there's something loose somewhere....

    Battery Terminal.jpg
     
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  12. May 31, 2017 at 11:03 AM
    #12
    TomTwo

    TomTwo I love God but I cuss a little

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    Everything under the heat wrap is probably corroded cut the heat wrap off and clean it up and re wrap it. Low voltage will cause havoc on a modern electrical system. Clean up the connection where it is clamped to your connector too. that is not the best connector but it will do if everything is clean and tight.
     
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  13. May 31, 2017 at 11:10 AM
    #13
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    Id cut it off where the old terminal connection was. strip it down to the copper and put it in the clamp the proper way. As it sits now its like piggy backing a surge protector to another surge protector.
     
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  14. May 31, 2017 at 11:13 AM
    #14
    TomTwo

    TomTwo I love God but I cuss a little

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    I agree there is just to much going on right in that area to get a good connection.
     
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  15. May 31, 2017 at 11:16 AM
    #15
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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    clamp looks fine, its the broken terminal end in the clamp thats the problem.
     
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  16. May 31, 2017 at 11:45 AM
    #16
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know the length on the cable from the fuse box? How about the length for the cable to the starter...I may just order a pre-made cable and replace it that way...
     
  17. Jun 14, 2017 at 4:16 PM
    #17
    terps2005

    terps2005 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I replaced the battery terminals, the starter to battery + cable, the fuse box to battery + cable, and the body ground to - cable this afternoon with 2 AWG cable. After some further research I'm not confident that'll fix the problem. I'm looking at the "short pin" ST fuse being the culprit now. I'll order one from Toyota tomorrow and see if that gets it.
     

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