Another retrofit write up

Moar

 

Primer:

$15 BPR0031 0 Gray Perfect Match Scratch Filler Primer - 8 oz. Aerosol

BPR0031
Black(if you're doing black):

$15 BTY1566 7 Perfect Match Automotive Spray Paint – Toyota Black Metallic, 1G8204202 – 8 oz. Aerosol Can

BTY1566
Clear:

$14 BCL0125 Clear Exact-Match Automotive Top Coat, 8. Fluid_Ounces

BCL0125


While everything dries, I'm gonna go install the "axle dump" exhaust. Bonusss.

 

Call Verizon and leave a nasty gram since it won't upload the photo of the paints and sanding pad.

 

Sub'd. I'm going to live vicariously through your thread until I work up the time to do this myself. Also interested in the setup you purchased.

 

I'll make certain to get you guys a product list WITH numbers at some point soon. Pinky swear

 

Intermission work. All I need now is to roll
Coal and I'll be cool right? After I borrow a tire iron from the dealership tomorrow I'll have the spare out of the way too. Thats it for the night, then the headlight dubachery continues tomorrow

 

So after the primer, I blew them out with air and laid down the first coat of black. This may be incorrect in the paint world, but for this I do not recommend sanding or scuffing after the primer. The only thing you're gonna accomplish there is putting a ton of scratches and swirls in the paint. Also, if you straight up don't care, go to Home Depot and get that dollar black off the floor and spray that shit down. I intend to clear coat these in a day or so and polish everything like you would a body panel (but gently, cause, ya know.. plastic). This is immediately after painting them one at a time and then running them into the house.

 

^^^^

 

Everything is cleared. Going to give it a full 24 hours or more before I polish everything out. I wanna reiterate the compressed air. After everything is black and I went to wipe the parts down, I could actually see the lint all over everything.

 

If you don't plan on polishing everything with compound, I wouldn't recommend using the paint that I did. It does not dry very nice. The clear dries somewhat decent but it has to be polished out. The polishing is pretty easy. Just very time consuming. Painting the way I did will add a few days to the build time for sure.

 

Okay all the paint is done and it is time to assemble. If anyone can drop a link for an extensive write up on MOUNTING the Projector it would be greatly appreciated, and added to this thread as well.

 

Man I was hoping you knew that. Been waiting this whole time for that part lol. I thought they just bolted in with some sort of jam nut

 

well.. you are correct. It fits in there only one way very nicely and does have a jam nut. The order is: mounting plate(that has the three "prongs" that locate the projected in the housing), jam nut, spring, large jam nut to lock everything down. What I am more or less confused on is just how much of the tab to grind away. The video done by SO Motorsports is vague on exactly where the grinding is. In the picture attached you can see that a man can go from good to garbage real fast by taking too much.

 

While I research a little and find a concise explanation of this, i will leave this here

 

This is a solid write up brother. This is going to come in handy since I have to correct a retro sellers product for a buddy of mine. Hope this becomes a sticky in the lighting thread as many could use your motivation.

 

I'm trying to make it sticky worthy. When it's complete I'm going to get off the iPhone and onto the computer and clean everything up, make sure it's free of typos and get it real presentable. Hopefully help some guys out. Goal would be for this to be the ultimate home for retrofit Q and A for second generation guys.

 

Just cut all that shit off with a dremel and sand it smooth with a belt sander or sanding block or something. That will give you a flat surface on the back of the reflector bowl.

 

I cut the large tabs off but left the others. I'm taking it slow because I can't put it back when it's gone. The only thing I can gather from this is to cut them all smooth and hope the projector doesn't rotate.. ever.

 

The next few posts are going to show the order in which everything goes together as well as the tabs to grind off. Go up a few posts and refer to the picture with the pink and purple marking. GRIND THE PURPLE. LEAVE THE PINK!!!!!!!!!!!

Where my fingers are are the only areas that need to be ground off. The lock nut fits INSIDE these grooves.

EDIT: pending correction... please hold...

 

After the lights are ground off, move onto the projectors. Put your shrouds on. If yours are "directional" like the apollo 2.0 shrouds I am using, make sure they go on the right way. They clip on in 5 places. It IS possible to mount them wonky so orient the projector the way it will sit in the light dome and then orient the shroud the way it is supposed to sit on the projector, and push. The shrouds sit perfectly in the projector boxes so that's what I set mine in, if yours don't, maybe try a cup from the kitchen? You are after something that will hold the shroud and allow the projector lense to protrude unobstructed. After that, mix up some JB weld 'kwik'. I used a popsicle stick and toothpicks. Apply some job weld to all of the clips you can safely reach without the risk of getting the jbweld on the lense. I'm not sure what happens but I'm pretty sure if you get any on the lense, you're gonna be shitwrecked.