Pathetic low end torque

It's just a damn fun truck.

 

Yeah, but you just did it, meaning you modded to your liking, instead of coming here and bitching and whining about it right? My comments are aimed at the ones who continuously whine about power and torque and shift points and and and...

 

Haha yeah you're right. I definitely did just go out on a limb and start doing stuff, and have been posting results ever since! In case this isn't painfully obvious already, I do my absolute best to get you guys honest reviews of all the stuff I've used. It's all from first hand experience because I know that building an off-road race truck is going to take me to places with mods that a lot of people wouldn't even consider, so I can share what's effective and what's not!

 

I will say that the small Toyotas have never been known for their power. The HP and Torque pissing contests have usually been kept within the big 3. When you start to squeeze more and more power out of a smaller package you risk long term reliability and dependability. Toyota has stayed away from that in their trucks. And no, I have gotten banned for non-inflammatory posts. I posted an article about the Tacoma having the lowest quality rankings of mid-size trucks and my only quote was "Don't shoot the messenger" and I got banned for a week.

 

Shootz need more TQ?


I mean, when I tow I use my AC6000CW. 6,000-horsepower and measly 188,000 lbf

 

Wings man, because they have wings, front to back, and side to side. You may be letting your Alpine play, and bumping that shit from NWA, but they got wings and that makes them faster.

 

Wingz n thingz

 

The current, fourth-generation Indycars are 2.2-liter twin turbo V-6's and they are limited to 12,000 rpm.
They use a fuel that is a blend of about 98 percent ethanol and 2 percent denaturant. The octane rating of that fuel is around 115.

So, take your Tacoma, slap on a twin turbo, put some parts in it to get it to hold together to 12K rpm and run some ethanol. Should only cost you 2X of what the truck costs lol. Don't want to do that? Then drive it stock like the rest of us and be happy.

 

Oh, I remember that thread. Another 3rd gen troll thread. Folks often get banned in those.

 

Or pursue a more sane path to more horsepower/performance. There's plenty of ways to make this truck faster that cost less than that if you know where to look

 

I'm happy with it. I was being sarcastic. But I do have the ov tune package en route

 

Of course there is. It's going to cost you about $500 or so to get 5% gains. It's going to cost you about $1K to get 10% gains. It's going to cost you about $6K to get 20-25% gains. It's going to cost you about 15-$20K to get 50% gains. It's going to cost you about $50K to get 100% gains, if you do it right.

My point is, where is "good?" 5% is like 10hp and a few lb ft of torque. Is it worth $500? Can you even feel it in those legendary butt dynos? Is 10-20HP and 15 lb ft of torque "good enough?" For around $1K?

The only reason I even post about crap like this is I have lived it. Back in the day we did the same stuff and the only difference was how we accomplished it. From experience I know that adding 10% to total output is not hardly noticeable. Oh, the people who will get it done will rave about it, because they just spent big bucks and it has to be better right? From experience, you need about a 20-25% increase in your base power to really notice it and that is the threshold that changes things. Well, for this truck we are talking about a supercharger to get there, plus a few other parts. 20% is a sweet spot, not 5% or even 10%. Now, here's the big secret: Right now, with no tune, you can make up to 10% more power. Just start running 91 or 93 octane. That's it. Even though we all know that octane itself does not add power, the timing changes that the truck will eventually make (several tankfuls of higher octane) will give you that extra power! That's all it takes. You of course have to pay more for the fuel, and you have to continue running that fuel but that's the easiest and cheapest way to up to 10% of your base power.

 

What are your sources on this? I agreed with your entire statement until this point, I am just curious to see the study that actually PROVES this. No offense.

 

in for answer as well. anytime it's been asked, the response
I've see is always "running 91/93 in this truck does nothing".

 

Most people getting tunes( at least me) aren't looking for extra power(though it's nice) I want refinement in said power, especially when it comes to turd gen

 

My Truck is a Work Truck first and foremost.

 

Here is a good simple article on the basics and generalities http://www.caranddriver.com/features/regular-or-premium and I will have to go find the one specifically for Toyota. I can guarantee you with a high probability that this engine does the same thing as the 4.0 in the 4Runner and the 4.6 in the LC. Most modern vehicles are equipped to do this.

Now, a caveat: The Toyota articles I read (specifically for the 4.6 LC I believe) say that, with Toyota, it takes a fair amount of time before the timing fully changes. Meaning, several premium tankfuls before you have that additional power. It will eventually give you between 5-10% more power at the crank. Now the bad news: right now 91 is about $0.35 more than 87 octane in my neck of the woods. If you drive 15K/yr like the average guy, it will cost you around $275 more (20 mpg avg) per year. Is it worth it? Not for me, no. Why? Because I (and you, depending on where you live) have experienced this already!

Cold Air HP:

For every 10- to 11-degree Fahrenheit rise in intake air temperature past 77 degrees, (SAE J1349 standard test correction temperature), you can expect engine horsepower to decrease by about one percent at the same barometric pressure. That works out to a 6.80-percent increase in horsepower for every 1-psi rise in barometric pressure, and a 6.8-percent drop in horsepower for every 1-psi under 14.7 (ambient sea level)
Credit: SAE

Dynojet's rule of thumb is that a 1% increase in power occurs for every 10 degrees F cooler. So, If it's 90 degrees in the summer and 40 degrees in the winter, there's 5% right there. That's around 14hp! Back in December I was near Miami in my 4Runner. Temps were close to 90. I drove back that evening and night to temps in the high teens. So in 17 hours I GAINED around 19hp. Was it noticeable? Sure. Was it amazing and did it feel like unicorn hair and smell like rainbows? Um, no. Yes it's noticeable to me as an engineer but to a normal person I doubt it seriously. It's just not that big of deal. Now, this all happened because, even though I came up almost 3000" in elevation, the barometric pressure was about the same as where I left in Florida. If it followed the normal rules of elevation, it would have been a push.

To summarize, running a higher octane will eventually net you a small percentage increase in HP. HOWEVER, cold air (NOT CAI lol) could net you the same percentage increase. Also, if you live at 7000' in Colorado, a drive down to gulf coast will net you the same percentage increase in HP.

Basically, if you ran 93 octane and lived at the coast in below freezing temps your Tacoma will then have about 300 hp lol with no mods. Hope this helps.

 

I think it's cute when people in flordia cite elevation changes in inches to make it seem like that 250' elevation change is impressive!!

 

Yep. I came up 3000' and lost 70 degrees lol.

 

I had a 4Runner for only about one year back in 1991. I am an old geezer! I believe I recall that the manual to that vehicle said that you could run it with either premium or regular gas, and that if you ran it with premium your horse power increased by 5%. It sounded like BS to me then, and kind of does now. I do not know the answer, but when I bought my 2017 Tacoma the dealership told me that it made no difference and that it was a waste of money to run premium fuel.