Tiffany the Taco

I'm going to sell my old chrome one if you are interested. It definitely needs some work though.

 

Cuatos dineros?

 

I was thinking 40 plus shipping, but let me get some close up photos of it first so you can see the condition. It would be a good candidate to sand and paint.

 

Thanks. I would be planning to paint it black so that may work out well. Keep me posted

 

Some more grille pics

 

You really are starting to build your truck more like my black one lol. Just noticed I commented on this thread two years ago. Time for retros!!

 

Very impressive OP, bravo!

 

nzbrock:

Removed the bed to access the fuel tank and fix my broken gas gauge:

Burnt fuel sender connector:

Working just fine now:


What was it doing before? My 99' Prerunner is having an issue where the fuel gage arm sits right above E at all times.

btw..... sweet build dude!

 

My gauge started randomly fluctuating and eventually stopped working all together. Your issue might be related to the actual sending unit. It uses a wiper switch and can get corroded over time. Either way, you probably have to open up the tank to see.

 

Does your low fuel light work? Ive been digging for some answers and have seen several troubleshooting methods that people are saying to disconnect the connector on top of the fuel tank and ground the yellow with black striped wire and ground it, then turn the ignition to see if the low fuel light comes on. Is this what you did?

 

My truck is not equipped with a low fuel light. The sender in the tank only had 2 wires. I believe I could replace the sender with one from a newer vehicle with 3 wires and it would work.

 

Adjusted my valves today. Cylinder 4 at the back really kicked my ass. I basically had to do it blind and hope I got the little prop tool in the correct spot. It took me at least an hour just to get that last one.

I used these tools
Valve Tool: https://amzn.to/3S7ISrP
Feeler Gauges: https://amzn.to/3IdyDgW
Magnet: Pick set: Valve Tool: https://amzn.to/3KjnBJL

Also I had a digital caliper so I could measure the old shims

I replaced the valve cover bolts and "grommets" with new ones since I managed to snap 4 of the original ones the last time I had the cover off. Torque them to 53 in-lbs
Bolt Flange 90080-10327 (10)
Washer Seal 90210-07001 (10)

 

Swapped out the water pump, thermostat, and flushed the coolant today. Toyota has the best designers...

 

Looks like a shlong














Seriously though, how difficult was it to that job?

 

It's not bad, just have to unbolt things. I think the hardest thing is getting the fan clutch off since you have to use a wrench (socket won't fit). I also degreased the whole front of the engine before I pulled the old one out so that I wouldn't get any nastiness in there. I followed this write up, even though its not a tacoma. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/60-t-100-forum/381578-3rzfe-water-pump-replacement.html

 

Great reference!

 

So after swapping the thermostat, water pump, and flushing the coolant, my truck operates around 185 degrees. Prior to this, it was running around 194. To me that is a big difference. I'm not sure if it was the coolant or thermostat that did it, but almost 10 degrees cooler sounds a lot better. The water pump I pulled out had no issues, I was just replacing it to fix a leaky gasket.

To flush the coolant I drained the radiator, then the block, then removed the water pump. This got almost all of the old coolant out. Once everything was back together I filled it completely with distilled water and ran it up to temp with the heater on. I then drained the radiator and got about half the capacity of the system out (4qt). I then added Toyota Long Life (red stuff) and ran it up to temp again.

 

haha not that I'm aware of...

 

Swapped out my steering rack guide for the updated version. It seems to have eliminated a slight wobble I had in the steering wheel.
I followed Timmy's video on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4Hhl225E8A

I got a 5/8-11 coupler to use on the new cap, but it was too small. All of the coupling nuts I could find were smaller hex size than an actual 5/8 bolt. So I ended up getting a 5/8-11 bolt and torquing 2 nuts together on the end of it. This worked out ok, but a coupling nut would have been easier. I suggest you go looking for one with the actual cap in hand so you can test fit them.

Here are the parts you need:
Guide 45504-35031
Housing Assembly Spring 90501-26074
Housing Assembly Cap 45524-37010
Housing Assembly Nut 90179-48003

 

Installed some 4crawler shackles!