ramonortiz55 4runner build: La Venenosa - For Sale!

excite my Mojo

 

I'll take those rago panels.

 

nah

 

Stupid expensive tho

 

I was able to obtain a 3rd gen 4runner Rago Fabrication Modular panel for my rear side windows.

These panels will require drilling trim and removing the back cargo panels for proper installation.

I highly recommend:

1. Beer.

2. A friend to help you - This is not a solo job.

3. Time - This is not a job you want to start after work, during the week. You will need at least half a day to install both panels.



You will need a rivnut tool, a drill, a step bit that steps up to at least 3/4" diameter, and 1/8" pilot bit, and a 25/64" drill bit.

The 25/64" drill bit is important since the holes for the rivnuts must be EXACT. I recommend making sure the rivnuts in the packaging are all the same diameter and the drill bit is sized accordingly. There can not be room for error here.



Make sure you have a helper. Even if it is your feline.



First order of business is to remove the rear cargo panels. The first thing to be removed is the hatch floor trim -





Next, remove the top panel where the hatch light is at.



This is done by removing the light cover:



Removing the four screws and the bulb:





Pry the lighting bracket away from the roof trim carefully and pull out the power plug:



at the ends of the roof trim there will be two small brass screws, remove these as well:



Now the top trim can be removed by pulling firmly:





Next we remove cargo cover brackets, removing the visible bolts will release them





The shoulder panel must now be removed (picture was taken before I removed the cargo cover bracket):



To remove the shoulder panel, the door floor trim must be removed, locate two screws and remove the door floor trim by firmly pulling away.



The shoulder trim can now be removed by pulling firmly. No screws are located on the shoulder trim.



The main cargo panel can now be removed. In this case, the passenger side:





We will now locate the TWO outer holes where the trim fasteners push into. In the picture below, you will see four holes below the window. It is the two outer holes.



Pointing at the left and right hole respectively:





Once they have been located - drill out the hole to the size of the rivnut:



Use the step bit to de-burr the holes. We want nice clean holes to set the rivnut:



Test fit and set rivnut:

 

Drink Beer. Pet Cat.

Next:

A pilot hole will be drilled from the BACK end of the trim panel.

Remember where the rivnuts are?

The trim fasteners that were in this location are now obsolete. Remove them from their seats on the back of the panel. Use the center of the fastener seat to create your pilot hole.



Grab the step bit and drill out to 3/4" hole, stopping periodically to check the fitment of the aluminum spacer. You want a nice snug fit. Don't over drill. Be patient.



You can barely see the rim of the fastener seat thru the hole. Use it to make sure you are centered.



Test the spacer for a nice, snug fit.



This is what the back end will look like:



Once the hole in the trim is complete - it will be centered against the rivnuts:



Drill your second hole and install the panel, yes. INSTALL it. Make sure all the fasteners clip in place. Make sure it doesn't wobble. Make sure it is set to STAY. You will see why. This is important.

Install the top brackets on the modular panel:







Install modular panel (top brackets not shown here):



Side view for clarity:



Next make sure your friend is holding the panel to where the brackets are away from the window - I have it about a 1/4" clearance.

Use the slotted holes in the bracket to center the pilot bit, drill thru the trim and mark a location in the metal beyond the trim. This will locate where the rivnut goes.

Next, drill out the trim hole with the step bit in the same manner as mentioned before, drill your hole for the rivnut and set rivnut.

The finished spacer install should look like this:



Once the second location has been drilled and set, the panel can now be installed:





Same installation procedure for the passenger side:



Install goods and enjoy!

 

Sweet write up!

 

okay write up.

 

@HTXtaco3.14 you need a build thread to document your truck

 

Nah luego me la roban

 

Oh.

 

my

 

gosh

 

Ramon, hey man wanted to get your thoughts on this. Looking to purchase it this weekend if everything checks out. What are your thoughts on price and condition? Anything specific I should look for that might be a potential deal breaker? Thanks

https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/cto/d/1997-toyota-4runner-limited/6275897893.html

 

Thats a great price!

Here is what I based my purchase off -

https://www.4runners.com/threads/3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.630/

 

It is a GREAT price, that's what kinda scares me. I'm gonna look it over really well and drive it. If it runs and drives well, my wife said do it. We are wanting a car she can drive for work so she isn't putting hard city miles on hers. Plus thus one will be fun to build up too. Thanks for the link and the help.

 

1. Check for rusty frame.
2. Check for valve cover leak - Feel BEHIND the valve covers for any hidden oil leaks
3. Check the radiator fluid and transmission fluid - It the color is off, DONT Get it (you will see in the link above why)

Those are the top things to look into.

 

Will do. It says the major gaskets were replaced, but I'll definitely check. Thanks again

 

Not a problem.

 

I think I would want to know why the head gaskets were changed.