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Puller type needed for LBJ swap?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by ThunderOne, Jul 18, 2017.

  1. Jul 18, 2017 at 7:20 AM
    #1
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've heard the "pitman arm puller" is the best tool to remove the lower ball joints. Is that true?

    If so, is there a specific size I need to get? I may end up buying one instead of renting it. Just want to make sure I don't buy the wrong thing.

    Thanks
     
  2. Jul 18, 2017 at 7:32 AM
    #2
    License2Ill

    License2Ill Woke like a Coma Toyota Tacoma

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    It's a dry heat thou, AZ
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    I used the bigger of the two of the two arm puller. I forgot what it was labeled.

    I recommend using anti seize on the threads of the puller. I've ruined one by not...

    And if you're not aware to use the castle nut half threaded off the ball joint threads to capture the threaded part of the puller.
     
  3. Jul 18, 2017 at 7:42 AM
    #3
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So you mean, unscrew the castle nut a bit, put the pitman arm puller over the castle nut and crank it down?
     
  4. Jul 18, 2017 at 8:21 AM
    #4
    jjsul

    jjsul Well-Known Member

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    I take the castle nut all the way off.
     
  5. Jul 18, 2017 at 9:30 AM
    #5
    License2Ill

    License2Ill Woke like a Coma Toyota Tacoma

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    I think I've explained it correctly. It's un-threaded a bit so it "captures" the threaded part of the puller to keep it from walking or slipping off the ball joint stud.
     
  6. Jul 18, 2017 at 9:53 AM
    #6
    NM Lance

    NM Lance Well-Known Member

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    I never could get one of those damned things to work for me. There is a hammer trick for this. I probably can't explain it the best without sketching a picture, but it is definitely on YouTube.
     
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  7. Jul 18, 2017 at 10:28 AM
    #7
    Trapperr

    Trapperr Well-Known Member

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    THIS x100! Save yourself the frustration. It wasn't until the 2nd time I pulled my tie rods from the knuckle that I was smart enough to do this. Works like a dream.
     
  8. Jul 18, 2017 at 10:38 AM
    #8
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    hammer and a ball joint separator fork

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Jul 18, 2017 at 10:49 AM
    #9
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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  10. Jul 18, 2017 at 11:33 AM
    #10
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can see how that would work too. So what's better, this, or the pitman arm puller like shown in the video above?
     
  11. Jul 18, 2017 at 11:49 AM
    #11
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Depends on if you're going to try to keep the lbjs or you're replacing them. A pickle fork can damage them if you don't know what you're getting yourself into - I've read it enough times on here to believe there's at least some kind of learning curve. You can see for yourself how the arm puller is effortless when positioned right. @Timmah!

    I bought one, but personally haven't come across a ball joint that I couldn't separate with my 50/50 mix of acetone and atf and a couple moderate whacks with a hammer, of course I live in a rust-free part of the country.
     
  12. Jul 18, 2017 at 11:58 AM
    #12
    jjsul

    jjsul Well-Known Member

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    I hate using the pickle forks. Put an arm puller works so well.

    I haven't had one slip off before, but I see why seating it in the castle nut / any but would help stabilize it that much more.
     
  13. Jul 18, 2017 at 12:01 PM
    #13
    Broccoli

    Broccoli Well-Known Member

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    Puller will work best, especially if its been on the truck awhile. A good c clamp and some big sockets will work also.
     
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  14. Jul 18, 2017 at 12:22 PM
    #14
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know what size / part # pitman puller I need?
     
  15. Jul 18, 2017 at 12:24 PM
    #15
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    He says it in the video at the beginning - you can buy just the part if you don't want the kit by using the part number if you freeze frame it and search on Amazon.
     
  16. Jul 18, 2017 at 7:54 PM
    #16
    jjsul

    jjsul Well-Known Member

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    Any auto parts store will have some you can rent. Get a whole front end kit, it'll come w a few options for you to use. Then return it for a full refund
     
  17. Jul 18, 2017 at 8:05 PM
    #17
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That's what's I ended up getting. Maybe I'll buy them another time.
     
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  18. Jul 18, 2017 at 8:26 PM
    #18
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    I used a dead blow hammer. Couple swings and out
     
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  19. Jul 18, 2017 at 9:00 PM
    #19
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    I wonder if that works better down in our corner of the country more than the rest of the states. I add some penetrating acetone / atf and they pop right off with a few moderate hits. Lucky for us it doesn't take much to get them separated and we don't have to beat up our trucks like cavemen!
     
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  20. Jul 18, 2017 at 9:06 PM
    #20
    boostedka

    boostedka Well-Known Member

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    Good to point that out. I'm so used to not dealing with rust that I forget the extent that others do. Dead blow has worked well for me on LBJs as well as tie rod ends that had 170k on them.
     
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