Puller type needed for LBJ swap?

I second the dead blow hammer, pickle fork didn't work for shit. wish i knew how easily they would come off with the hammer. 160k on them in so cal so no rust, but still on there. took a few blows and a little bit of denting the metal but nothing horrible. mine were shot and replaced with OEM. time for another 160k+
Think lowrange has a good video on it for the lbj and tie rods. good luck OP

 

I ended up renting the pullers and it was super easy.

 

I just did get the whole OTC kit. BTW avoid "off-name" half-priced pullers, as many of them just bend or break. I think these guys give bad name and itchy feeling for using pullers. Because they are flexing under the tension the screw wonders while it is turning in. That makes you hate using puller and you grab a hammer. Quality ones like OTC make disconnecting stuff effortless. Yes, everything can be fixed with a hammer, but for repair you may need other tools too
Thank you for the tip @Timmah!

 

I used one these, it worked very well

 

I'm a cheater and just use an air hammer. Couple braps and it pops out.

 

Where do you hit - the same place you would with a hammer? The guy that knocked out my lbj's on my 2nd gen hit on the end of the threaded part and they mushroomed out like a mother. Took 2 hours to get them back into good enough shape for the nut to put back on when I took off my front kit.

 

You hit the side of the body of the part the BJ is inside. You don't actually hit any part of the BJ.

Someone listed to use a dead blow hammer, that is incorrect. 2 hefty ball peen hammers. One on the back side resting against the BJ body and one to swing into the BJ body.

I used a puller one time years ago. I have no idea where that tool is. The hammer method works great. The air chisel works the best.

 

I figured as much. I use any hammer - it doesn't take much force once I use some 50/50 acetone / atf penetrating oil. Never used an air hammer so just curious what you could get away with with one.

 

The one time I tried the hammer technique to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle of the lower ball joint at a local Pick and Pull, it didn't work for me. I pounded the shit out of it and it didn't break free. I personally like the puller method because it's worked every time and I don't mash the shit of my suspension and steering components. If you don't plan on using pullers a bunch, renting them from an auto parts store is probably you're smartest option. If you're like me and do a fair amount of wrenching, a kit of pullers is a nice way to go because it's convenient to have them right there in your garage or shop and not have to go to an auto parts store every time hoping nobody else has already rented the puller you need.

The OTC kit I show in the video has served me very well. Here's a link:

$151 OTC 6295 Front End Service Set for Pitman Arms, Ball Joints, and Tie Rods

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Fro...qid=1500563291&sr=1-6&keywords=OTC+puller+kit

 

There's a recall on LBJ. Taking my truck in to dealer for free replacement. Call em

 

I've always smacked the side of the control arm where the lower ballpoint goes through, while also providing some upward pressure with a floorjack on the threads of the ball joint. Not a lot just some. The vibration/shock pops its up and out. Air hammer makes the job even faster.

 

After the video I new I had to have them. Somehow I got lucky because for whatever reason they were out of stock and Amazon gave ma hefty discount (got them for 88 dollars plus California tax). I think guys at SFO airport were scratching their heads why the heck I was traveling to Poland with that.