OBA -> On Board Air Mega Thread & BS

You know how when you put something in a safe place and then you lose it because you forgot where the safe place is?

Yeah, that's me right now.

I got the wiring harness for the ARB fished through the firewall and now I can't find the plug that I insert the wire tabs into so I can connect it to the small wiring harness that connects to the switches.

It would be this plug here as indicated by the red arrow:



So the 69-dollar question is, is ARB pretty good about sending replacement parts? I've already sent them an email.

The other 69-dollar question is, is this pretty much a standard sized connector? Could I find the same thing at Radio Shack or an electronics parts store?

Enquiring minds want to know.

 

Thats a good question...I would hang tight and see what ARB says.

 

And while we are on the subject, is it possible to take the wire leads on the ARB compressor that are designed to connect to the included switch...



And instead connect it to a CH4X4 switch like this?



If so, which wires connect where? I assume that both Black wires on the ARB harness could be connected to the single Black wire on the CH4X4 switch. The "dash light" wires would also connect. But what about the other two?

 

Well 2 of the wires are just to light the switch up...that being said Im not sure as not very good with all this wiring stuff.

 

Alright i first thought it was a bad hose issue. Viair sent me a new hose. So that's out of the equation.

Viair 300p. Hardwired with original cord cut at alligator clips and adapted to fit on battery. Original inline fuse. Turns on and can feel air coming out by using original switch. Only have tried to use with the engine on.

Is there something wrong to where i mounted it? Is there not enough room for the hose to connect correctly or it cant get enough air in to push out?

Ive tried to air up just my mtb wheel and it wont even do that.

Now i have filled a float tube by directly holding it to the compressor with no hose.

Any ideas guys?

 

Sounds like a bad reed valve possibly. Pop the top off the cylinder off and take a look at them.

 

I think you're asking a lot of this fella. If it works without a hose it should work with a hose. Unless we don't have the full story. We need exact details and pics.

This leads me to think he did something wrong, not that the compressor is faulty.

 

**she ...

I stated as much details as i know to. I can go down and take more pics if needed.

Thw compressor runs. Sounds and acts as it did before i hardwired it in.. so i got no clue.

 

https://youtu.be/01evIUkFRaM

 

If I'm not mistaken, the Viair hose is a deflator/inflator with a valve on the end. Not trying to be a smart-ass but are you sure that you've got the valve set correctly?

 

Yes i am. I used the deflation mechanism to deflate my bike tire. Push in and twist deflate. Undo and good to go.

 

Wonder if this is worth as a backup. Costco prices are usually pretty good , it seems most of these are just rebranded. Guessing a compearable one on Amazon would be around 40$ This shows 2 cylinders and claims 1:45" to fill a small passenger car tire from 20 to 32lbs.

 

No!
Edit that's for pumping up basketballs.. Not airing up truck tires. That small passenger tire holds far less air than your truck tire.

 

Had my issue happen this weekend and have emailed ARB about it...

 

I just finished installing my ARB twin without locker solenoid this weekend and the wiring that worked for me are as follow:

• Open up your dash panel under the small cubby hole on the driver side
• Locate the connector leading to the switch for your bed light. You will need to tap into the green and tan wires on this switch. Sorry I just noticed that you have a 2nd gen so instead of the tan wire, yours should be green wire with tan stripe. As for the switch to tap into, use any switch that has illumination.
• With your new CH4x4 switch, tap the black wire into the tan wire and red 2 into the green wire of your bed light switch. This will take care of the power and dimming for your CH4x4 switch
• Out of the 4 wires (dark green, black, purple, yellow) coming from the small connector on the compressor, you will only need the purple and the black wire. Tape off the green and yellow wire for future use if you decide to add the manifold kit with solenoids for air lockers. I see above that you've misplaced your white connector leading from the compressor. At this point I would suggest that you save yourself the $70 and connect your CH4x4 switch directly to the exposed wires without the need of that connector unless you have air lockers and need all three switches. Put the wire loom for the three switches in a safe place for future use if needed.
• Back to your CH4x4 switch, connect the red 1 wire to the purple wire leading to your compressor. Connect the green wire from the switch to any wire producing 12V when ignition is on. I found that the wire producing the strongest current came from my 12v plug inside the center console. I removed the center console and tap into the yellow wire leading to the plug. Removing the center console is very simple, just message me if you need help.
• Ground the black wire coming from your compressor, put everything back and you should be good to go.
• Keep in mind that the compressor runs extremely hot but this normal so use with caution.

Hope this helps!

 

Big Thanks!

I'll give it a try.

 

Did you figure this out?

It looks like the air intake is really close to the carpet. Could that be causing the flow issue?

Sometimes it's the simple things we overlook. Well, for me at least.

 

can only find 36" leader hoses, where is everyone getting longer lines? mounting compressor in the engine bay and air tank behind seats or under the bed

edit.....answered my own question, disregard

 

I know this is a long shot but I'm going to ask anyway.

You know how they make Bars Leak to seal a leaky coolant system from the inside out?

Is there a similar product you can add to an air system that will seal small leaks as well?

 

Best way is to disassemble and seal with teflon or "pipe dope" blue sticky thread sealant