Extra bolt, timing belt/water pump reassembly help

Haha well shoot what do I do?

I really don't want to drain all that coolant again!

 

To be honest, I never reapplied thread locker when I changed mined either. There was enough residual thread locker remaining on the bolts, so I just cleaned the grime off and put them back. There was enough thread locker remaining, that I could not finger-tighten them all the way. Right or wrong, it is what I did. No issues in 75k miles. I did torque everything correctly though. You will probably be okay, OP.

 

Sweet, then I'm gonna let it ride! Thanks for the help! My next project is new brake rotors and pads

 

not sure but I believe you're 1 tooth off on the crank. My balancer rests on 5 degrees. (Even though it shows TDC inside on the crank marks)
You didn't show a pic of your crank and how it lined up to the white mark, I usually do my rotation before putting it back together after pulling the pin at that point.

Does it feel down on power? It would have retarded cam timing.


EDIT: I take that back, yours looks to have a pointer of sorts that lines up and I do a lot of Toyota belts so maybe I'm mixed up on which ones do what, Thing is though, to put the bolt back in the crank WITHOUT the balancer and do your rotations, so you can check ALL points on the toothed pulleys and that they line up. Keep in mind you lose the white mark reference as soon as you make a rotation. The teeth and notches are not an equal number.

 

I have a large spacer that I use so I can tighten the crank bolt and turn it with the balancer off. I only rotate once it is tensioned as well. Before you pulled the pin did you have the slack side of the belt by the tensioner? Could be out if you didn't have the slack in the right spot. Sometimes you have to slightly advance the crank and retard the cams to get the belt on with the slack in the right spot.

I'm sure this is redundant because it's back together and on the road.

 

yea, if you rotated once before pulling pin it's a pretty sure bet you jumped a tooth. They will run fine as far as smooth but power will be down.

 

The first time I screwed up and rotated the crank before I released the harmonic tensioner, so yeah it threw everything off. I redid everything and offset the cams slightly so that when the harmonic tensioner was released it shifted my cams till they were on target

 

always torque to spec, loctite blue is cheap insurance