'03 Prerunner 4WU 3link up-date

Yes sir.
Been a while since I've up-dated but in the end, 3 turns inward on the PS did the trick.

I know you're busy but I'll send you a PM.

 

I was able to install the DS bump bracket & bump. Turned out great. I'll get the PS on next Sunday.
The Total Chaos brackets are nice. The can is a tight fit for the bump itself. I used a circular flapper disc/ wheel and made the inside diameter a bit more accepting of the bump. Still a snug fit but it's in there.

Here is before:


After:

 

Damn I'm jelous of you guys out west, it must be nice working on something that isn't a rusty cluster fuck!

 

That's the primary reason why I moved to the southwest.

Ritchie, those look great!

 

Thanks Os...
I need to add material to the strike plate to insure 100% of the bumps hit properly.
I didn't have time to do the PS on Sunday. I should have it and the added material to both complete this Sunday.

 

Up-date:
Yesterday, I was able to install the PS bump and bracket, add material to both strike pads and re-locate the PS lower link limit strap tab.
I had the truck 4 wheel aligned and learned the WB was off. The rear is perfect which gave the guys a good starting point. All good now.

The wheelbase on the DS is @ 106", the PS is 106.1". Caster is now set as is the toe. Specs are from 82-83 Toyota pickup. This should be it for steering.

Next weekend, I hope to install the King bumps up front.

More to follow.

 

Been a while but here is an update:

Yesterday, I pulled the steering column apart, welded the steering shaft slip and reinstalled. I then backed out the 'Yoda' box adjustment 1 half turn.
Hindsight is 20/20 but damn, I should've done that prior to doing the SAS. The damn slip was very loose, snug now and the steering response is awesome.

For all of you out there merely thinking about doing the slip joint 'mod', do it before you do anything else. Truly a fast & easy project and makes a world of difference and may eliminate questionable headaches going through your build. I've been chasing slop for a while now, even before the SAS but no more.

Next project, front bump can replacement and new bumps. That should wind up the build portion with the exception of a bit of tinkering.

Thanks for tuning in.

 

I installed a BudBuilt trac bar on Thursday, along with re-working my exhaust.
I highly recommend this item for those with aftermarket leafs. All axle wrap is eliminated.

 

As I am a regular cab, I had to remove 10" from each of the end links at the rear. This resulted in elongating the upper elongated hole down 1/2" to accommodate the shorter upper bar end.
Simple install and works so damn well.

For those with aftermarket leafs, make this item a priority.

 

Looks great! Next time I come by you'll have to take my truck out for a drive. I don't think I have any axle wrap but it seems so common on our trucks.

 

Looks really great man; super clean looking even though you had to modify it. This will give you extra insurance also in case you add more powa' to that engine in the future.

That's interesting. I was having this conversation with Ritchie off line the other day. I have never experienced axle wrap. It seems to be more of an issue if you have super soft springs and/or a lot of hp/torque. I think Ritchie's problem is that his rear springs are really soft, probably more than other springs.

 

Yeah, it seems the soft leafs are the issue or it's a coincidence. I've not heard of guys running expedition type leafs having the axle wrap issue.

One thing for sure, this little gem cured my issues.

 

Ah, that makes more sense then. I'm running OME Dakar rear leaf packs which are pretty stiff unless loaded.

 

Been a while since I've updated but... the build portion is complete.
I moved the PS shock tower and bump bracket & mount forward 1" to mirror the DS. This required a modification to the bump bracket. The DS lower link bracket was moved forward 3/8" and rotated inward 13 degrees. Both turned out great. Everything flexes well, no binding and equal link movement throughout the axis. It really drives great. The adjusted wheelbase is 105.5" on the DS and 105.7 for the PS. I was told that the added .2" on the PS is for the crown in the road and will keep the truck from wandering. Whatever the reason, it drives true.
I replaced the radiator as it had a small crack on the lower tank. Not sure when/ how that happened as I've only been out once in 21 months. Afterwards, I built a front skid to protect the lower section of the radiator. It's a bit longer than I want but it'll do.

Here are some flex pics which are long overdue. Offline, Oz mentioned I may need softer leafs which appears to be the case. The Deavers still have arch in them and the Fox shocks have 3-4" of shaft remaining. Also, the stuffed PS has 3" of up travel remaining.

Questions, comments and suggestions are welcomed. Thanks for tuning in.

 

Sick AF!

Doesn't look like the rear is doing much though

 

Bad ass. Clean looking rig! I dig the "OE look." It almost looks like the truck came from factory with a solid front axle...which is the way they should all be Great attention to detail on that build.

The rear springs seem to be the limiting factor now. Maybe they'll loosen up after they stretch out on some trails.

 

Thanks Diablo & Oz.
The leafs seem to be the limiting factor. I'll repeat the flex process and check to see if the HEIM on the trac bar is maxxed out or not, limiting the flex but I doubt that's the issue.

If I need to replace the leafs, I'll do it instead of removing leafs from this set.

Thanks for watching.

 

Removing leafs can work if you have the time/patience to tweak them a few times. I went through this with an older pack I had with my IFS. Could never find a good balance between flex and softness/stiffness by adding/removing leafs

Chevy 63" swap is common. Cheap and easy. However, it seems like guys have to go back and forward removing/adding leafs because chevy's tend to be either too stiff or too soft as they are.

Ironically, I eventually ended up with brand new 3" leaf packs from Allpro, which were surprisingly well balanced and still allowed me to carry a decent amount of weight on the bed. Got rid off them for the SAS and got TG 5" springs which seem to look and behave exactly like the Allpro ones.

No matter what you do, however, having leaf springs in the rear will probably always be a limiting factor if you have links up front. The rear will always have a harder time keeping with the front.

 

I’m just noticing the license plate now

 

... and again, been a while since I've updated things.
I learned that the trac bar HEIM did not allow enough rotation. I replaced it with a larger piece and a pair of mis-alignment spacers, that fixed that. I haven't flexed it yet but it will work.
I added a pair of FOX 12" 2.0 bypass shocks for the rear. I completely removed all parts related to the spare tire carrier, added a 2x2" cross member to mount them behind the axle. The rear is much smoother than before.
I bought a spare mount kit for the bed. Found it on JEG's and is a Tire Gate product. Good quality stuff. The full size spare fits great and I have enough room for my YETI45 cooler between it and the tail gate.
I will re-work the shock mount tabs on the axle this Sunday. I received a pair for a JEEP, only to install them after I'd removed the others without opening the box to check parts first. No big deal.
Did some detail on 4WU's laser cut logo on the pan hard bracket.