anothernord's JDM 1KZ-TE diesel swap (2001 Tacoma 3.4)

Yes. before I installed my 4.7 and engine harness, I added the extra wires for the multi mode case. In the video, you can see the mess of wires. I cleaned it up a bit before installing.


One thing to note is this: If you want the J-shift multi mode case, (99-00) and plan on running the 01+ electric ADD motor, you will need to run a pair of relays to control the ADD. The 99-00 are the last of the vacuum motors, and the J-shift tcase wont play nice with the 01-02 multi mode ECU... Trust me... I spent a lot of time on this. I can help you if you decide you want to go this route.

 

Excellent. I'll keep this in mind.

Using a USDM j-shift knob, the following things happen in the various positions:

"H2" is actually H4L (front driveshaft engaged, center diff locked)
"H4" is basically AWD mode
N and L4 work as you'd expect.

I'm basically going to wire a push button switch to activate the ADD actuator manually. That way, I can have:

- 4WD (locked center, engaged ADD)
- AWD - (unlocked center, engaged ADD)
- N (neutral, duh)
- 4L (locked center, engaged ADD, low range)
- 2L (locked center, disengaged ADD, low range)
- NWD (No Wheel Drive, disengaged ADD, unlocked center diff, my favorite anti-theft mod)


Ok, here's some updates:

I installed my front mount after finding that the stock top mount had a leak somewhere in it.

I've got a stock air filter box on order to replace the stupid cone filter.

*first picture stolen from my previous 5VZ turbo build*



IAT sensor (intake air temperature)


I also cut/welded the shifter to shorten and change it's angle so the weird positions the JDM shifter sit in don't rip the leather boot out:

 

So, where is your 2wd? The 01-02 4runners use the 4wd button on the side of the shifter for 2/4wd engagement, the button on the dash locks and unlocks the center diff, and then you have your H-N-L manual shift.

The 99-00 4runners use the 4wd button to engage AWD. Pulling the shifter back overrides the 4wd button and locks the Center Diff.

You can wire in a switch and relay to the 4wd switch on the tcase to allow the extra functions you are describing. This is also.my plan. However, with the 4wd switch bypassed you will still have AWD Lo... Not that you would need it...

Inca draw you a diagram of needed.

 

See that's where this t-case is an anomaly. There's no electric actuator on the back like the 4runner multi-mode t-cases, nor are there provisions for one. So there's no true 2wd mode: where the front driveshaft is disengaged. Sort-of like a Land Cruiser, which have full-time 4WD (aka AWD, aka 4Hi unlocked or whatever you want to call it)

What I do to run "2WD" is just just put the t-case in the 4wd locked position (center diff locked), and de-activate the ADD. So the front driveshaft is still spinning, which isn't ideal, but it's technically 2WD.

 

Yesterday I built the battery tray for the secondary battery. It's just a bunch of 1.25" angle iron that attaches in 4 different spots. I'll get it wired up and installed later and upload some pictures of that.




I also installed and plumbed in a factory airbox. I like the factory look as well as the idea of better filtration and resistance to getting water in.




Here's my torque converter lock circuit. One relay switches 12v power to the lockup solenoid, thus locking the torque converter, and the other relay overrides the feature if the brake pedal is pressed.


I also installed a manual boost controller. It's a piece made by a local Colorado company, Circuit Seven. It seems like good quality.

 

Looks nearly factory. Well done.

 

Thank you!

 

Ok TW-ers, I need help.

I've been trying to figure out why turning the A/C on causes the truck to kick down into 2nd gear (automatic). Yea, it's a crazy problem.

What I know:
- There's 2 connections to the ECU for the AC. "AC1" and "ACT" I have disconnected these entirely from the ECU and the problem still happens.
- Doesn't make a difference if the compressor is even connected or not. Still goes down to 2nd gear
- "SL2" is the wire in question here. Whenever the A/C is actually active (i.e. compressor supposed to running, regardless of whether the compressor is spinning (see above), this wire is hot and therefore you get 2nd gear.
- I can measure 100 ohms between SL2 and AC1 on the a/c control module during the problem.

Anyone had something totally strange happen like this?

 

So what's the deal with these unicorn tcases? Would one of these work with a 03 5vz?

 

Yes, it will bolt up, however there is a fair bit of wiring, and you will have to have your front driveshaft lengthened, and the rear shortened.

 

Interesting...

 

Awesome build

 

Ha

This been going on the entire time since it started running? Or did it just start? If you unplug the connector at the AC module does it persist? I would inspect every terminal related on the AC control module to the Engine ECU for shorts possibly a wire partially broke and is shorting into another terminal?

 

Yep, it has never worked correctly with the new engine.

I did find something odd that could be related. With the shifter in the "L" position, the transmission does all kinds of weird things. It kinda stays in first gear but will occasionally shift really hard into 2nd. I'll have to check the L and 2 switch wires to the ECU...

 

Finished my switch panel. The "ADD LOCK" switch manual engages the ADD actuator to allow 4WD or AWD.

 

Did you ever figure out your tranny problem

 

Oh yeah, I did. The wires that go to the ECU for L and 2 were hooked up to... something else. I don't know what but I fixed it and it works great!

 

Awesome glad to hear

 

Well I finally took a couple videos: The first one is just shows the engine and exhaust sound, the second is shows a cold start and bit of reving from idle, so you can get an idea of the sound, which is awesome

I'll definitely post one up of gettin' on it a little too