How To: Replacing Carrier Bearing

Question for anyone who has replaced this bearing. I have been having an odd vibration at about 60mph as well and also as I'm slowing down coming to a stop. Just to tonight a u joint started making some god awful noise and while looking up u joint stuff, I got side tracked on this bearing and now I'm thinking I may as well replace it since the drive shaft will be down anyway. So on to my question.
I will be doing probably ALL the u joints (having decided all or just the one that's bad yet) and the bearing by myself.... alone.... Just lil ol me..... I don't have impact tools or even a vice, but I've got everything else. I'm thinking before I start working I'll lock it in 4x4, pop the bolts near the bearing and hang the drive shaft with a bungee cord. Couldn't I break that nut loose while still connected to the tranny? Like I said, I'll be by myself and looking for an easier way to manage.
Also.... if I get fed up with it and say F-it, I can throw my drive shaft in the bed and use the 4x4 like a front wheel drive to take it to a shop 2 miles away righf?

 

Mudflat

I'm in the middle of doing this myself. To remove that center staked not obviously first unstake it. Then on two consecutive holes of the flange run a 7/16 grade 8 bolt(found at Lowes) with a nut at each side of the flange to lock the bolt in place. 2 1/2 inch bolt is good. So you have two bolts there on the flange with heads toward rear. Now take a pipe or ratchet or wrench, whatever and lay it as a fulcrum with one bolt above and the other below. Now take your socket wrench(24mm) and take of the nut. I will do the same when replacing but just flip the fulcrum bar around.

So I have an urgent question as I am in the middle of the job now. Is it alright for the flange/yolk that slips on the spline just behind the CSB to have a slight wobble or should it be extremely tight?

 

Subbing for future use.

 

It's ok.

 

Anyone use a precision brand bearing. I got the premium level one from Oriley for $87. More than the Timkin on Amazon $73 but Oriley has been good to me on replacing stuff years later that has broken.

 

Just did this for the second time on my truck in the past year because of a sloppy transmission mount. The extra movement of the transmission wore out the rubber around the bearing very quickly. I would recommend for those with high mileage such as mine (250k) to also do the transmission mount and probably motor mounts as well to save you from doing this again. With that being said I saw some questions about this and wanted to state that I did leave my driveshaft connected to my transmission the second time. Made it a little easier and I think it saved me quite a bit of time.

 

Just did this the other day and like mackbeezy160 suggested I did both the carrier bearing and tranny mount at the same time. I used this youtube video if anyone else wants to bust this out. Just don't forget to add the washer that goes with the main nut on the carrier bearing like the guy in the video does.
https://youtu.be/Ghyoacp7E1E

 

yes middle of doing mine and left driveshaft attached to transmision and rear shaft attached to diff. Made removing the 24mm nut easy. Put it in 4 low and pull ebrake.

 

Replaced my saggy bearing but still had vibes under load. Tested at standstill with break held and in drive and had the shudder. Ended up putting new plugs and wires and it solved my trucks problem.

 

Sub'd

 

I think i might hold the award for the most wasted carrier bearing
This was the condition of it from the previous owner. About 3 inches of play.
New one is in and much more smooth with no vibrations

 

Any of you guys have luck with this one?

$27 Coast To Coast HB26 Hanger Bearing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001SQQ1UI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8

 

The price alone scares me, you can't even get decent skateboard bearings for $20

 

Thats good to hear. I saw a Youtube video of the replacement, and the poster also just slid the flange off. In case, I do have a jaw puller, but I need that 24mm socket! Mine has 171,000+ and has been bad or awhile. I also need new front tires too, but first things first

 

Thanks for the detailed write up and part number, I changed mine yesterday and torqued to spec thanks to you

 

Just replaced mine today super easy. Done it a couple times. Good to know the Dorman one comes with a Koyo Japan bearing and only $50

 

Hey y'all! Did this job yesterday as well as rear u joints! Everything went accordingly EXCEPT the paint marks to line everything up all rubbed off while we were manhandling everything. How big of a problem is it if all of the flanges are not in line with where they started? Thanks!

 

I always put small indentation or scratch in flanges for orientation, won't wash away on ya just don't over do it

 

Waiting on my SKF bearing, and I will be doing this job. I'm assuming my bearing will come off in two pieces since it doesn't look like the rubber portion is connected to the bearing at all.

 

Cheap Advance Auto bushing developed excessive play within about 5000 miles. This time it's going to be Timken, and I will also replace trans mount. Summit has two #'s: HB26 and HB 31. Truck is 2000 3.4 Access Cab TRD Off Road manual. Anyone know which # to order? If it helps, the rear driveshaft has 3 u-joints.
tia, 4toys