How do those 4cylinder Tacos run?

I test drove a auto 4-cly before buying my manual version, really liked the automatic, it pairs up well with the 2.7L.
If I had to do it again, considering the amount of urban driving and beach driving I do, I might of gone w/ the automatic.

 

Does anyone have a graph or table comparing the torque curves of the 2.7 vs the 3.5? I've had no luck on the Google machine.

 

I'm too lazy to read all 6 pages, but the 2.7 auto is perfect if your kid is in high school or college and isn't going to be towing shit.

My first truck was a '94 Ford Ranger (4.0L V6, auto) and it definitely has more torque than my 2015 Tacoma (2.7 I4, manual), but it's only noticeable when towing a boat or trying to do doughnuts. I test drove a couple automatic tacomas when I shopping and they're pretty close.

I got my license in in 2001 and my parents still own the Ranger with 90k on the odometer, so I can honestly say that my 4 cyl Tacoma has MUCH better road manners and out performs the Ranger in most situations.

 

I'd like to know if it ends up fitting the same, LC Engineering can't confirm if there were any changes to the 2017 engine.

 

I haven't found any direct comparison graphs, but here's an example of each:


Moe's 2016 4-cly manual, via traditional dynojet (e.g. tires on dyno rollers)
Factory stats @ the crank = 159 hp @ 5,200 rpm, 180 lb-ft @ 3,800 rpm.
Loss % = 14.7hp %, 13.6tq %


A 2016 V6 manual, Dynapack dyno, measured at hubs.
Factory stats @ the crank = 278 hp @ 6,000 rpm, 265 lb-ft @ 4,600 rpm.
I couldn't find the actual dyno #'s for this one, but usually the overall numbers will be a bit higher.

 

Thank you sir. I wanted to compare the torque curves. Looks like the 3.5 leads it by 50 ft lbs all the way.

 

I bought the 2016 4 cyl 4x4 access cab MT Tacoma not long ago. I test drove the auto and the manual. I went with the manual and let me preface that by saying it's the first manual I've ever bought (and not the first manual I've ever driven). The first gear and fifth gear sold it for me. First gear is short but great under load and fifth gear revs so low and makes long distance trips economical and quiet!

The auto would be a good choice if you're doing light towing occasionally or none at all. It will get going a bit faster from a standstill since you don't have to derp around with the clutch, etc and is simpler to drive. However I fear that it may not be as good for towing since you're at the mercy of the computer.

I moved 800km from home and stuffed my taco to the tits and noticed fairly minimal difference on flat ground. Going up steep hills I geared down to maintain high torque, but that's the advantage of having control of your gears.

 

Do not hesitate, it fits perfectly. Just put mine on today, no issues at all.

 

Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you!

What is your impression of it compared to stock?

 

Couldn't tell much, as I only ran a short errand since the install.

From what I understand, it takes a few long trips for the ECU to adjust to it.

The truck stalled the instant I started it back up, but then all was well. The idle also seems a little rough, so it surely needs more driving around before any assessment can be made.

 

Depends on your comments IMO. I live ina. Rural area where a lot of my commute is long state roads with speed limits near 45-55 and it putts along very well. The lower rear in gear ratio in the 4cyl has more than enough get up and go in town or slower speed limits. It just doesn't have the power on the freeway, I have the auto with 265 75s and it constantly downshifting on the slightest incline. I recently bought the LCE header and am waiting for it to get here, hopefully it will help.
Mpg with mixed driving ~19-20
Mpg going 80 to an interview two hours away, ~15 due to running 4K rpm for most of the drive.

Stock 245s was less of an issue. I didn't notice a significant loss of power in town with 265s, just freeway.

 

How do you 4 cylinder Manual guys deal with angry impatient auto drivers beeping, flashing and passing you from red lights and stops.

 

Hasn't happened to me once in 30k+ miles.

 

Roll back and let your trailer ball kiss there front bumper , that will give them something to worry about. Or better yet , slip it in reverse and give um some back up light. Lol

 

Newp, can't say that I ever had that happen. It may take me a second to get it into gear, but I can usually out accelerate most minivans and economy sedans.

The much more annoying thing is the need for most automatic drivers to try stopping inside my lower colon at the bottom of most hills.

 

My impressions with the 5MT w/ LCE Header. Butt-O-Meter and such ...

I've put a good 350-400 miles on it, and I have to say the differences are very slight. I would bet the average driver wouldn't even be able to tell the difference, but since forum folk tend to be hyper aware of subtle changes in their vehicles I will elaborate.

2nd, 3rd and 4th gears seem to do a bit better, especially on a downshift to 2nd with acceleration/passing in mind. It doesn't put me back into my seat any more than it did, but the acceleration seems more constant. It is almost as if I had the slightest of flat spots before, that I wasn't really noticing. 1st and 5th gears are pretty extreme to begin with, so to me they seem unchanged.

I take a hilly 6 mile stretch on route 663 to get to the turnpike every day, and previously my trip mpg ALWAYS read < or = to 16mpg depending how I drive. That section has been bumped up to about 18mpg since the install, every day like clockwork. On the hwy, don't notice much of a mpg difference.

The exhaust note is the same to me, but I do notice in 2nd gear that it takes much less pedal to get it to bark a little.

I'd still do it again. $400 is a lot to spend for such a small increase (dyno proven, yada ... ), but not having to anticipate a few of those hills on 663 anymore makes it worth at least that.

TL;DR version:

Acceleration seems better (not more, just better/smoother).

Some slight to moderate inclines will be taken off your radar ... as the truck will definitely improve in this regard, but the grade range this is noticeable will be quite narrow. IMHO.

Exhaust note is the same, but seems more responsive to the throttle.

 

A few thousand miles and it seems to be a bit stronger now. Nothing crazy, but I'm pretty convinced it made a significant enough difference over stock. Seems that it's just a waiting game after install for the ECU to figure out how to handle it.

 

I have the 2.7 I4 motor. Had my doubts after coming from the V6 Tacoma but after some trial and error I have mastered driving my Tacoma with the small I4. The trick is to lockout the 6th OD and use the "S" (sport) function on the transmission. I drive almost entirely in the "S" function. When you are doing city or a lot of stop and go using the S4 position gives lots of power and get up to about 45mph or around 2K rpm. If driving limited city or stop and go I use the S5 spot up to 55-60mpg with the rpms still in the 2K range. I pretty much only use the full "D" function for interstate or highway driving with little stop and go traffic.

 

^^ I do the same. ^^

 

2wd 4cyl 2017